2 questions about front brakes > 5th gen accord
1. what are some decent brand names of brakes besides brembo >> i was turned on to SP rotors for about $240 and i want to see if you guys know anything about them >>
2. in order to change the rotors i was told that i need to also change the knuckle >> is this true or can i just remove the rotors and replace them with new ones?
any help would be appreciated
2. in order to change the rotors i was told that i need to also change the knuckle >> is this true or can i just remove the rotors and replace them with new ones?
any help would be appreciated
ever heard of the acura legend 2 piston calliper upgrade...it uses all oem parts, and considerably helps stopping power...i'm currently using this setup with axxis ultimate pads and cobalt friction's rotors...it shouldn't cost you more than $4-500 to do everything...
all you need is:
-95 legend gs sedan 2 piston front callipers
-95-97 accord v6 rotors (aftermarket preferably)
-axxis ultimate pads (personal preference, but a damn good pad)
-calliper brackets from a prelude vtec, 95-02 accord v6, acura nsx, or itr
-stainless steel braided lines for a 95-97 accord v6
and that's it...
also, the rotors are pressed into the hub, which is why you have to remove the entire knuckle to replace them...
all you need is:
-95 legend gs sedan 2 piston front callipers
-95-97 accord v6 rotors (aftermarket preferably)
-axxis ultimate pads (personal preference, but a damn good pad)
-calliper brackets from a prelude vtec, 95-02 accord v6, acura nsx, or itr
-stainless steel braided lines for a 95-97 accord v6
and that's it...
also, the rotors are pressed into the hub, which is why you have to remove the entire knuckle to replace them...
How to replace the brakes:
1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt
2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.
3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.
4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.
5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.
6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.
7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)
8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.
9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.
10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.
11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!
12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt
2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.
3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.
4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.
5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.
6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.
7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)
8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.
9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.
10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.
11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!
12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
Oh btw, autozone rotors are fine too. lots of autox/road race people use those rotors cause they're inexpensive but work fine too. for pads i think axxis ultimates are very good too. i personally have Hawk HPS and they're fine for autox/daily driving.
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integra dave
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Aug 2, 2004 05:50 AM



