originally posted on the ZR-7.com forum:

oh man...this stinks..

i completed the valve clearance adjust (all within spec, look perfect) and sync'd the carbs (right at 20 on the morgan carbtune) and also removed the cover from the airbox (but left the piece that holds the stock filer in)

now when i get on it, it bogs if i use more than just barely opening the throttle.

the normal off-idle bog is still there, but this is much more...if i roll on the throttle in 1st or 2nd, it slowly accelerates, bogs, and then i get a surge of power going through 4-5k rpm.

i can also get the bog to happen in neutral if i snap open the throttle (again, not the typical off-idle bog)

i did have to redo my cam timing cause my zipties were poorly placed, and the chain slipped. i only removed the exhaust cam since the intake were all in the middle of the spec. when i fixed the timing, the timing marks are all lined up perfectly. intake/exhaust cam marks were dead on with the head while the marks on the crank lined up perfect.

the only thing i wasnt sure of with the whole procedure was the chain guide that sits in between the camshafts. it seems that the chain rides on this guide. its not tight, and i have the correct number of pins between the in/exhaust marks on the cam sprocket (45). it just seems wierd that the cam chain actually runs along the bottom of the guide. i guess if it didn't the engine would make much more noise with that thing flopping around.

other than that everything went fine and didnt seem out of the ordinary. i did also remove the exhaust gas reburn 'air switch' and the hoses. i plugged the hole at the airbox and ran a hose between the holes on the valve cover (like jarel did)

the cam tensioner installed fine. the carm sync went fine. i am at a loss. i double checked all the vacuum hoses and the wires to the distributor.

the bike did sit in the garage for 2 weeks while i did this, since i didnt work on it while i was away for thanksgiving. i dont think it sat long enough to dry the gas out and make stuff in the carbs stick. i put a screw in the fuel line so it wouldnt evaporate from there. could it still have dried out and made things stick? i dont think so. the bike has only 1600 miles, but the bike behaves like there is a problem with fuel/air delivery...

summary of potential problem:
chain guide (?)
cam timing - seems perfect
carb sync - went fine
exhaust gas reburn - looks good
sat too long (?)
electrical - looks fine....

thats all i can think of...any ideas? thanks so much...


Joe

 

ah i figured it out. bike is leaning out too much from taking the cover off the airbox. dang carbs...so sensitive. time to learn about jetting the carbs

 

Get the next bigger size for your pilot jets.

 

Are you running a different pipe? Be cautious when you play with the fueling. And dont fit a dynojet kit to your Kwak. There are numerous reports that the replacement needles screw the seats. There is naff all to gain by opening up the airbox anyway if the stock pip/can is on there. Go back to standard.
Good luck

 

thanks for the advice. i have a stock can for now. the airbox has the cover on now. there is still a flat (i think lean) spot when i get on the throttle at most rpms (mainly under 5000). i guess removal of the exhaust gas reburn stuff leaned it out just a tad. makes sense. as far as jetting, i will either go up 1 size or look at the holeshot kits. holeshot kits come with K&N filters and good instructions and excellent phone tech support (if needed). i am just gonna ride it for now and see how it feels in a few weeks.

Joe

 

ahhh i fixed everything...runs great now! see:

 

what was wrong

 

sorry...

i did not install the intake box correctly. this box housed the air filter. since air could get in without going through the restrictive air filter, it would lean out. i put it back in correctly, snug against the chamber where the carbs are, and it runs great.

so now i am not looking at rejetting unless i get a K&N filter and a new exhaust.

Joe



[Modified by falconGSR, 9:40 PM 12/11/2001]