H23 Rebuild: Top-to-Bottom
My little baby had 196xxx miles on her when she bit the dust. I think the motor may have bent a vavle or two.. either way it's time for a full rebuild. I'll find out what killed it when i tear it down.
I'm really interested in what can be done to my h23 with a- lets say- $2000 budget.
I'd like to end up with an all motor street fighter.. shooting for 180 hp.
Need suggestions for:
-Port and/or polish the head?
-Cams (is there anything other than custom regind?)
-Valves- are there any aftermarket high performance springs, valves, retainers, etc?
-Pistons/Rings (do wrist pins come with them or do i have to look at buying them separate?)
Also with the pistons, id like to raise my compression. What kind of honing do i need to do to the block- considering the h23 already has FRM sleeves.. are high comp pistons all oversized?
-Rods/Bearings
-Do i need to modify the crank?
This will all eventually be tuned by a hondata. Should i look into many other fuel upgrades?
Whew, that's a lot.. ive done a lotta research but i'm trying to put all my results together in one place, and perhaps help another Si driver who's taking this into consideration.
So far i've found http://www.raceeng.com which carries some pistons, rods and rings.. i need to build the top end too though.
thanks for reading the long post!
I'm really interested in what can be done to my h23 with a- lets say- $2000 budget.
I'd like to end up with an all motor street fighter.. shooting for 180 hp.
Need suggestions for:
-Port and/or polish the head?
-Cams (is there anything other than custom regind?)
-Valves- are there any aftermarket high performance springs, valves, retainers, etc?
-Pistons/Rings (do wrist pins come with them or do i have to look at buying them separate?)
Also with the pistons, id like to raise my compression. What kind of honing do i need to do to the block- considering the h23 already has FRM sleeves.. are high comp pistons all oversized?
-Rods/Bearings
-Do i need to modify the crank?
This will all eventually be tuned by a hondata. Should i look into many other fuel upgrades?
Whew, that's a lot.. ive done a lotta research but i'm trying to put all my results together in one place, and perhaps help another Si driver who's taking this into consideration.
So far i've found http://www.raceeng.com which carries some pistons, rods and rings.. i need to build the top end too though.
thanks for reading the long post!
Crower has 3 stages of H23 cams out now, and JG has some H23 titanium valves on their site, as well as other valve train stuff. P&P is always a good idea, so long as you know what you want(turbo, NA, etc) and that you get a good place to do it...
My H23 is all-motor right now, and I'm pretty happy with it, but turbo is the goal. I've found some good gains from a lighter flywheel, crank pulley, removing PS and A/C, I/H/E, etc.
If you do go all-motor, you'll have to spend a lot more for power than if you turboed it....180 is pretty optomistic for $2000....
My H23 is all-motor right now, and I'm pretty happy with it, but turbo is the goal. I've found some good gains from a lighter flywheel, crank pulley, removing PS and A/C, I/H/E, etc.
If you do go all-motor, you'll have to spend a lot more for power than if you turboed it....180 is pretty optomistic for $2000....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NatakuBlitz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HMO? Please excuse my ignorance.
honda motors online?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct sir
honda motors online?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct sir
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you do go all-motor, you'll have to spend a lot more for power than if you turboed it....180 is pretty optomistic for $2000....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its still gonna be a daily driver so A/C and P/S will be staying in there. 180 was just an off the top of the head figure.. any reliable gains over stock will please me very much. i loved the power that my h23 had in the first place. What kind of power are you putting down with your n/a build? I will be staying all motor cause i don't want to deal with a turbo.
If you do go all-motor, you'll have to spend a lot more for power than if you turboed it....180 is pretty optomistic for $2000....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its still gonna be a daily driver so A/C and P/S will be staying in there. 180 was just an off the top of the head figure.. any reliable gains over stock will please me very much. i loved the power that my h23 had in the first place. What kind of power are you putting down with your n/a build? I will be staying all motor cause i don't want to deal with a turbo.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NatakuBlitz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its still gonna be a daily driver so A/C and P/S will be staying in there. 180 was just an off the top of the head figure.. any reliable gains over stock will please me very much. i loved the power that my h23 had in the first place. What kind of power are you putting down with your n/a build? I will be staying all motor cause i don't want to deal with a turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly I'm not voluntarily all-motor, just need to save the cash and learn some things before boosting. I haven't dynoed it yet, but it's waaay faster than stock(I have some weight reduction also).
If you want reliable NA, making more power isn't always the only option to going faster. Try some lightweight wheels, flywheel, pulleys, etc.
