Ok, im new to this board and have been looking around on it for a while, and was wondering on some advise for a turbo set up (ive decided to go boost) as im not quite an expert on forced induction systems yet (Im only 16 right now and im still learning all i can about the B series motors and have a Champ White JDM conversion LS/V-tec Teg with full Type R internals), but i was maybe lookin to go around 280-295 at the wheels (but only to start out, but im sure ill be around 235-250whp in the beginning till i can get my motor built but everyones gotta start somewere) but dont get me wrong because i know its impossible to tell what horsepower im gonna get out of what (also ive already got the hondata S200), so im just asking for some good ideas on what kind of set up to run for my teg. Needless to say ima need to do pistons, rods, headgaskets, valvetrain (the whole thing, there goes my allowence ), camshafts and a bit of porting and polishing here and there, but I was thinkin crower rods with ares (if thats how u spell it) pistons (9:5:1 if not 8:5:1) with Skunk 2 valvetrain with Turbo camshafts and gears and HKS gaskets and not sure on the sleeves (maybe some help with that), i know theres more to it than that but i guess thats the thick of it. Anyways i wanted to go with a Percision sc34 (i think thats right) turbo and XS piping and intercooler, not sure what kind of wastegate yet and almost any Blitz or HKS Blowoff valve, anything with that really nice (loude) bird chirp sound and (but i saw a really nice turbo manifod, black coated and it looked really unique, not very descriptive but maybe u know what im talkin about), and some 440cc injectors and run about 8 to 9lbs of boost till i get more done to my motor but ill have somethin to work around (Apex-i Vafc for the V-tec and boost controller 2, Greddy turbo timer and Blitz blue glow guages, boost oil and water temp and pressure and so on), any suggestions would be appriciated, please be kind im new and am not an expert and even far from it, but i love these cars and want to learn all i can. Thanx

 

damn seems like you know what you want already. and you've got a great platform to start off with as well. since you've done a bit of researching already,...what will the task of the car you're building? and what will you be striving for in the near future? meaning will you want to have a monster horsepower street car for drag, or a great all around resposive car for daily driving and auto x? also, who will be building/putting together your turbo setup?

IMHO, i think it would just be easier to get a Full-Race turbo system if you've got the cash for it. but if you want to build your own, you've got questions and we've got answers. just don't make the questions to brod.

 

What Im really going for is mabye an everyday driver, with maybe around 400whp (a main motivation is seeing the look on the faces of the guys drivin the domestics, "great u drive a 4.6ltr car thats makin 290 at the crank and say ur cars faster than mine and im a puss, but ive got a 1.8ltr with around 235whp (on just the turbo kit alone), u tell me whos makin the better numbers), but mainly i just want somthin reliable that i can take to the track run some descent times and drive home (and get the girls), ide be fine with 350whp (i mean i dont really wanna kill myself). Im thinkin also of having Jo-Tech do my work, but im not sure. Ive also got alot of friends in my school who take autotech class so they might help with some small stuff seeing as how my my best friends crossthreaded a bolt on his EVO and had to get a new exhaust so im not too sure ima trust em with my turbo. But yeah any advise would be greatly appriciated. Thanx

 

Let me just say that I would strongly recommend sleeving your block with a goal as high as 295whp. While stock internals can be used and tuned to hold 300 whp, they will become weak.

Since it seems that you have good goals and are willing to do the reading involved, it's just how far your pockets can carry you now.

Good luck with the setup...have you looked at any graphs for the SC34 to see what kind of efficiency it has for what you want? I never looked into those, but I know it's popular, will it support the power that you want?

 

Looks like he doesnt really need any help from us. Good luck with the build.

 

Lets put this in simplier terms.

Turbo Charger: SC34, I've seen some really nice numbers up to 298whp at only 9psi stock internals.

Manifold: Inline Pro Really manifold.

Intercooler and piping: XS intercooler and piping.

Wastegate: Tial Wastegate 35mm Good enough for what your goals.

BOV: Blitz, HKS, Greddy, etc.. this sound be the least of your concerns.

Downpipe: Atleast 2.5"

Exhaust: I would say 3" straight through custom made (www.kteller.com) your going to go big power later down the road so stick with 3"

Clutch + Flywheel: ACT Clutch (you pick one), prolite flywheel i believe thats 8lbs correct my if Im wrong. Your stock clutch will melt making those kind of power, it wont melt now but sooner or later it will ( much sooner).

Axels: becareful on how you drive..don't snap these things You can upgrade it but its not necessary and plus it cost a lot to upgrade it.

Gauges: Boost, A/F, EGT, Oil Pressure.

I see that you already have Hondata, I'm guessing you don't have the boost option. Pay 195 dollars more to add that on, and get it tuned. Don't get the VAFC if you already have Hondata s200. Its not worth it (assuming your OBD1). RC 550 CC injectors get saturated so you dont need resistor box.

Controllers: Boost Controller (electronic one) Apexi AVCR, Profec B Spec II, etc..Don't forget a Turbo Timer.

As for the Head..don't touch it. You don't need to upgrade that to be able to boost more or be more realiale when boosting. The head just makes so that you can rev higher.

