broken timing belt update
well i took off the head expecting the worst, and there was no visable damage to the valves or the pistons. I checked for marks of any sort, and there was nothing. so i bought a neew headgasket, cleaned up the pistons and the valves and put it back together.
Now Im wondering how hard it is to install the new timing belt.I have a chilton manual, but that thing sucks ***. (IE take off timing belt cover, install timing belt, do reverse to finish.....) gay. So anyway, I tried to get the crank pulley off, and its just spinning the pistons and now really doing ****. How do i get this **** off?
Also i aligned the cams with but the up arrows pointing up and the pulley dot up. What else is required once all these things are done. Im scared i might be off by a few degrees and might actually get bent valves.
Thanks for any help guys,
Brian
Now Im wondering how hard it is to install the new timing belt.I have a chilton manual, but that thing sucks ***. (IE take off timing belt cover, install timing belt, do reverse to finish.....) gay. So anyway, I tried to get the crank pulley off, and its just spinning the pistons and now really doing ****. How do i get this **** off?
Also i aligned the cams with but the up arrows pointing up and the pulley dot up. What else is required once all these things are done. Im scared i might be off by a few degrees and might actually get bent valves.
Thanks for any help guys,
Brian
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shawn_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think you need to take the crank pully off...
just line up the crank and camgear and slap on the new belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you do if you want to take the lower cover off.
just line up the crank and camgear and slap on the new belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you do if you want to take the lower cover off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZCHF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i took off the head expecting the worst, and there was no visable damage to the valves or the pistons. I checked for marks of any sort, and there was nothing. so i bought a neew headgasket, cleaned up the pistons and the valves and put it back together.
Now Im wondering how hard it is to install the new timing belt.I have a chilton manual, but that thing sucks ***. (IE take off timing belt cover, install timing belt, do reverse to finish.....) gay. So anyway, I tried to get the crank pulley off, and its just spinning the pistons and now really doing ****. How do i get this **** off?
Also i aligned the cams with but the up arrows pointing up and the pulley dot up. What else is required once all these things are done. Im scared i might be off by a few degrees and might actually get bent valves.
Thanks for any help guys,
Brian</TD></TR></TABLE>
use AIR TOOLS
Now Im wondering how hard it is to install the new timing belt.I have a chilton manual, but that thing sucks ***. (IE take off timing belt cover, install timing belt, do reverse to finish.....) gay. So anyway, I tried to get the crank pulley off, and its just spinning the pistons and now really doing ****. How do i get this **** off?
Also i aligned the cams with but the up arrows pointing up and the pulley dot up. What else is required once all these things are done. Im scared i might be off by a few degrees and might actually get bent valves.
Thanks for any help guys,
Brian</TD></TR></TABLE>
use AIR TOOLS
How do you put on a new belt w/o taking the pulley off? you have to take off the cover to get the belt around the bottom, and you need to take the pulley off to get to the bottom cover.
oh yeah, all this is on a dohc zc
oh yeah, all this is on a dohc zc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZCHF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you put on a new belt w/o taking the pulley off? you have to take off the cover to get the belt around the bottom, and you need to take the pulley off to get to the bottom cover.
oh yeah, all this is on a dohc zc
</TD></TR></TABLE>
once again......USE AIR TOOLS
oh yeah, all this is on a dohc zc
</TD></TR></TABLE>
once again......USE AIR TOOLS
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i actually tried that, turns out the screwdriver wasnt made of very strong metal and bent. i tried a 1/4 extension too and had the same results.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USE AIR TOOLS</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ROFL
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ROFL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZCHF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well after a lot of work, it seems that I will in fact have to use AIR TOOLS.
son of a bitch. now i just need to find some. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well its about ******* time
son of a bitch. now i just need to find some. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well its about ******* time
alright, here it goes, almost sure fire way to get that bitch off without hurting anything except your fingers.
1) buy a breaker bar = 7 bucks harbor freight,
2) buy a deepwell impact socket 17mm = 2 bucks harbor freight
3) buy a large screwdriver 2 bucks = harbor freight
4) pull off the flywheel pan underneath the car. There are 2 bolts that hold this pan on to the oil pan. It is a cover about the size of a half football that is located right where the flywheel bolts to the tranny and motor. Once that is off you will be able to see the bottom of the flywheel.
5) stick a large screwdriver in between one of the teeth and where it would stop the flywheel from rotating when the crank is turned
6) place the socket and the breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt, and crank that ****.(you might need the car really high off the ground to get good enough leverage.
7) off it comes
now I believe that this works the best since it doesnt put very much strain on anything. when the car is in gear it puts stress on the gears and also has too much play in the breaker bar.
hope this helps!
1) buy a breaker bar = 7 bucks harbor freight,
2) buy a deepwell impact socket 17mm = 2 bucks harbor freight
3) buy a large screwdriver 2 bucks = harbor freight
4) pull off the flywheel pan underneath the car. There are 2 bolts that hold this pan on to the oil pan. It is a cover about the size of a half football that is located right where the flywheel bolts to the tranny and motor. Once that is off you will be able to see the bottom of the flywheel.
5) stick a large screwdriver in between one of the teeth and where it would stop the flywheel from rotating when the crank is turned
6) place the socket and the breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt, and crank that ****.(you might need the car really high off the ground to get good enough leverage.
7) off it comes
now I believe that this works the best since it doesnt put very much strain on anything. when the car is in gear it puts stress on the gears and also has too much play in the breaker bar.
hope this helps!
Screw you guys, I'm... going... home.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,950
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From: lovely Raleigh, NC
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dyn0speed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have a buddy sit in the car and step on the brake...put in 1st gear.... then you should be able to take out the crank pully easy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's better to use 4th or 5th gear. Less strain on the tranny gears and fd.
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's better to use 4th or 5th gear. Less strain on the tranny gears and fd.
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ampm
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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May 3, 2007 10:53 PM
chucked the timing belt off.........................................................................
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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