i used loctite, lockwashers and it always still keeps coming loose ... anyone got any ideas? my cars getting tuned tomorrow so I need it fixed asap thanks

 

Loctite will burn off at high temps. Perhaps there are something like these for your application.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/nc...r=361

Or you can always use locking tabs around the hex-head and safety wire.

 

Same problem, from exhaust manifold to external wastegate... the damn bolt either gets shaken loose, or breaks off with the nut.

I think it's a combo of heat (that damn exhast mani), vibration, and my dump tube from the wastegate. The dump tube hangs freely, and I think it's putting some torque on the wastegate flange to the mani everytime the motor jerks.

Solution (I hope): to brace the dump tube to the motor - did this yesterday. We'll see if it holds up.

Also, try using some high-temp tolerant bolts/nuts, and lock washers with lock tite.
L9? or L5 grade bolts?

Fingers crossed, good luck.

Juka

 

Get a set of brand new bolts.

You must tighten when **** is hot. When the turbo is hot, tighten in, when the manifold is hot, tighten it.

Shouldn't have much of a problem after that.

 

Use two nuts on the end of the bolt....

 

this was originally posted by me at z6's house ....anyway the bolt screws right into the manifold. the inlinepro manifold is threaded so it doesnt use nuts on the other end...im going to try the wiring thing tomorrow...

 

i used some stuff that i got a napa.. i got to go there tomorrow so ill ask what it was called and then let you know.

 

Stan at Fast-Turbo might have a stud kit that will work with your manifold and turbo. Studs are better than bolts at holding things together.

 

I had the same problem...lock washers own!

 

lemme ask u one question how low is your car....this might seem to be meaningless but my car is really low and my downpipe kept smacking the speed bump and bolts get loose every 3 days not even funny....manifold to turbo bolt downpipe to turbo bolts......everything got loose........


now i got studs in there with hella lock tit

 

Snug all the bolts after every trip for a week and they won't come out. I had the same problem at first but just popped the hood after I got home everyday and just made sure all of them were snug. Haven't had a problem since.


Modified by nsxmatt at 11:55 AM 8/6/2004

 

I had the same problem BERORE i put a flex pipe between the downpipe and cat.
Once I installed that, problem went away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSMu4ia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a set of brand new bolts.

You must tighten when **** is hot. When the turbo is hot, tighten in, when the manifold is hot, tighten it.

Shouldn't have much of a problem after that. </TD></TR></TABLE>


THis trick works. Good tuners know to torque the mani cold; and then let it run for a while and then torque them down again.

 

http://www.stage8.com

or you can try pre-stressed cone washers...you can get them serrated too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem...lock washers own!</TD></TR></TABLE>

its just that easy.

also tightening them after the manifold is heated.

that whole safety wire thing....a bit too much if you ask me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used loctite, lockwashers...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem...lock washers own!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reading owns!

Safety wire is used on suspension and brake hardware in racing where vibration and impacts would loosen any bolt with lockwashers and/or loctite.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10-94-55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Reading owns!

Safety wire is used on suspension and brake hardware in racing where vibration and impacts would loosen any bolt with lockwashers and/or loctite.</TD></TR></TABLE>

... and pretty much everything that unbolts/screws on a race prepped bike...

 

Use studs/lockwashers, thats what I did for both Dpipe to Turbo and Manifold to Turbo

In 9 months I didnt have one exhuast leak.

On my next setup Im going to do studs/lockwashers and Im going to go with a VBand for the Dpipe for an easy to remove setup

 

http://www.stage8.com &gt; everything out there

 

I had the same problem, ever 1000k miles or so. I Bought new bolts and NEW LOCK WASHERS! That made all the difference. I torqued them down to around 50ft pounds, went 30k more miles without them coming loose until I removed them.

 

oh yeah forgot to mention i got a fat 3" 10 inch flexpipe on there too...

 

I'm using studs w/2 copper crush nuts on each. It's been working great, a few thousand miles and noting has came loose.

 

I was having the same problem bolts loose all the time it was the vibration. I had my muffler shop weld a brace for the dp to engine block and it wasn't a problem after that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G"UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used some stuff that i got a napa.. i got to go there tomorrow so ill ask what it was called and then let you know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You got the name?

 

try copper crush nuts. those work out well, can be purchased at atpturbo.