I know you guys freakin hate these posts, and I usually do too. I am looking for a little informed help on the difficulties on doing this swap, we have done a couple of 92-95 plug and plays, never a CRX. What should I look out for? What are some major problems that I may encounter? People who can help please look out a little and lend some knowledge.

As always we plan to do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, plugs, wires, rotor button, cap, clutch, flywheel, axles, brakes, all new fluids, and all HOnda OEM parts. Probably go with the Hasport Mount kit also.

Any other help or links would be mucho appreciated. Only those who know first hand seriously reply. Thanks

 

You will need to put a "dent" into the driver's side frame rail so the alternator can clear it. Also, if the motor you are swapping in has a Y1 tranny and half-shaft, you will need to use SiR axles or change the half-shaft to a 90-93 Teg half-shaft and use 90-93 Teg axles.

 

Just buy this:

http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/...30002

It comes with the mounts and axles. These you will want to use. You can use the SiR axles that comes with this and that should save you a couple hundred in not having to buy axles. (Don't any one tell me you can't. I bought this exact setup and have been running with SiR axles on a 90 Si for 20k+ miles. Just don't forget to take off the dust caps!) You'll also get the rear transmission mount that you will need. This will save you the 50$ it would cost to pick one up from a junk yard of a 90-93 Integra.

Unless you sticking with the stock air box be prepared to relocate the battery to the trunk to a fit an intake. The manifold, or aftermarket header if you get one, will mate up fine with the stock cat. You will need to use a CRX Si harness to hook up the motor. And I am almost sure you can use the SiR harness too. I looked at it and came to this conclusion. Though unless I actually did and it am driving the car with it I won't vouch just yet.

Can't remember much else now. Just make sure you do the timing belt and water pump before you swap it in. Its so damn easy with the motor out. You will also want to put the header on while it is out too. At least if you have a one piece header any way. And have fun beating cars in a highway race, all without having to downshift from 5th!

 

Last time I checked the stock JDM header does not reach the USDM cat. It's short approximately 3 inches and the flange needs to be rotated.

I'm told frequently that you have to modify the crossmember for header clearance, JDM or USDM aftermarket. However, my friend helping me with the swap today just showed me that his B17 swap didn't require that. It has about a half an inch of clearance, but was not necessary to modify. I haven't gotten to the header\cat part of my installation (still in progress), so I cannot speak from experience for the XSi B16 into a CRX.

Whoever said change the timing belt and water pump while it was out and said that the header should be left on when it's dropped in IS 10000% CORRECT! DO IT! ALSO, make sure that you have the intermediate shaft BOLTED ON THE BLOCK when you drop it in, NOT AFTER! It's a bitch and I'm STILL wrenching that mother in.

Save the radiator installation for LAST!

Either get a smaller battery, or relocate it to the trunk.

Tee the extra vacuum lines.

Pin the ECU yourself, **** HASPORTs sub harness, waste of money.

Don't forget to put TRANNY FLUID IN!

Hoses to the radiator...get the right size.

Watch out for the rear mount!

 

also, highly recommend cutting off your front mount on the cross member with a grinder, cutting a slot in the cross member where the header will come down(just on the lip) so it will clear alright, and you will need to pound down the back lip where the back mount will come down, and of course, pound in the drivers side frame rail. I just used a sludge hammer for a good portion of it and a grinder, grinding a slot in the crossmember was one of the best things i did or else putting the set's of headers i've put in would of been a bitch!!!! i would have had to drop the whole crossmember.

also, my battery fits fine in my engine bay, and i do have an intake on it, didn't need to change that at all and the stock exhaust manifold IS too short, 99-00 civic SI header bolts up perfect, i just put one on about 2 weeks ago in my car.

also, when you put the engine in, if you put it in from the top, WAIT to hook up the transmission mount to the transmission until the engine is dropped in to place. you will need to lower it down a little bit, put the mount on and then lift it into place, it won't go in right if you put the mount on first, but if you put it in from the bottom, it's alright to hook that up first to the transmission.

that's about all i can think of right now

 

Thanks guys, very insightful info. Giving me a little more faith in the outcome! Finally, what about the wiring? A few of you said the Si harness would work, and I have read on other sites about adding a few wires. I am not a wiring guru in the slightest form or fashion. How difficult is the wiring, what all does it include, and are there any plug and play style harnesses?

Thanks again.

 

use the stock wiring harness from your si, there are only 4 wires that need to be wired, they are below.

White 2nd O2 sensor C8
Green/Yellow VTEC solenoid A8
Blue/Black VTEC oil pressure B5
Red/Blue Knock sensor B19

don't know if the colors of the wires are the actual colors, but that's what you need and that's the pinouts in the ecu, good luck

 

Okay thanks again.

 

One last bump, thanks for the insight. The EF forum is much more useful than the EG+ forum. Thanks

Swaps for life!

 

anyone else?