Well damnit now im thinking...i want a good fresh block as in crank bearing and all that so i was thinking of just buying a rebuilt LS motor and doing all the vtec set-up...im going to make my motor legal i have an ls in there now so i will have a sticker in my door that says B18...but will it say a/b on it i dont know. That why i kinda want to stick with the lsvtec BUT then again im like what cops going to pay attention enough to the leter? Smogging i can deal with...unless i can get the gsr to pass in the rex. I heard its harder to get a car converted to vtec to pass visual with the smog ref. See the difference is i can get a gsr swap 2800-3000 installed at my buddies shop. Im so confused on what to get!! i hear lsR rexes push 13.6-14.0 whats a gsr rex run?

 

I would personally do a LS/vtec. What are you looking to use the car for?

 

ls/vtec...i just finsish droppin the ls/vtec in my crx

 

well just going to be my new age hot rod but for now its also going to be my daily driver. I do go to the road course every once in awhile too. I would do lsvtec no prob i can do it cheap my problem is i like stuff to be reliable so i like the inside of the motor to be new. Like the crank, rods and pistons bearings etc. The head can be stock i dont care. I want the ls vtec with the b16 head because the b16 has so much better of a vtec sound the the 2stage vtec gsr motor. Im afraid to blow it up so i would just like fresh stuff under but it might be too expensive. I've rebuilt chevy motors but i have never done a honda som im scared to mess it up but i know i can save some big money hows ur LsR run???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The head can be stock i dont care. I want the ls vtec with the b16 head because the b16 has so much better of a vtec sound then the 2stage vtec gsr motor. Im afraid to blow it up so i would just like fresh stuff under but it might be too expensive. I've rebuilt chevy motors but i have never done a honda som im scared to mess it up but i know i can save some big money hows ur LsR run???</TD></TR></TABLE>

first off, chevy major . second, YOU major . third, the head needs to be built as well.

to this topic.

 

lsvtec but you better build it right or it wont be reliable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bseriesboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lsvtec but you better build it right or it wont be reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, do your homework man. Make sure you use proper crankshaft, and run proper compression.

Ryan

 

Ok first of all **** smoker i dont appreciate u jumping into my thread and stretching ur nuts to touch my surface. Second The reason i wasnt oing to build the head YET is because i didnt have the money so i cant just go all out on it and kill the bottom end. I would rather get the bottom end up to par then deal with the top end. If you ask me it sounds pretty smart considering the head will only have 30-50k miles so it should be in decent shape. not to mention its built for what its going to be doing..But the other 2 thanks for the tips...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bseriesboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lsvtec but you better build it right or it wont be reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>

What, in your opinion, is "right"? I'm looking at doing ls/vtec also and would like to hear some opinions from people running it. Why is the top end so important to be upgraded, I was under the impression that its the bottom end that can't keep up do is low rev capability and less-than-perfect r/s ratio.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrspeaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Building it right means
at least gsr girdle..
arp bolts..
pr3 pistons..
the block needs the help because of the shitty stroke...
cant rev past 7000 rpm safely without doing what was said...
and if u got the money..balancing is a good idea..
lsvtec is an expensive set-up too do if u wanna do it right the first time...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I understand the purpose for the bottom end, but why is it so important to throw money into the head?

 

i am planning on doin a ls/vtec swap myself. could u just upgrade the ls pistons with like toda or sumthin or what. i dont want the motor to die. or blow up

 

On a ls/vtec setup the block is the most important piece. You need to make sure that thats strong/balanced/and proper compression(it needs to be able to take high revs). The head is fine to leave stock if you dont have the money yet. Focus on a strong block, the main reason the ls/vtec is unreliable is the fact that people dont build it right, and rev the hell out of them. The ls block can only take so much in its stock form, when a lightly modded vtec head can rev wild, lol.
Ryan

 

Ok i understand how people are saying preoper building on bottom end but what i dont get is like should i buy a forged crank or should i just use the stock one and balance it all out? I was thinking about just buying a crank kit with forged rods and forged b16 pistons but its a stock oem ls new crank...what should i do here just find a kit and get it all in and ballanced?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

try this for a change^^^^^^^

 

So from what im picking up...i want to get arp rod bolts(possibly eagle rods), b16 pistons(forged), blueprint and ballance the motor, new bearings, gsr oil and water pump, and a vtec conversion kit. that sounds so much cheaper then just buyin the complete thing...sounds like a decent built to get me around for a bit cause i still need the ecu, tranny and all that so sweet sound right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So from what im picking up...i want to get arp rod bolts(possibly eagle rods), b16 pistons(forged), blueprint and ballance the motor, new bearings, gsr oil and water pump, and a vtec conversion kit. that sounds so much cheaper then just buyin the complete thing...sounds like a decent built to get me around for a bit cause i still need the ecu, tranny and all that so sweet sound right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds similiar to the route i would take. Anyone have any ballpark figures on what it cost to balance/blueprint/micropolish the ls crank???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bseriesboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
try this for a change^^^^^^^</TD></TR></TABLE>

Grow up.

 

Yea what he said...also about the rods what about shot peened stock rods? that or forged? Exactly hat is shop peened i know its not for cracks right cause thats magnaflux?? Is it hardening?