test pipe = check engine light
I have a 2000 gsr, with a test pipe... I know there is a way to fool the computer into reading a different voltage from the second o2 sensor, so there will be no more check engine light... can someone fill me in, or post a link... thank you...
I have a 2000 gsr, with a test pipe... I know there is a way to fool the computer into reading a different voltage from the second o2 sensor, so there will be no more check engine light... can someone fill me in, or post a link... thank you...
actually....
Even though you are getting a check engine light for your 2nd 02, your ECU is NOT running in limp/safe mode. It's a little OBD2 Honda secret. The same goes for the Knock sensor as well.
I have a 2000 gsr, with a test pipe... I know there is a way to fool the computer into reading a different voltage from the second o2 sensor, so there will be no more check engine light... can someone fill me in, or post a link... thank you...
actually....
Even though you are getting a check engine light for your 2nd 02, your ECU is NOT
running in limp/safe mode. It's a little OBD2 Honda secret. The same goes for the Knock sensor as well.
actually....
Even though you are getting a check engine light for your 2nd 02, your ECU is NOT
running in limp/safe mode. It's a little OBD2 Honda secret. The same goes for the Knock sensor as well.
Are you sure about this?
Even though you are getting a check engine light for your 2nd 02, your ECU is NOT running in limp/safe mode.

Will

-who liked the extra power... but hated the dirty bumper/risk
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Then what does happen when the CEL comes on? I've got a 98 Civic DX hatch with a test pipe (one of the few good things about life in the sticks) and after about 12 hours of drive time the CEL comes on. When it does, the car gives a little lurch, and feels more sluggish at high rpm's. If I'm lazy, and I don't reset my ECU for awhile, then I notice a 1-2 mpg drop in fuel economy. IMO, it may not be "limp home mode", but it is it some sort of closed loop thing?
thanks for all the replies guys... but no one answered my question.... how do i fool the ecu????? please help... i know you can do it i seen on this site before... one again thanks....
someone on this board said to wrap it in aluminum foil and zip tie it up out of the way. i did it and no codes yet, going on 2 weeks. well, i have some codes now, but thats from the ring land i broke this weekend, not the sensor.
The best thing to do is run a cat... all your going to do is make more noise, and get your car dirty.... BUT, if you are going to run a test pipe, get one without a hole for the sensor, and zip tie it in fresh air... the o2 sensor will think your car is running GREAT, and won't touch a thing...
Dan
Dan
actually it doesn't make more noise lt. dan.
i have a 96 teg powered by a drag3 and i put my second o2 sensor in just where it was supposed to be and haven't gotten a single code yet. Not to mention that my car is actually supper quiet when it comes to exhaust noise. Especially when compared to a mustang or camaro.
i have a 96 teg powered by a drag3 and i put my second o2 sensor in just where it was supposed to be and haven't gotten a single code yet. Not to mention that my car is actually supper quiet when it comes to exhaust noise. Especially when compared to a mustang or camaro.
>>BUT, if you are going to run a test pipe, get one without a hole for the sensor, and zip tie it in fresh air... the o2 sensor will think your car is running GREAT, and won't touch a thing...<<
You'll still get a code. The secondary O2 sensor detects the difference in O2, CO2, and CO levels relative to the primary O2 sensor. The thing is, it's not very good at it. Takes about 12-14 hours run time to finally make up it's mind, then you get a code. I've been living with this for a year now, and it's not that inconvenient. I just reset the ECU. Takes about 30 seconds to unplug the + battery terminal and plug it back in.
As for a fix, there is a way to send the appropriate signal to "fool" the ECU. I can't find the link to the directions!
Looked like a lot of work though, but the parts were fairly cheap (~$15).
You'll still get a code. The secondary O2 sensor detects the difference in O2, CO2, and CO levels relative to the primary O2 sensor. The thing is, it's not very good at it. Takes about 12-14 hours run time to finally make up it's mind, then you get a code. I've been living with this for a year now, and it's not that inconvenient. I just reset the ECU. Takes about 30 seconds to unplug the + battery terminal and plug it back in.
As for a fix, there is a way to send the appropriate signal to "fool" the ECU. I can't find the link to the directions!
Looked like a lot of work though, but the parts were fairly cheap (~$15).
[QUOTE]The best thing to do is run a cat... all your going to do is make more noise, and get your car dirty....
i didnt notice any real noise difference, and the only crap on my bumper came from all the blowby from the ring land i cracked recently
.....but i DID notice a rather large gain in power, and better spool-up.
btw, i have a 3" cat, im just waiting a little longer to see if greddy comes out with its 3" exhaust. otherwise ill just make one and weld it in there.
i didnt notice any real noise difference, and the only crap on my bumper came from all the blowby from the ring land i cracked recently
.....but i DID notice a rather large gain in power, and better spool-up.btw, i have a 3" cat, im just waiting a little longer to see if greddy comes out with its 3" exhaust. otherwise ill just make one and weld it in there.
Check this site:
http://www.eaton-design.com/mustang/mil/
The secondary O2 monitors oxygen in the exhaust stream. It compares the 2nd O2 sensor with the first O2 sensor's output. If they are cycling at the same rate you will get a code for catalyst efficiency below threshold. This is what a test pipe with an O2 bung will cause. If you wrap it in foil you will eventually get a secondary O2 performance code. The second O2 should cycle slowly- indicating that the converter has good oxygen storage. Maybe if you put some snake oil in your tires your MIL will not come on.
http://www.eaton-design.com/mustang/mil/
The secondary O2 monitors oxygen in the exhaust stream. It compares the 2nd O2 sensor with the first O2 sensor's output. If they are cycling at the same rate you will get a code for catalyst efficiency below threshold. This is what a test pipe with an O2 bung will cause. If you wrap it in foil you will eventually get a secondary O2 performance code. The second O2 should cycle slowly- indicating that the converter has good oxygen storage. Maybe if you put some snake oil in your tires your MIL will not come on.
I have a 2000 gsr, with a test pipe... I know there is a way to fool the computer into reading a different voltage from the second o2 sensor, so there will be no more check engine light... can someone fill me in, or post a link... thank you...
actually....
Even though you are getting a check engine light for your 2nd 02, your ECU is NOT
running in limp/safe mode. It's a little OBD2 Honda secret. The same goes for the Knock sensor as well.
Are you sure about this?
actually....
Even though you are getting a check engine light for your 2nd 02, your ECU is NOT
running in limp/safe mode. It's a little OBD2 Honda secret. The same goes for the Knock sensor as well.
Are you sure about this?
actually it doesn't make more noise lt. dan.
i have a 96 teg powered by a drag3 and i put my second o2 sensor in just where it was supposed to be and haven't gotten a single code yet.
i have a 96 teg powered by a drag3 and i put my second o2 sensor in just where it was supposed to be and haven't gotten a single code yet.
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