can i add a b20 crank to my b18 to make 2.0 liters
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From: san jose, Ca, USA
Re: (Manuel)
so the only thing i can do to get 2.0 is to bore the block out to 84mm? so the b18 and b20 has the same crank and rods, just the bore size is different. i'd always thought that the b20 had a bigger crank and rods, this sure cleared my stupidity...
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From: san jose, Ca, USA
Re: (chad174)
so if i get a bare b20 block i can use my ls crank and rods on the b20 block and the only thing i would need is the b20 pistions. cool. i'm just wondering cause i have a ls block with eagle rods and ariais pistons and i want 2.0 liters.
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From: Phoenix, Arizona, United States
Re: (drunknbass)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drunknbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boring out a ls to 84 mm isnt as safeas running a b20 to begin with.. you might want to just keep it how it is now. or sleeve it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Of course it isn't safe because you wouldn't even have a cylinder. LS block=82mm bore max unless it is sleeved.
You could also use a 95mm crank to get 2 liters in your LS with stock 81mm bore.
Of course it isn't safe because you wouldn't even have a cylinder. LS block=82mm bore max unless it is sleeved.
You could also use a 95mm crank to get 2 liters in your LS with stock 81mm bore.
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From: Suck it Trebek
Re: (teckno_geek)
why go through all this???? <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teckno_geek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if i get a bare b20 block i can use my ls crank and rods on the b20 block and the only thing i would need is the b20 pistions. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you would have to have the bearings sized and the main caps line honed on top of paying for a bare block (if you can find a bare one), that seems like a big hassle compared to just sleeving the block you have. also a sleeved LS block at 84mm will be indestructible compared to a stock b20 block. also just think if you go with sleeving your LS block you can also step up to 85mm pistons wich dont really cost any more than 84mm so you would have an even bigger engine.
you would have to have the bearings sized and the main caps line honed on top of paying for a bare block (if you can find a bare one), that seems like a big hassle compared to just sleeving the block you have. also a sleeved LS block at 84mm will be indestructible compared to a stock b20 block. also just think if you go with sleeving your LS block you can also step up to 85mm pistons wich dont really cost any more than 84mm so you would have an even bigger engine.
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From: Phoenix, Arizona, United States
Re: (JCushing)
No an old prelude crank will not work in your block. You would have to use a specialty crank from Eagle or I think maybe SCAT makes one, possibly Crower as well.
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From: So Cal, CA
Re: (asubennett)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No an old prelude crank will not work in your block. You would have to use a specialty crank from Eagle or I think maybe SCAT makes one, possibly Crower as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yep. also, many people who have tried the old lude crank say it SUCKS.
just save the money and resleeve your LS block, especially if your car is street driven. you don't want those big ol' cranks for daily drivers.
yep. also, many people who have tried the old lude crank say it SUCKS.
just save the money and resleeve your LS block, especially if your car is street driven. you don't want those big ol' cranks for daily drivers.
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From: San Fernando, Kali, usa
Re: (CRVTEC0WNZJ00)
actually from experience the b20's suck *** the b18a are way stronger block
the stock b20's have weak cyclinder walls and would have to sleeved any way
so get a b18a/b and just work on that
this was my final outcome after trying to be a cheap *** I knew I couldn't be one
but never know unless I tried to save money
cost me three times to just of start with a b18
the stock b20's have weak cyclinder walls and would have to sleeved any way
so get a b18a/b and just work on that
this was my final outcome after trying to be a cheap *** I knew I couldn't be one
but never know unless I tried to save money
cost me three times to just of start with a b18
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From: Browns Summit, NC, USA
Re: (krazie1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazie1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually from experience the b20's suck *** the b18a are way stronger block
the stock b20's have weak cyclinder walls and would have to sleeved any way
so get a b18a/b and just work on that
this was my final outcome after trying to be a cheap *** I knew I couldn't be one
but never know unless I tried to save money
cost me three times to just of start with a b18 </TD></TR></TABLE>
please list your experiences!!!!
cause i'm calling BS on that....
i've had 4 b20's now....keep building them and selling them....have not had one problem that was not caused by user error
the stock b20's have weak cyclinder walls and would have to sleeved any way
so get a b18a/b and just work on that
this was my final outcome after trying to be a cheap *** I knew I couldn't be one
but never know unless I tried to save money
cost me three times to just of start with a b18
</TD></TR></TABLE>please list your experiences!!!!
cause i'm calling BS on that....
i've had 4 b20's now....keep building them and selling them....have not had one problem that was not caused by user error
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