I need some advice here. This is my current setup 96 (5th Gen) Accord with a JDM h22a (from JDM Accord SiR Factory rated 190bhp). AUTOMATIC bone stock except for HKS drop in filter and a Apexi V-Afc
My Question is what do it need to do in order for me to acheive 200whp. I have dynoed the car and with the V-AFC tuned i am only getting 128WHP.
Please don't tell me to get a stick. I am going to be getting a h22a1 head port and polish, JUN stage Three cams with retainers and springs, Mugen exhaust and a JUN reprogrammed ECU. I don't think this will be enough what else do i need. I don't want to turbo, supercharge or NOS it. I want an all motor H22a.

Is 200whp realistic? it also has to be my daily driver, decent idle, quite, good fuel consumption.

Any advice is welcomed. Appologies if some of my questions sound stupid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GReddySiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is 200whp realistic? it also has to be my daily driver, decent idle, quite, good fuel consumption.</TD></TR></TABLE>

those two statements don't really go together well.

 

well i want to try to achieve 200whp but the most important thing is the drivability and fuel economy. what would the best mods to get done to get as close as possible to 200whp without affecting idle and fuel economy?

 

Daily driven 200 will be fine. You will need to bump CR to get the best out of the Jun3s. Up to 11.5, should be no probs. You should figure on rising rate FPR as well to feed the JUN profiles.

Get a SMSP header. It will make a world of difference with that setup.

If only you could get hondata.

But yeah, decent idle-it will not be stock on those cams. And good fuel consumption-it will consume lots of fuel real good.

Hope your tranny holds. I also was under the impression that SIR auto was rated at 180.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I also was under the impression that SIR auto was rated at 180. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep it is, which explains his 128whp

 

should i rebuild the tranny? beef it up a little

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMAccord2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep it is, which explains his 128whp </TD></TR></TABLE>

but it is no blue top. i thought that the SiR rated at 180bhp was the K20b or something like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GReddySiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but it is no blue top. i thought that the SiR rated at 180bhp was the K20b or something like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

F20B and jdm H22 autos are both 180. I think your tranny will cost you lotsa green. Level10.

 

dude if you are hitting the rollers at 128whp even with an auto that is freakin pathetic. something is f'd with your motor. a F22 can especially the F22b1s can easily put that kind of power down with simple bolt-ons.

 

are you hitting vtec. When i went to the dyno i made one run without vtec and i still put out like 139 to the wheels.

 

daily driven 200 whp is ****** easy

my friend with a 99 lude has a greddy turbo kit with a spearco intercooler and a custom cat back eshaust, he runs it at 6 psi and hes up around 215-220 whp and its his daily driver, and its ran fine for over a year

 

i know you will loose power with bigger wheels and rotors.with an auto you loose about 20%. these factor effect your whp.

what you can do is get a tb spacer and a bigger tb(or port yours). headers affect how much hp you get (4-1headers)or how much tq you get(4-2-1). also straight pipes help lower the resistance for the exhaust to escape, if you put in a exhaust bypass to redirect the gasses to a pipe that has no muffler or anything you'll gain hp also but loose tq due to the lss of preassure but on the highway you'll have great gas milage and if it is directed the other way you'll stay quite and get good city miles. also underdrive pulleys will help free up some power.

hope this helps

 

he does not want to turbo.

READ ownz Joo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GReddySiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't want to turbo, supercharge or NOS it. I want an all motor H22a. </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

READ ownz Joo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fo' real

 

fyi...rated at 200hp is flywheel, not wheels, not sure if you realize this.....

your losing ALOT of power with the auto tranny...and with the jun/etc upgrades, you would be pushing way past 200whp on a stick.....run a compression test, cause theres no way you should be losing 60ish hp to the drivetrain

 

Compression test back 15, 14.5 14.5 15.5 not sure what it means

 

Where did you get your h22a w/ automatic. I would like 180 hp to the flywheel. All I find are sticks.

 

Well, if he is getting 180 to the crank. 180*.7=126 so he really isn't looking bad. His power numbers seem on point for an auto with p/s and a/c etc.

You are right where you should be now, but some cams would be a good first step.