Stick to 7-8psi, and if you can get to tuner go for the 9psi if you wish. You need a basemap to get to the tuner in one piece.

nternals:

Compression Ratio (CR):

You need to research more about the myth "Lower compression = better for boost"

Let me just summarize it here.
Goal = 300whp
*PRETEND*
-You dropped your CR to 9.1:1 which requires you to be boosting 12psi to make 300whp (Your Goal).
- BUT if you stay with your 10.6:1 CR (Stock GSR CR) boosting only 9psi will make you hit that 300whp.

People drop their CR to allow them to boost high, but theres no point in boosting that high if the same can be achieved by staying with that CR and boosting less. Im leaving out the realibilty factor for sake of discussion.

As for the internal I would leave it stock until you have enough to build a fully built or close to fully built motor. If you never pulled a block before then you don't know how much work it is. So get the Pistons, Rods, and pull your block out, put all those in and get some good sleeves. Your stock sleeves should last you up to 15psi I personally have not tested that value but thats what I heard. Keep this in mind, it will hold but that doesnt guarantee how long it will last...

If I left out anything Let me know.

 

you have quite a bit of knowledge...i came into this thread expected to see questions like "can i run 400whp on a stock block" or "i have 500 bucks and i want 20 lbs of boost"...but you seem to know your ****...

im in the same boat as you, im looking for AROUND 350-400whp daily driven...im going to be getting tuned by willis at TITAN MOTORSPORTS here in florida..heres my setup...

CP 9:1 81mm Pistons
Eagle H-BEAM Rods
ACL Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
Cometic MLS Headgasket
Garrett T3/t04e .63ar 57 trim turbo
Greddy Front Mount and Charge Pipes
Custom Piping from turbo to IC
Lovefab Shorty Mani
Tial 38/40mm External Wastegate
TurboXS RFL
TurboXS MBC
Hondata s200 w/ boost
OBD1 Converion(chipped p72)
Thermal R&D 3 inch Exhaust
Boost and A/F Gauge
Steel Braided Turbo Oil Lines
RC 550cc Injectors
Walboro 255lph intank fuel pump

i think thats about it, im sure im forgetting something...im still debating what to do about a downpipe, i cant find a place to make an AC compatible 3 inch so i might end up using a 2.5 flared to 3...ive run out of money also so i have no money for little misc things/tuning/install...i have a friend who works in an auto shop rebuilding my bottom end...i might decide to sleeve the block...but i dont really have 900 extra bucks laying around so we'll see...i may go with bigger injectors as well..just thought i would share my setup to help out with urs...

 

Thanx for the list (and for the compliment, im trying to learne all i can about these motors), it helped me to search and find some more choices for what ima use on my car, but im still lookin for that manifold and unfortunatly the inline pro wasnt what i was lookin for, im not sure what brand it was, but the one i saw was a black manifold with some rewally nice bends (didnt even look like a turbo manifold), they bent in toward the block and all i know is someone says it was like a 1500$ manifold or sumthin around in there. Anyways i also need to look at my campression and c wut i want to run, i dont wanna screw it up (i only wanna do this once). And also does anyone know how long it takes for a shop to sleeve your block?

 

I think Full Race makes a A/C compatible manifold and allows 3in downpipe.


I heard a lot about Titan Motorsports...haha fastest Supra I pretty sure your in good hands.


Race Fuel

lanojp1: thats a nice setpup you'll make great numbers with that.

I have a 2.5" dp and flared out to 3" exhaust.

 

------------------------------------
CP 9:1 81mm Pistons
Eagle H-BEAM Rods
ACL Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
Cometic MLS Headgasket
Garrett T3/t04e .63ar 57 trim turbo
Greddy Front Mount and Charge Pipes
Custom Piping from turbo to IC
Lovefab Shorty Mani
Tial 38/40mm External Wastegate
TurboXS RFL
TurboXS MBC
Hondata s200 w/ boost
OBD1 Converion(chipped p72)
Thermal R&D 3 inch Exhaust
Boost and A/F Gauge
Steel Braided Turbo Oil Lines
RC 550cc Injectors
Walboro 255lph intank fuel pump
----------------------------------------------


how much did all this cost you?

 

Full Race and a few other companies make great manifolds.

and as for the so called Myth about lower compression equals better for boost. this is true only if your goals are 400whp+ on pump gas. lower compression will give you more room for error and allow larger amounts of boost to make power. there is hardly a difference with lag so people saying lower compression = lag, are mainly bullshitting or are internet ******.

i've have 3 turbo setups now and all of them were B18b motors. i've had 8.5:1, 9:1, and 9.5:1...they all drove the same out of boost...same amount of lag, etc.

 

Hey, it was at Hot import nights that i saw the manifold on a JDM Integra, if uve been to one of those shows u might of seen what i am talking about, thanx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMteg_17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, it was at Hot import nights that i saw the manifold on a JDM Integra, if uve been to one of those shows u might of seen what i am talking about, thanx.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you mean Full Race manifold?

 

The manifold you want is a LOVEFAB manifold and the reason it was black is because it was coated.... its a beautiful manifold even without coating it has the awesome rainbow pearl kinda look. I think a lot of us are in the same boat as you in choosing what parts we want for our turbo setup's. My advice is to keep reading up a lot in the FI forum and don't be shy to ask a question in there to those guys because they are very smart and will treat you good.