Well ive wanted one for a long time. I have a 98 prelude. I dont want to be super fast or make tons of power. Ive just always wanted to be quicker with little problems. I have a cold air intake, a DC header, a vafc, an ignition, and a greddy evo catback. I got greedy and got a nitrous kit never really wanted one but ran across a super deal on it. Had a freind install it and sprayed a couple times and my car started idleing real rough and cutting off when it dropped to idle. I have a freind that is a tech aty honda went there and he put the scan tool to it and it read bad 02 sensor. He said he doughted that was the only problem btu we should fix it. So i payed 200 for a sensor and relaced it yesterday. Well nothing happedend and it was still missing and ****. So he checked the plugs wires all that stuff. and found nothing so not spark. then he put some propane into the intake to make sure it wasnt a fuel injector. It wasnt. So checked compression real low. the temp of each header pipe on each cylinder was 480ish except cylinder 4 and it was 200. So scotty(the tech) said prolly vavles bent or burned up or piston ring. So i took it as an excuss to get my euro R motor. So first off any other ideas about what is wrong with my old H22 im planning on fixing it after my swap. Secound ive searched and found alot of info on the idel control problem when swapping a euro R into a 4th gen does the problem exist in the 5th gen and does the ecu and everhting just plug right up as ive been told. are there any other problems i should know about. Me and my boss, i work at a car stereo, he is a very competant mechanic, he just rebuilt his M3's head. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Thank you.

 

I'm curious as to why nobody has replied, I can't really help you out here though.

Sorry

 

ok may be you should make your post alittle simpler..

how much of a n20 shot were you runing, chances are either you burnt a hole thru a piston or dropped the ring landings which is causing crappy compression.

swapping in the euro r isn't that complicated,

you can either chose to keep you obd2 computer reuse your old distirbutor, old oilpump assembly and injectors,

or you use the injectors and resistor box that come with the euro r swap, then use a obd1 ditributor, cut and splice the wires from your harness to match up to the distributor, and then get a obd2 to obd1 conversion harness and use the euro r ecu.

you have to decide which way you want to go, either way is alittle work but not hard.

 

i think it might be a bent valve spring. when you sprayed did you over rev it?

 

it was a NX wet kit and it was a 55 shot, no i dint over rev it to my knoledge and i was under the impression that the uro R being a 01 motor was obd2. BUt i could be wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCPreludeDriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was a NX wet kit and it was a 55 shot, no i dint over rev it to my knoledge and i was under the impression that the uro R being a 01 motor was obd2. BUt i could be wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yeah crap

that makes it even easier,

are you getting the ecu with it?

 

yea im getting the whole swap from hondamotorsonline

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCPreludeDriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea im getting the whole swap from hondamotorsonline</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much did that set you back,

are you geting the tranny too, and axles?

 

$4200. And yes; it's a complete swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it might be a bent valve spring. when you sprayed did you over rev it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

bent valve in all probabilty. no the spring

Also possible you toasted the ringlands, i dunno a 55 shot should have been fine. how man times did you spray?

thats a pretty good price for a euro R swap with tranny and everything. you are gonna love that motor and tranny. should just plop right in. I suggest changing all of the normal wear and tear ****. wires, plugs, all fluids, filters, the usual.

 

Good luck with your new swap.
PM me if you need any assistance with the install.

 

hmmm I'm thinking the euro-r ecu is controlling the Euro-R Electronic power steering, which you won't have. I don't know if you can use that ecu...


but yeah basically use your OBD2 distributor and coil, and an OBD2 ecu that works. Personally if you are going to do this right I would suggest you get a coversion harness and hondata to make some nice numbers or AEM EMS. You can still use the obd dist it doesn't matter at that point.

If you can't use the euro-r ecu running a USDM one wouldn yeild as much gains I don't think..pretty safe fuel and ignition settings..

 

So the accord ecu cant be used. That sucks. Why not, the electric power steering, i dont know anyhitng about that, but does my ecu controll my power steering i have now, i thought it was pretty much mechanical and hydrolic. would it throw a code because it dosnt sense the electic power steering or would somehting not work. Sorry for all the questions. And if it cant be used what would the cheapest solution be that would still be upgrading from my factory ecu

 

I have a Euro R H22 from hmotorsonline as well. Am currently installing it now still, so I have little advice to give at this point

 

you wont be able to use the euro R ecu, the harness required for that ECU is different than any that I've ever seen, soo you would have to make a custom harness to use it and have access to information regarding the pinouts on that ecu. Just get a conversion harness and run a chipped P28. Works fine on mine.

 

i am confused as you said you didnt want to be super fast or have a lot of HP, but you dropped 4200 on a new motorsetup?

you could of rebuilt the current motor, put new pistons and rings for couple hundred or so bucks and even then did a ton more upgrades, and be way way cheaper~

 

yeah i mean with 4200 you definnatly could have a had a much sicker setup, but there is nothing like a nice reliable h23a vtec from honda strait out of the factory,

good luck though