machine shop help. ls rods on d series
anyone know what needs to be done, I'm dropping of my block monday, hone, polish jurnels, maganux, clean and machine my rods for my virita pistons. I'm wondering that exactly needs to be done, the piston end wider, the crank end smaller, aka bigger bearing?
added a picture, always gets help.. lol
Modified by DewMota at 11:56 PM 8/22/2004
added a picture, always gets help.. lol
Modified by DewMota at 11:56 PM 8/22/2004
Kerry Novak @ Crower can supply small end bushings so you can fit 19mm D-pistons to 21mm LS rods, $10 per bushing. You have to specify exact size desired; you play engineer. This setup requires using a floating wristpin + spiralocs... cough up $11/piston to have Arias modify them for spiralocs.
After all that hassle, LS rod is still not as beefy as the direct drop in 86-87 PG7 aka D16A1 rod. Gay!
After all that hassle, LS rod is still not as beefy as the direct drop in 86-87 PG7 aka D16A1 rod. Gay!
do you have access to a machine shop yourself?
if not just get eagles. notching a block is easier then machining a rod.
BUT if you do it:
the large end that goes on the crank needs to be thinned down to fit between the d16 counter weights.
the small ends needs to be rebushed to accept the 19mm (i think that is the D16 size) wrist pin.
after you rebush you will need to use a floating wrist pin style piston, either aftermarket or modify your stock ones. (i suggest aftermarket)
here is what it sould look like when you are done:
if not just get eagles. notching a block is easier then machining a rod.
BUT if you do it:
the large end that goes on the crank needs to be thinned down to fit between the d16 counter weights.
the small ends needs to be rebushed to accept the 19mm (i think that is the D16 size) wrist pin.
after you rebush you will need to use a floating wrist pin style piston, either aftermarket or modify your stock ones. (i suggest aftermarket)
here is what it sould look like when you are done:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if not just get eagles. notching a block is easier then machining a rod.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You haven't had to notch D-blocks for Eagles in a couple years, they revised the design.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the large end that goes on the crank needs to be thinned down to fit between the d16 counter weights. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, forgot that part.
You haven't had to notch D-blocks for Eagles in a couple years, they revised the design.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the large end that goes on the crank needs to be thinned down to fit between the d16 counter weights. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, forgot that part.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekkis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After all that hassle, LS rod is still not as beefy as the direct drop in 86-87 PG7 aka D16A1 rod. Gay!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've always thought the d16a1 rods were just as weak as the rest of the d series rods...
I've always thought the d16a1 rods were just as weak as the rest of the d series rods...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've always thought the d16a1 rods were just as weak as the rest of the d series rods...</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 88-89 are exactly the same as the "rest" of the D16 rods.
Stolen from egmike:

Those are 86-87's vs a set of D16Z6 rods... no pictoral comparo of LS vs early D16A1, but they are <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egmike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">~3.5mm thicker than LS rods (LS rods are the same thickness as d16z6) and about 2 mm narrower than LS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's "close enough for rocket science" for me.
IMO, great for D-series NA duty, good for super budget boosted build, but earl's right - you can afford to sling LS rods into a D-series you can afford Eagles that are five times as strong.
I've always thought the d16a1 rods were just as weak as the rest of the d series rods...</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 88-89 are exactly the same as the "rest" of the D16 rods.
Stolen from egmike:
Those are 86-87's vs a set of D16Z6 rods... no pictoral comparo of LS vs early D16A1, but they are <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egmike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">~3.5mm thicker than LS rods (LS rods are the same thickness as d16z6) and about 2 mm narrower than LS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's "close enough for rocket science" for me.
IMO, great for D-series NA duty, good for super budget boosted build, but earl's right - you can afford to sling LS rods into a D-series you can afford Eagles that are five times as strong.
i talked it over with my machine guy and he says floating pin design is if if.. the reilbultiy factor goes down a bit, and taking material off the rods, not the best case.. he suggested eagles... so im going eagles, with virita pistons now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DewMota »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know the thermal coating stuff, where i can get it, etc ?, for the piston top, head, and skirts</TD></TR></TABLE>don't bother
as far as the 86-87 rods. They are bigger than the z6 rods, BUT the metaluligy (metal composition) of thet ealier rods basicallly equates to the same strength.
the LS rods are bigger than d16z rods (and have better composition than the ealier rods). look at my picture and decide what you would want.
but like I said go eagle.
**i could fit my z6 rods inside of the LS rods
the LS rods are bigger than d16z rods (and have better composition than the ealier rods). look at my picture and decide what you would want.
but like I said go eagle.
**i could fit my z6 rods inside of the LS rods
ya good choice go with vitara's and eagles i wouldnt worry about coating them they worked fine for me without it no problems at all with my vitara build and i drove it in foot deap snow all winter
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From: R.I.P Brian Arbogast...you will be missed, maryland, USA
The problem is the damned search engine. It used to sort by date, but now guesses it's relevance and only shows ~5 threads per page. So your most relevant thread is several years old.
I thought we wanted the search engine to work BETTER???!
I thought we wanted the search engine to work BETTER???!
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