If you're serious about all-motor, I'd also say try some Crower stage2 or 3's with tuning and you should see 12-20 hp...Hope that helps....
N2O is good, too
Its still gonna be a daily driver so A/C and P/S will be staying in there. 180 was just an off the top of the head figure.. any reliable gains over stock will please me very much. i loved the power that my h23 had in the first place. What kind of power are you putting down with your n/a build? I will be staying all motor cause i don't want to deal with a turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly I'm not voluntarily all-motor, just need to save the cash and learn some things before boosting. I haven't dynoed it yet, but it's waaay faster than stock(I have some weight reduction also).
If you want reliable NA, making more power isn't always the only option to going faster. Try some lightweight wheels, flywheel, pulleys, etc.
If you're serious about all-motor, I'd also say try some Crower stage2 or 3's with tuning and you should see 12-20 hp...Hope that helps....
N2O is good, too
swap in usdm h22 pistons for a higher cr....
crower cams
i have the stage 1 and i like 'em very much
just so you know there was once a N/A h23 auto lude being sold here a while back... that thing put down 200+ whp
crower cams
i have the stage 1 and i like 'em very muchjust so you know there was once a N/A h23 auto lude being sold here a while back... that thing put down 200+ whp
nasty! i do need to rebuild so i'm not <u>just</u> going for power. i'm thinking H22 pistons (need any honing or anything?) and rods and then JG valve train with a p+p job.
I think i'll also upgrade the flywheel and clutch.. (ha, there goes my 2000 dollar budget..) and buy a decent header.
I think i'll also upgrade the flywheel and clutch.. (ha, there goes my 2000 dollar budget..) and buy a decent header.
If you get new rods you might have to replace the rod bearings too if they do not fit right away. Also new rods will probably be for a flaoting wrist pin so you need to find H22A4 pistons or something JDM that is flaoting pin. Also if you go with H22 pistons a light hone and new rings is a good idea.
Crower h23 cams go for over $400 and need an upgraded valvetrain too. So that will probably take a third of your budget. Ask any machine shop about lightening the stock flywheel. I have a shop here that can lighten it for $75. Sure beats a fidanza at $200.
For $2000 I am sure you could get a VTEC head and pistons and balance the whole thing. That is gaurenteed power.
I would also REPLACE the main bearings if you have that many miles on them.
But I would definately balance the whole assembly if you plan on spinning it past OEM redline.
my $0.02
Pirate
Crower h23 cams go for over $400 and need an upgraded valvetrain too. So that will probably take a third of your budget. Ask any machine shop about lightening the stock flywheel. I have a shop here that can lighten it for $75. Sure beats a fidanza at $200.
For $2000 I am sure you could get a VTEC head and pistons and balance the whole thing. That is gaurenteed power.
I would also REPLACE the main bearings if you have that many miles on them.
But I would definately balance the whole assembly if you plan on spinning it past OEM redline.
my $0.02
Pirate
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Crower h23 cams go for over $400 and need an upgraded valvetrain too. So that will probably take a third of your budget. Ask any machine shop about lightening the stock flywheel. I have a shop here that can lighten it for $75. Sure beats a fidanza at $200.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
only stage 2 & 3
stage 1 camshafts can be use w/ stock springs and retainers
Crower h23 cams go for over $400 and need an upgraded valvetrain too. So that will probably take a third of your budget. Ask any machine shop about lightening the stock flywheel. I have a shop here that can lighten it for $75. Sure beats a fidanza at $200.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
only stage 2 & 3
stage 1 camshafts can be use w/ stock springs and retainers
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I'm doing the same thing. Just bought a lude but the h23 is getting rebuilt and swapped into my 95 Accord. One of the best set of cams I've found for the h23 are web cams. Best part.... they're only $311!!!!!! I'm also doing quite a bit of research but anything you share with me would be great. Keep us posted as to how the rebuild is coming.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUB-0 H23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stage 1 camshafts can be use w/ stock springs and retainers
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He probably won't get anywhere near 180hp with Crower stage 1 camshaft without a power adder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TxTuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the best set of cams I've found for the h23 are web cams. Best part.... they're only $311!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are regrinds. If you want to get a regrind it is $170 from crower.
Pirate
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He probably won't get anywhere near 180hp with Crower stage 1 camshaft without a power adder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TxTuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the best set of cams I've found for the h23 are web cams. Best part.... they're only $311!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are regrinds. If you want to get a regrind it is $170 from crower.
Pirate
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