this is the third time i will be replacing the oil pan gasket on my 94 teg. first time, it leaked because a friend didnt remove the two washers that were stuck to it. second time, it was overtightened and it leaked from some areas where the gasket pushed out a little. so now.. im goin to do it right. use a damn torque wrnech and use hondabond in the seams of the block and corners. the first time, dude hondabonded the whole oil pan gasket on both sides.

what specs should i torque the oil pan gasket? i dont want to overtighten it. any recommendations on where to use hondabond besides the seams of the block where the oil pump is and the side where the flywheel is? any suggestions will help.

 

hmm use rtv sealant. and a 10 milly 1/8 ratchet and dont over torque and itll be leak free FO SHEEZY

 

Well when I did mine I just used the gasket that came with the kit and torqued it to the specific setting which is in your owners manual, and you should have one. I never had it leak and I didn't use hondabond. A 96 integ may not have the same torque settings as a 94. Maybe they do but I don't know.

 

so where should i get a torque wrench at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAKER HATER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so where should i get a torque wrench at? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on how much you want to spend. I think a good mid priced torque wrench is the Craftsmen line. They're not too expensive $50-$70 and are good quality. You could get a cheap on for $30, or get a nice Snap-On for about $200.

 

so what are the torque specs according to helms? ive noticed many of you say that the torque specs are too tight. what are the recommended specs and which specs have you found to be better?

 

bump

 

are u sequencing?

 

of course.