Oil Pan Gasket and Hondabond?
Guys,
So, I'm about to put my 3rd oil pan gasket on my 89 CRX because my previous 2 keep leaking. I don't remeber where but come to find out that I needed to put hondabond on it to seal it. Also, I should only torque the bolts/screws to 10 ft lbs which I'm sure I've over torqued them. So, I have a few questions
1. Would a aftermarket gasket work just fine?
2. Is there a torque pattern that I should follow?
3. Where exactly do I put the hondabond stuff on (corners, half circles area, etc)?
Thanks for all the help!
So, I'm about to put my 3rd oil pan gasket on my 89 CRX because my previous 2 keep leaking. I don't remeber where but come to find out that I needed to put hondabond on it to seal it. Also, I should only torque the bolts/screws to 10 ft lbs which I'm sure I've over torqued them. So, I have a few questions
1. Would a aftermarket gasket work just fine?
2. Is there a torque pattern that I should follow?
3. Where exactly do I put the hondabond stuff on (corners, half circles area, etc)?
Thanks for all the help!
1- stick to OEM when it comes to gaskets
2- wouldnt hurt to do a star pattern. same reason as you would do that for a wheel.
3- put a decent coating on the outside of the gasket. just enough to seal it up all the way around but not enough to get in the way of the gasket.
2- wouldnt hurt to do a star pattern. same reason as you would do that for a wheel.
3- put a decent coating on the outside of the gasket. just enough to seal it up all the way around but not enough to get in the way of the gasket.
Don't know of any aftermarket gaskets that would work. I would stay away from cork and paper, the rubber Honda should be superior if you install it correctly.
Get a good torque wrench and you won't have an issue. Tighten all bolts in 3 steps with your final torque of 8.7 lb-ft, a good 3/8" drive will do the trick, I have a Craftsman one. Manual says to finger tighten the corner and middle screws on long side then start tightening from middle back in clockwise direction, 3 steps. It's very finicky to over tightening since the gasket will squirm out.
Honda bond on the seams like JC stated above.
Protip: take the gasket out of the package and let it sit on the floor, it'll unfold it self pretty good. May want to use some Hondabond to glue the gasket to the pan in a couple of area since you don't want the gasket to shift when installing
Get a good torque wrench and you won't have an issue. Tighten all bolts in 3 steps with your final torque of 8.7 lb-ft, a good 3/8" drive will do the trick, I have a Craftsman one. Manual says to finger tighten the corner and middle screws on long side then start tightening from middle back in clockwise direction, 3 steps. It's very finicky to over tightening since the gasket will squirm out.
Honda bond on the seams like JC stated above.
Protip: take the gasket out of the package and let it sit on the floor, it'll unfold it self pretty good. May want to use some Hondabond to glue the gasket to the pan in a couple of area since you don't want the gasket to shift when installing
the problem me and my buddys ran into was that we didnt REALLY get ALL the gasket and oil off. Last time we scraped for hours, carb cleaned it like crazy, scrubed and scrubed, now its great.
R ich
R ich
i find the 10ft/lbs is to tight and it squeezes the gasket out the sides when torquing it down.
i use 30-40 IN/lbs with RTV sealer/silicone/hondabond on the corners where the oil pump is mated into the block and on the other side near the flywheel where the main seal cover is mated to the block.
i use 30-40 IN/lbs with RTV sealer/silicone/hondabond on the corners where the oil pump is mated into the block and on the other side near the flywheel where the main seal cover is mated to the block.
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dth0ng69
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 18, 2009 12:04 PM




