My plan is to pick up some of the German made Castrol 0w30. I am a little concerned because I am in AZ and right now it hits 100+ daily.

Is this a good idea or should I go with a different weight? I read a bunch of threads, etc, but many people don't live in AZ so I am wondering if advice on oil weight would be different because of the different temperature range.

I had Redline in there and after almost two months it was below the lower dot on the dip stick (i.e. burning lots of oil!). I am guessing this is due to temp.

 

Come on, no replies?

Dammit, I own an ITR, bow down to me!

 

the 0w30 is more fluid than water. it's sick.

find the temp specs on the oil. It might be kind of thin but you might try it and see how it fairs.

 

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Not the Castrol 0W30 he's talking about...

 

Yeah, isn't supposed to be about as thick as a 10W30? So maybe it would do well here in the summer?

I gotta try to look in to this some more.

Just looking for something I won't burn through. Redline used to be that for me, but as mentioned I burned tons of that since my last oil change.

 

I found this on a website:



So I was thinking of using maybe 20W-50. I think Basch in Phoenix recommended this is I were to change to something for the summer.

I don't think this comes in Mobil1 however, I would need to go with Redline, or some other brand.

 

The german Castrol Syntec is apparently "the ****"....

ACEA A3 is what you should look for for high temperature performance. Weight matters too but generally heavier oils can get ACEA A3. (for instance Mobil1 15W50 is ACEA 3, I decided to start using it this summer.)

-Chris

 

Whats wrong with the same old 10w30 that is recommended? Why change? if it ain't broke...

 

Yeah; I was thinking of trying 10w30 Mobil1. I think I should probably do this before trying the Castrol stuff.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

Read EJPrimo's comments on page 2; the man knows his oil(s).

 

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if german castrol syntec 0w-30 is thin then what does that make mobil1 10w-30 which is thinner than syntec 0w-30??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My plan is to pick up some of the German made Castrol 0w30. I am a little concerned because I am in AZ and right now it hits 100+ daily.
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i would be more concerned if i were using mobil1 10w-30 in these temperatures.

OT: mobil1 10w-30 is the factory fill for the mistubshi evolution.

but wait check this out:http://theoildrop.server101.co...00000

after 1,125 miles on mobil1 10w-30 it turned into a 20 weight oil?? man that sucks!! and the owners manual calls for an OCI of 3500. what does the manufacturers want, a 10 weight oil circulating in the motor after 3500 miles?

yes, mobil1 is the ****! it cannot even say in grade for 3000 miles.

after learning this information i would not want to buy a used mitsubishi evo unless a thicker viscosity oil is used in this motor or if the owners changes their mobil1 10w-30 every 1000 miles. imagine a 20 weight motor oil in a turbo car esp. those who drive their car to the limit. this car needs an ACEA A3 motor oil.

 

I'm throwing the German Castrol Syntec into my Accord when it is due for it's next change...I have m1 in there right now...first switch to synthetic on that car and it's at 250,000 miles....everything's going well so far...

If all turns out well, I'll most likely switch from Amsoil to the German Syntec in my R too. Amsoil is expensive and not readily available. (you have to order it online, blah!)

 

***Disclaimer

I should've stated it in my post - I was speaking metaphorically.