Alternator, Vss, O2, Purge Tank fuse keeps blowing
Okay guys I'm stumped.
Background; 2000 Civic with JDM ITR swap. I added a turbo kit 2 months ago. Running a Hondata S200B with P07 ecu.
Plx Wideband M300. Had car tuned and was running great.
Started blowing fuses last week. Went out to go to work one morning. Jumped in my car stopped off for my morning coffee,
started on my way and pop. Speedo went dead. Made it to work, made it home but then battery died.
So I changed the fuse got the car running. Fuse did not pop. Took it out for a test drive and pop. I headed home.
I started checking the various systems for continuity/voltage. Alternator is charging I have continuity to alternator. Checked voltage regulator within specs. Checked voltage to battery within spec. Checked VSS plug for continuity okay. Voltage okay.
My Hondata was setup to run in OpenLoop. O2 was disabled. I disconnected the wideband thinking it was the problem. Not running any O2 sensor. I am stumped. I tried checking for codes in my ecu and I am just getting a solid cel. Also when I check for codes by jumping service connector SRS light comes on and stays on. I am starting to think it is my Hondata box. Occassionaly when I try to start my car I get check engine light come on if I wiggle the communication wire to the Hondata box the check engine light it goes out.
Fuses seems to pop easier once car has been warmed up and fuses have blown. Like right away. I just have to turn ignition on and pop. If I disonnect the battery and let it sit. Then I can replace the fuse start the car take it out and within 2 to 5 minutes pop. Fuse blows.
I also checked for shorts by disconnecting - battery cable and hooking up test light between - battery cable and - battery post
then started pulling fuses. Showing no shorts anywhere.
The really weird thing is that I had taken the car out for close to 1hour last night and had no problems. The fuse did not pop.
Ran great. Then this morning pop. Happened as I accelerated hard off onramp.
The other thing I noticed is that I get a check engine come on if I decelerate in open loop. I have always had this happen with the Hondata. I have heard of other people having this problem with the Hondata. I am wondering if maybe the O2 heater circuit in the ecu is causing a problem.
I've been think of trying another ecu. But that would mean setting it up to work with the Hondata.
I am stumped. Any help would be appreciated. Any other things that I could try to narrow down the problem.
Thanks in advance.
John
Background; 2000 Civic with JDM ITR swap. I added a turbo kit 2 months ago. Running a Hondata S200B with P07 ecu.
Plx Wideband M300. Had car tuned and was running great.
Started blowing fuses last week. Went out to go to work one morning. Jumped in my car stopped off for my morning coffee,
started on my way and pop. Speedo went dead. Made it to work, made it home but then battery died.
So I changed the fuse got the car running. Fuse did not pop. Took it out for a test drive and pop. I headed home.
I started checking the various systems for continuity/voltage. Alternator is charging I have continuity to alternator. Checked voltage regulator within specs. Checked voltage to battery within spec. Checked VSS plug for continuity okay. Voltage okay.
My Hondata was setup to run in OpenLoop. O2 was disabled. I disconnected the wideband thinking it was the problem. Not running any O2 sensor. I am stumped. I tried checking for codes in my ecu and I am just getting a solid cel. Also when I check for codes by jumping service connector SRS light comes on and stays on. I am starting to think it is my Hondata box. Occassionaly when I try to start my car I get check engine light come on if I wiggle the communication wire to the Hondata box the check engine light it goes out.
Fuses seems to pop easier once car has been warmed up and fuses have blown. Like right away. I just have to turn ignition on and pop. If I disonnect the battery and let it sit. Then I can replace the fuse start the car take it out and within 2 to 5 minutes pop. Fuse blows.
I also checked for shorts by disconnecting - battery cable and hooking up test light between - battery cable and - battery post
then started pulling fuses. Showing no shorts anywhere.
The really weird thing is that I had taken the car out for close to 1hour last night and had no problems. The fuse did not pop.
Ran great. Then this morning pop. Happened as I accelerated hard off onramp.
The other thing I noticed is that I get a check engine come on if I decelerate in open loop. I have always had this happen with the Hondata. I have heard of other people having this problem with the Hondata. I am wondering if maybe the O2 heater circuit in the ecu is causing a problem.
I've been think of trying another ecu. But that would mean setting it up to work with the Hondata.
I am stumped. Any help would be appreciated. Any other things that I could try to narrow down the problem.
Thanks in advance.
John
Check for a brown wire in the harness that runs under the intake manifold. This happened to me and it took me forever to figure it out.
This brown wire was rubbing on a bracket that supports the intake manifold and everytime it would ground out,it would blow fuses.
Later after working at the Honda dealership,I found out there was a service bulletin on this particular problem...
Good luck
This brown wire was rubbing on a bracket that supports the intake manifold and everytime it would ground out,it would blow fuses.
Later after working at the Honda dealership,I found out there was a service bulletin on this particular problem...
Good luck
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