ok well i read the thread how to check CEL codes. got a code 3 map senor. check the haynes manual and cleaned the connectors but nothing. car idels high at 1500 and when car is turned off and restarted its normal. local mechanic said that its the map and barrel sensor or the o2 sensor. what is the barrel sensor and that it cost $350 from the dealer, is this guy robbing me??? or should i get the map my self and switch it.

 

never heard of a barrel sensor... and good luck finding a map sensor for your car... youll have to get a whole throttle body... they are around 500 bucks list @ your honda dealer... look into your IACV... seem to be a VERY common problem around here..

 

they dont sell just the sensor???

 

dude you can find a map sensor around here for less than $50 or just go to a junk yard

 

check w/ your junk yards, ... check the classifieds, post a WTB whatever you need..

 

no they dont. its riveted on. you can get a used tb from somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no they dont. its riveted on. you can get a used tb from somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just check and its held by 2 screws and the haynes manual said it removable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no they dont. its riveted on. you can get a used tb from somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the sensor is riveted on then it is a tps.

 

well now that i know i can change it. is there anyway to check the sensor to see if its damadged. is this a common problem?

 

yes, there is a way to check for bad sensor. do you have a helm manual?
let me see and post the page. if i can't then hopefully other h-t members will be able to do it.

 

i have a chilton's probably same thing tho.

 

that will work follow the procedure in the manual then you are good to go there. or you can try switch out with a known good map sensor from your friends .

 

if i switch a good one in, when i turn the car off will the CEL turn it self off automatically?

 

in my previous posts i was refering to the Throttle Position Sensor... only ones i have ever seen that were removable were JDM ones.

 

thanks for the help tho slambedcivic.

 

let do this way. first without switching the sensor. remove the 2 screws then the sensor (be sure not to lose the o-ring underneath), clean the sensor tit and the hole where the tit plug into. reset the ecu then test drive to make sure the cel light came back. if it does then switch with the known good sensor, reset the ecu then test drive the car again to see if the cel came back or not. if after the test drive and no cel light then you have a bad sensor. if after the test drive and cel light then there is a problem with your the wiring or the ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEAM SL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help tho slambedcivic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no problem

cleaning out the IACV completely should cure the problem. i use brake clean, gum cutter or when i dont have the above laquer thinner... just make sure that when youre ready to put it back on to use high pressure and blow it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no problem

cleaning out the IACV completely should cure the problem. i use brake clean, gum cutter or when i dont have the above laquer thinner... just make sure that when youre ready to put it back on to use high pressure and blow it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry for the newb comment but what is the IACV?

 

idle air control valve = iavc

 

my chiltons book, doesnt show the IACV with a picture, just some info how to change it. any of you have a pic or guide me to were it is at.

 

the "barrel sensor" you refer to is a BARO sensor or barometric pressure. It is inside the ECU. Maybe that is why they want so much to fix it. Be better off buying a new one

 

if its that then a new "ecu"? mt CEL test only cam eup with 1 code tho!