GReddy turbo kit info for 98' Prelude...
I have a 98' Prelude SH. I would like to add boost to it. I want the GReddy turbo kit and I/C kit. But, is there anyway to get around the high c/r motor in my car? I had thought about adding a thicker head-gasket to lower the compression, but, is this a smart way to go? Or, would it be better to run all motor eith JUN, Torda, or Skunk2 valvetrain upgrades? Also, what kind of clutch would work for a good street/strip? Anyone that can help me, HELP!
Thanks
Thanks
those new TORDA cams are sik...but ur gonna have to get altezza tailights and neon lights for under the car just to have it run just right
Your question is somewhat misguided. Valvetrain should not affect compression at all. Either keep low boost and maximize tuning, or sleeve and get lower compression pistons. Read up on this stuff a bit more, it will keep you from posting strange questions like this.
OK, For all that have might read this, I posted the question as a regular car-guy-to-car-guy question. I was thinking about boosting the Prelude SH that I have, but, I have found out that there is an electronic differential in the SH that doesn't like to sense wheel-spin or to much torque. This might give me a BIG problem. The main question that I was asking though is as follows:
Should I run boost on a HIGH-COMPRESSION MOTOR and get AROUND the HIGH-COMPRESSION by adding a THICKER HEAD-GASKET to lower the C/R from the 11.0:1 tp a more safe and reasonable 10.0:1 or so w/out having to tear into the factory motor? I mean c'mon, its a 98' with only 34K miles on it!
OR
Would it be better to run an ALL-MOTOR APPLICATION WITH A GOOD SET OF CAMSHAFTS FROM EITHER JUN RACING JAPAN OR SKUNK2 RACING? I had thought that TODA RACING JAPAN made a valvetrain for the H22 MOTOR, but they don't. I use the car as a daily street-driven car, and I was wondering the BEST ROUTE TO TAKE. Thats all! Nothing More, Nothing Less!
I also don't appreciate all of the negative feedback answers to my question! "The neon lights etc"! I'm not GETTO like some people, so please, give me a break here. I just needed some answers and this is where I was hoping to find them!
Thanks...
Should I run boost on a HIGH-COMPRESSION MOTOR and get AROUND the HIGH-COMPRESSION by adding a THICKER HEAD-GASKET to lower the C/R from the 11.0:1 tp a more safe and reasonable 10.0:1 or so w/out having to tear into the factory motor? I mean c'mon, its a 98' with only 34K miles on it!
OR
Would it be better to run an ALL-MOTOR APPLICATION WITH A GOOD SET OF CAMSHAFTS FROM EITHER JUN RACING JAPAN OR SKUNK2 RACING? I had thought that TODA RACING JAPAN made a valvetrain for the H22 MOTOR, but they don't. I use the car as a daily street-driven car, and I was wondering the BEST ROUTE TO TAKE. Thats all! Nothing More, Nothing Less!
I also don't appreciate all of the negative feedback answers to my question! "The neon lights etc"! I'm not GETTO like some people, so please, give me a break here. I just needed some answers and this is where I was hoping to find them!
Thanks...
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Do what you want, it is your car. Turbo and NA are both doable. To do either well, you will have to "tear" into that engine. And if you cheap out (head gaskets are not a reliable way to play with compression), you will have to "tear" into your engine anyway. Nothing negative, just you coming into this forum without reading up before asking questions.
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yup, to have high hp either way you'll need to rebuild the bottom end/internals for NA or FI.
some points, the USDM H22 is 10:1 compression stock. JDM h22 is 10.6:1, type S is 11:1. you can boost an h22 6-8 psi without having to rebuild the bottom end. dunno how much hp guys are putting down with a low boost stock h22, but the most hp i've seen out of an NA h22 is around 230-240 whp.
some points, the USDM H22 is 10:1 compression stock. JDM h22 is 10.6:1, type S is 11:1. you can boost an h22 6-8 psi without having to rebuild the bottom end. dunno how much hp guys are putting down with a low boost stock h22, but the most hp i've seen out of an NA h22 is around 230-240 whp.
The greddy kit has to have the down pipe modified in order to run it on an SH. Also you typically lose ATTS because the ATTS computer will not functionally route the power while cornering because of the torque that is put out on a turbo or any form of forced induction for that matter. Also befor you force induct learn how to drive your car, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen boosted honda cars run close to stock times with traps 10-15 mph faster than stock.
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