I've been asking this to various car audio stores and half and half of them give me different answers. I've got a 2 channel lanzar amp. It says its maximum power is 2000 W. Also, it has a different options on how to connect it: 2 x 500W RMS at 4 OHMS, and 2 x 1000W at 4 OHMS, and 1 x 2000W at 4 OHMS bridged. Now, I plan on installing this into a Honda Civic 2004, and I know that it won't be able to handle this powerful of an amp. Some stores have told me that all i need is a capacitor, and others have told me that I need both a capacitor AND optima battery. I was wondering if anyone could give me a DEFINITE answer regarding this setup. Thanks.

 

just curious, what size fuse is in the amp and whats the physical size of the amp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untitled0011 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been asking this to various car audio stores and half and half of them give me different answers. I've got a 2 channel lanzar amp. It says its maximum power is 2000 W. Also, it has a different options on how to connect it: 2 x 500W RMS at 4 OHMS, and 2 x 1000W at 4 OHMS, and 1 x 2000W at 4 OHMS bridged. Now, I plan on installing this into a Honda Civic 2004, and I know that it won't be able to handle this powerful of an amp. Some stores have told me that all i need is a capacitor, and others have told me that I need both a capacitor AND optima battery. I was wondering if anyone could give me a DEFINITE answer regarding this setup. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE> It will depend on the draw of the amp. but I will guess that an amp that is rated at 2000 watts will draw a lot of power, that being the case, there is only one fix, and that is to upgrade the alt., anything else is a bandaid, although a cap and upgrade on the batt. is also a good idea, but the cap and or the batt. will not make more power, only a bigger alt. can do that. 94

 

yeah, but there are a lot of amps that SAY 2000 watts, but never come close to putting out that kind of power. knowing the TRUE (not just whats printed on the amp's case) power rating, or at least the fuse size, it would be easier to tell what upgrades are needed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, but there are a lot of amps that SAY 2000 watts, but never come close to putting out that kind of power. knowing the TRUE (not just whats printed on the amp's case) power rating, or at least the fuse size, it would be easier to tell what upgrades are needed</TD></TR></TABLE> I agree, I was assuming he was giving us rateings of a spec sheet, he did say 2x500 watts RMS into 4ohms, that tells me he needs the alt. 94

 

while i don't have the amp with me, and don't know the fuse size, all i can give is the general stats of the amp here. http://carstereoexpo.com/viblan2chanc8.html

i don't know if i want to upgrade my alternator, or if it's really necesary. would it possible to get by just using like a 3 Farad capacitor? if that wouldn't work, would just having an upgraded alternator work without getting a cap. and optima battery? i'm not really familiar with alternators, either, so if you could recommend something that would dish out the juice for this amp, i'd appreciate it, thanks guys.

 

http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=VIBE268

just by looking at the amp, and knowing how the manufacturer rates the power of the amp (....*cough* pyramid *cough*), i think you would be fine with a cap or 2. ....well, actually even with one cap. i would be very surprised if that amp has more than 700 true total actual honest power rms. and im not talking **** about your amp, so i hope youre not too offended , but from what i know about the company and from working with the brands we carry at work (mtx, alpine, bazooka, audiobahn...) thats my opinion....
and i think pyramid still owns them... i dont know, its been a while....

 

well, to be honest, i don't even need as much power as 2x500W RMS (1000W rms), 700 w RMS would actually just be perfect for me, so if that's truly the case, you think just a cap would do? if so, that'd be very relieving to hear. but would a cap handle stop and go traffic? and headlights added?

 

i think you'll be fine with a cap. if you have problems, upgrade the battery. and there are places that rebuild alt.s, as long as they upgrade the regulators you can get more amps out of you orig. alt. i think, that would be the last resort for this amp though, dont think you'll need it......

 

alright, as long as my stock alternator can handle the amp. oh, and i think you asked earlier about the fuse. the manual tells me it's 30Ax2.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untitled0011 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, as long as my stock alternator can handle the amp. oh, and i think you asked earlier about the fuse. the manual tells me it's 30Ax2.</TD></TR></TABLE> What is the output of your alt, 62 amps , 67 amps, lets say its 70 amps

Car manufacturers build in about 10% more then the car would ever use, you can rewind the alt. for about a 10% gain, so lets say you can get 77 amps out of it, and say the car uses about 40 amps, you have an extra 37amps to spare, the amp you have has 2x30 amp fuses, so max draw will be less then 60 amps, but will it be as low as 37 amps max.

The point I am trying to make here is if you draw more amps out of the system then the system can provide you will damage the system, its hard on the batt.,[any batt.] its hard on the cap., and its very hard on the alt.

Like I said, a batt., and a cap is a good thing to add to the stereo system but the will not produce more amps. If you need 100 amps, only a 100 amp alt. can get it for you.

About once a month or so I get someone into my shop who is looking to relpace the alt. in there car because they have burnt the oem one out, this happens way more then you think.
Once in a wile its a real over the head stupid one,[ multi amp system] drawing upwards of 100 amps + just for the stereo, the alt. lasts for a few days to a week or two, but most are smaller systems tha draw 10 to 30 extra amps and the alt. last 6mon. to a year, maybe more, but the the alt. does wear out or the volt/reg blows.

Whatever you end up doing, when it's all done, take the car to a batt. place and have them do a load and grav. check , and check what the draw is when you play the stereo system and have the car running with the lights on, and see if the alt. can keep up. 94




Modified by fcm at 12:43 AM 9/14/2004

 

Oh crap, I hope you're wrong. A month ago I had to replace my alternator because the old one was bad. Paid like 200 bux canadian for a stock one. Now, with adding a sub and a second amp to my system (for a total of 100 amps) I hope you're really wrong Don't wanna see it die after 2 days

 

At 60 amps that amplifier has no chance of reaching 2000W. You'll notice that they have an RMS rating and then a wishfull thinking rating. Lanzar used to have fairly good amps so it surprises me. I think you will be lucky to get 250X2 out of that amp at 4 ohms.

The only way you will tell if you need a new alternator is to go test it. Music is Transient it isn't constant. So current pull from an Alternator will also be transient this is why a capacitor helps. To determine how "hard" or how much power is being dissapated in the capacitor you would need to know the ESR of the capacitor. The lower the ESR the less power gets dissapated inside the cap. Same goes for batteries Stinger has some of the lowest internal resistance batteries made.

Also make sure the rated ESR is taken at least 44 kHz. If the rated value is taken below this frequency the value given is worthless.


Modified by nsxxtreme at 10:12 AM 9/13/2004