I want 9000 RPM. It is going to cost a boat load of money to get there I know....
But, the purpose of this tread is to discuss what should be done to increase RPM's in increments....i.e. I want another 500 Rpm can I do that just with valve springs and retainers? Stuff like that cause I don't see that that much here.

I am personally wondering will a D16's bottom end hold together or be okay for another 800 (8K red) or would you want to build it before?

Edit: Fine more crap.....opinions on the black nitrade valves?


[Modified by Spade, 5:23 PM 11/28/2001]

 

well the d16 has a r/s of 1.52 wich is not the worst but still far away from the desired 1.75 r/s to put it in perspective a gsr has a 1.58 r/s and revs to 8200 and easily can be reved to 8400. so with bigger rods and better valves/springs/retainers the sky is the limit.

 

Do you just think with rods or what about the D16 crank?
I don't know if I added above but I plan on adding deck height and increasing the rod lenght to 157mm which will give me my 1.75:1 R/S ratio.

 

I've spun my Z6 to 8500 rpm, no power up there though.

 

Did ya give it more fuel...ECU mods?

 

not enough air gettin through the head?

 

On a GSR it is no problem to push 9000 + with the proper parts on the head. I have a stock JDM Sir-G bottom end, jun stage 3's, outer springs of off an ITR, inner form port flow, Ti retainers and some cam gears, no port no polish and the whole thing works perfectly, even with my 9200 rev limit. I also over reved it a couple of times by accident and it took the abuse with no problem (thank God). As for the D16 series engines, I would say that it should be no problem for the bottom end to withstand up to 8500 with the propper springs and Ti retainers, but you will have to find the proper cam to use such high rpm, as well as some additional porting and polishing may be required to increase the volume of air required to produce power at such high rpms. Another issure may be with the intake manifold. The plenum part of the intake manifold may not be sufficeintly large enough to be able to support the volume of air required for high reving. And finally there is the tb which is punny and would also have to be upgraded. But wait we are also forgetting the exhaust side of things that would also have to be made appropriate to suit the increased amount of mixture flowing through your combustion chamber. There is one important thing to remember here the whole engine is a system and it has to be balanced so if you do one thing you have to do the other. Just my .02 cents to add to the debate.

By the way very cool topic, props to you man!

 

I was thinking about all of that....want to take it one step at a time.....first concern is the parts being able to handle the speed.....next would be the air and fuel.....fuel is the easy part.....pump/injectors/regulator/rail(maybe).....the ECU will be fun.

Air is another issue all together......Intake would be a new TB from a GSR or some other big breather.....Intake interesting.....(I am typing incomplete cause I am gonna go home from work)......I will think about these things tonight and bring them up tomorrow I am sure.

 

do you or any one else know of someone that makes a cam that makes power till 9k because otherwise I would'nt even bother trying it you will see no gain at 9k w/o the proper cam or you could always go B16A 1.74 R/S ratio and Ive had mine up to 9300 but would love to have a 10-11 k redline

btw not trying to flame ya

 

No flame taken...rofl

Nope, I don't know of a Cam that makes power......that is something that my physics class and other math is supposed to fix.......the problem will be finding someone to make it without charging me an arm and a leg.

 

my taurus have been ran at 8500rpm for LONG periods of time
and has also been to 10k easily well the motor @ test factories

god bless ford letting yamaha make my engine

to bad the engine bay measures smaller then the motor haha

 

we reguraly spin or d16a6 to 9-9.5, ported/polished/milled head, aem cam gear, external blaster 3 coil, no ac, clutchmasters clutch, i/h/e, stripped most of the vacuum lines and sensors, and a f*cked up ecu where the rev limiter comes and goes, i will video tape it revving up and post it on here, since i'm sure you don't believe me, but the car has held up well, it eats plugs, and burned out a valve, but a6 parts are so easy to come by, who cares, btw car ran a best of 14.4@96, and a couple of sportbike riders clocked us at 140+, this is in a 90 crx si

 

I'm dumb... please tell me what removing the vacuum lines and sensors acomplishes?

sorry for the dumb question....

 

It's all good.....on project cars that most people don't drive unless they are racing the less weight the better.......who the hell cares about the SRS system when you have a 5 point harness and a roll cage right!?! So pull all of the sensors and other crap that you don't need for 1/4 mile runs.

 

another "beginner" question. Lets say you build up an engine that can theoreticly take 10,000 rpm. All the parts are rated and you have top notch **** ... how do you actually find out where the redline or close to it is without breaking the engine?

 

I'm also a beginner and have some questions. I have a 99GSR and was wondering exactly how many rpms the stock bottom end can handle. For the top end, I have already purchased a bare B18C5 cylinder head and plan on building it up. I could use any suggestions you all might have. Thanks.

 

Ask others who have tried and listen to there horror stories!

 

now with the cam you might be able to have one custom ground for your app but with that kind of redline you will also need to plan your to have your manifold custom made or find one for single cam that will allow the kind of air flow you need at 10k also your head will need some serious port work done to it, and springs TI retainers also and lets not forget the bottom end but i'm sure you know that. Now remember that this is going to kill your bottom end 1-6k or maybe 1-7k and your engine will also have a narrow power band 7-10k and you will also need proper gearing to make full advantage of the narrow power band. which = lots of money. I have also thought about this for my B16A and even harder after seeing Toda's VTEC killer cams which make power to an incredible 12k!!! but after spending all that loot will it be worth it I'm not sure dont get me wrong I would love to hear and drive a engine that revs to 12k but I dont have that deep of pockets to play like that so I have decided to go B20vtec and FI in the future for my setup yes I know this is also expensive but it is a proven setup to make big numbers and its more of a step by step thing too.

 

rev it until it blows. then build it again and set the rev limiter a few hundred rpm below that.

 

Math. You calculate side wall loading, pistons speeds, piston accelarations, and then compare those calculations with the max forces your parts can handle.

 

I have thought about the CRVtec.....hrmph, This sucks, I guess I am going to just have to study extensive engine building at school instead of Computers

 

A dyno will tell you but there is seat of the pants dyno - you should feel it leaning over and power starting to fall over when it is time to shift. As far as what can be done - people have gone there before so the recipe is clear:

for a b16a, one example is going with Crower upgrade valve springs and titanium retainers, cams that will make power up high (ie ITR or CTR or).

That will deal with 9k, but power starts to lean over at 8800. I shift at 9200 at the track and have so far survived a couple of missed shifts with rpm runover to 10.5k, but am not trying to do that too much...

 

Wow....the engine must make a crazy sound revving that high!

 

Makes it a killer b. Worst part is I still have the exhaust from turbo motor with custom (empty) cat and straight through Dynomax Ultraflow....Go by the cops in LOW rpms!!!!!