Well, recently i took my car into my local shop to get my jun head and prospeed header put on my car. After they pull the head, engine looks FANTASTIC. No cylinder scaring, just a tiny tiny bit of wear on one of the cams for cylinder 2.

After the head is assembled and they are getting ready to bolt it back on, they double check everything. They compare OEM h22a headstuds, to my SH headstuds. The threads, and lengths are different. I got to wait an extra day while the right headstuds are overnighted from Arizona, friggin sucks.

Maybe their guy originally ordered the wrong headstuds? but from what they tell me they are different

Anyone deciding to do any type of head work or bottom end work on an SH, be careful of this. Double check your headstuds with the new ones to avoid stripping the threads out of the block.

 

damn that totally sucks the waiting must be killing u

 

I just bought arp bolts and studs for my 99 type sh with the h22a4. The box I have here has 208-4304 h22a prelude 2.2L head stud kit. Why would it be any different? I figure as long as they're for the h22 motor they will work right? What did you order?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe their guy originally ordered the wrong headstuds?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that is what might have happened... Even if they changed the thread pattern for some reason on the h22a4's, the length would still be the same cause it is the same head...

 

I just compared the headstuds to the oem. Of course they're going to be different and longer than the oem headbolt. Did you buy arp? The thread is longer because you actaully use a loose bolt for the arp's. Hope I'm not sounding stupid but the arp headstud will bottom out when you put it in the block because it has a little collar when it wont turn anymore. Well good luck but I think you would've been fine if they're headstuds!

 

208-4304 is the only headstud kit that ARP lists and it says it's for the h22a4 vtec, a seperate one is used for the h23 but I'm sure this is the only one for a h22 prelude!

 

i like honda OEM parts, so does the shop i use.

In any event, they should have them by now and head goes on tonight, im freakin jumping for joy over here.

 

Honda Oem head bolts are garbage if you've got a built motor. Actually compared to the ARP headstuds they're garbage period. When you tighten the oem bolt it puts torque on the bolt as the entire bolt is twisting which is not good. Headstuds are way better because your tightening the bolt from top and the studs don't move causing the load to be much greater ensuring proper torque to seal the headgasket!

 

not exactly a totally built motor, just a jun head and crazy header and hondata.

maybe when i do my bottom end, ill use something different. Until then, im going to trust this shop as they have built many many motors, and some for extreme race applications.

 

Unless you are planning on running boost, especially high boost, or have a beefy *** N/A motor with some super high compression, then you really don't neeeed aftermarket head studs, but it is always a good idea just because they are reusable... Personally, I am running AEBS head studs on my h23a1 with an h22a head...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda Oem head bolts are garbage if you've got a built motor. Actually compared to the ARP headstuds they're garbage period. When you tighten the oem bolt it puts torque on the bolt as the entire bolt is twisting which is not good. Headstuds are way better because your tightening the bolt from top and the studs don't move causing the load to be much greater ensuring proper torque to seal the headgasket!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bullshit. Complete utter bullshit.

Speak from experience, or don't speak at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda Oem head bolts are garbage if you've got a built motor. Actually compared to the ARP headstuds they're garbage period. When you tighten the oem bolt it puts torque on the bolt as the entire bolt is twisting which is not good. Headstuds are way better because your tightening the bolt from top and the studs don't move causing the load to be much greater ensuring proper torque to seal the headgasket!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just curious, how many engineering classes have you taken again?

 

So uh, just how many horsepower is your beast of a car putting down?

 

Dude I don't know what your beef is but if you don't believe me about headstuds verses oem bolts go to ARP's site and read for yourself. It says the exact same thing I was saying about bolts compared to studs. Seriously go there and then you will undertand if I worded it wrong!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude I don't know what your beef is but if you don't believe me about headstuds verses oem bolts go to ARP's site and read for yourself. It says the exact same thing I was saying about bolts compared to studs. Seriously go there and then you will undertand if I worded it wrong! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, I don't doubt you that the ARP's are better than the OEM's; even though you probably only read that from their website and took their word for it.

My beef is that you are spouting off garbage, like how crappy OEM headstuds are. How many motors have you built? How many times have the OEM headstuds failed you?

 

Leave him alone Ludey.... that guy is putting together a 310 NA whp motor by himself to prove us all wrong.

Getting back on topic however.... On the 97 h22a4 blocks the center stud on the intake side will go into the block further than the rest of the studs. The casting on the head however makes up for this allowing equal amount of threads to protrude from the head when installed on the block.

I just tossed out the 01 studs I had laying around, too bad I did not keep them otherwise I would double check this for you.

 

Also I won't know how much hp for sure til I get the block bock from vince and ted at golden eagle. I'll tell you my setup and you tell me what you think. I went from a 87 10 to 1 compression to an 89 mm bore with Je 11.5 to 1 compression forged pistons with Eagle H-beam rods. They're line honing it, O ringing it, decking it, micropolishing the crank, putting all new acl bearings in, and balancing and bluprinting it. The head I chose to have done at Portflow. I had a stage 2 port and polish done with crower stainless steel valves with crower stage 2 cams. I chose all portflow valvetrain and had new ferrea bronze valve guides put in with new valve seals also. The intake manifold and were portmatched on a flowbench out of Mansfield Ohio and I went to a 68 mm bore on my oem throttle body. I'm going to be running the new pro 570 bronze cam gears also! I've got almost every bolt on I can have as far as aem rail, pressure reg, and fuel filter. I'm running a 255 walboro pump with no balancer belt and unorthodox ss pullies. I'm running also aem ems because of the smsp header that will probably most likely run me lean. I'm sure I've forgot stuff but my suspension is koni adjustable yellows with green springs. I've got a stainless high flow test pipe with full stainless steel DC Sports catback. I've got a mugen 160 thermo and fan switch with aftermarket radiator. I'm sure you get the point so you tell me what you think and I'll tell you what golden eagle told me! Also forgot the head was milled .025 so that should bump things up a bit more also!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running also aem ems because of the smsp header that will probably most likely run me lean. </TD></TR></TABLE>


<FONT SIZE="4">HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA </FONT>

Exactly. You only need an EMS when you run the SMS header. Headwork or internals doesn't throw anything else off. lol

 

Hmm..........I'm guessin maybe 210-220 ish at the wheels..........

You had better tune that sucker well!

Your mistake is thinking that the bigger bore and compression will net you huge gains; it won't. While goin up to an 89mm bore will def. make some good, easy horsepower, it will not gain as much as you think it will. Do the math and see how many cc's or CI's you're gaining from that........

Also, the compression is not that high. It's like just over a point over stock. You will gain maybe 15 HP from that alone, but it will complement the cams pretty well. IMO, you should go with a higher CR for those cams, though.

EDIT - just saw the decking part of it: it will bring you higher, but I would be at at least 12:1 for a serious build. Also, be sure they don't take off too much from the head and block or it will screw with the timing components.

You just need to work on your attitude, bud; we're here to help. We don't find it fun to pick on noobs have no clue what they're talking about :giggles:

 

what the **** does that have to do with this thread? you are a moron<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also I won't know how much hp for sure til I get the block bock from vince and ted at golden eagle. I'll tell you my setup and you tell me what you think. I went from a 87 10 to 1 compression to an 89 mm bore with Je 11.5 to 1 compression forged pistons with Eagle H-beam rods. They're line honing it, O ringing it, decking it, micropolishing the crank, putting all new acl bearings in, and balancing and bluprinting it. The head I chose to have done at Portflow. I had a stage 2 port and polish done with crower stainless steel valves with crower stage 2 cams. I chose all portflow valvetrain and had new ferrea bronze valve guides put in with new valve seals also. The intake manifold and were portmatched on a flowbench out of Mansfield Ohio and I went to a 68 mm bore on my oem throttle body. I'm going to be running the new pro 570 bronze cam gears also! I've got almost every bolt on I can have as far as aem rail, pressure reg, and fuel filter. I'm running a 255 walboro pump with no balancer belt and unorthodox ss pullies. I'm running also aem ems because of the smsp header that will probably most likely run me lean. I'm sure I've forgot stuff but my suspension is koni adjustable yellows with green springs. I've got a stainless high flow test pipe with full stainless steel DC Sports catback. I've got a mugen 160 thermo and fan switch with aftermarket radiator. I'm sure you get the point so you tell me what you think and I'll tell you what golden eagle told me! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

For one Ludey asked me what type of hp numbers I was expecting so I told him my mods so if you don't like it don't post on it. Also if precision wasn't dislexic he would see that I never once typed I'd have 310 whp. That is just the number the GE told me to expect with the work I've had done. Actually they said roughly 280-310 to the crank I might add. If I go anywhere around 235-255 with tuning I'll be happy. Like I said before if I wanted to boost it I sure as hell wouldn't went with 11.5 to 1 pistons. I'm not a bad guy and my attitude isn't bad. I'm only repeating what GE told me. How could I predict any numbers with no engine. If you don't believe me that's fine but I do want you to know I didn't make the numbers GE predicted them. Also on the headstuds verses the oem bolts, go to ARP's site if you don't think my above comments about them are true. If I didn't word it good enough for people to make something out of it I'm sorry! I did want to add if you need pics of bolts compared to studs I've got both right here so just let me know!


Modified by preludedriver99 at 1:17 AM 7/29/2004

 

Also precision I didn't buy the aem ems just because I had motorwork. Your stupid comments to me are unjustifiable. I think I'd much rather have ems for tuning purposes than a vafc or stock ecu!

 

you high jacked my thread you dick monster.

See the title? No one cares about your motor in a thread that is about headstuds and headbolts.

So start your own thread, and brag about your setup, fuggin theif.
oh i just looked, 0 posts, 0% you got banned, hahaha!

Hey deckedlude, hows the new setup comming along ? did you hang your nice destroyed rods on your wall ?


Oh by the way, we found another problem (this one is just straight gay) the skunk2 cam gears i got, didnt have the damn keys in them. Time to go skip them off a lake or something