Searched, i seen someone said to use a torch? I am installing a set of coil over springs with a buddy of mine on his 94 civic. The fronts went in no Problemo. The rear lower control arm bolt that hold the strut to it is totally frozen solid. Wont budge, should i heat with a propane torch, or is there another way to get the strut out with out taking this bolt out? . There is a big 3/4" bolt on one side and a 14 or 17mm on the other, does anyone know if the 3/4 in bolt is welded on and does not come off?

 

do the torch thing.

 

if you are not replacing your shock (i recommend you do with agx or yellows), just get the shock out with the lca attach. More than likly, the bolt with snap when you put a long breaker bar and try to force it out. I broke 3 time on 3 different cars The only thing i would be scare of using the torch is buring the bushing if it gets too hot or your get careless.

BTW the nut is weld on

 

I was thinking about taking the whole attachment out, yeah i know he should replace his shocks well, but he doesnt have the extra cash, and he wants to drop it a bit. I am going to try heating it up with a torch, and i will be very careful. If it still doesnt want to move, i am going to remove the whole damn lower control arm. I have Tokiko shocks and ground controlls on my 94 teg. They work great. Thanks for the replys. Anymore suggestions, please let me know. THANKS

 

Break them, get replacement bolts, call it a day.

 

good luck...if the bushing is damage, go to honda and pick a new one up for like 13.50

 

is the 3/4 " nut on the 17mm bolt that goes trough the strut and lca welded to the LCA or strut fork>? or does both the bolt and nut come off>? I just want to know for sure, so i know what i am dealing with.

 

The bolt on the shock fork facing the front of the car is welded on. Give the bolt a few whacks with a big hammer to help break it free. Also spray some PB Blaster on there and let it soak in. If it still won't break free (use foot long breaker bar) then try heating it up.

 

I did break the 3/4 " bolt loose like you said. Tried IMpact, did nothing, Then i tried heating it up and broke it loose with a breaker bar. Then the bolt snapped. Because it was so rusted and mainly because some one put Thread lock in the bushing? So the bolt would not come out of it. So i had to take the whole lower control arm off, press out the bushing, get a new one press it in, then reassemble. Bushing was $24.00 and the bolt that snapped was $13.50 . So what i thought was going to be a 2 hour spring to turned into a 7-8 hour nightmare! I am glad it is all done. For people swapping springs in the future. Fronts are piece of cake. In the rear It is a hell of a lot easier to remove the whole damn Lower control arm, with the strut connected, than to try to get the bolt loose that goes through the Strut fork and LCA. Dont know wether HONDA cements em in or what>! Well thanks for the help.

 

mine were easy to do, i put silicone based grease on the bolts before i put the ish back together, prevents from seizing and rusting since the silicone based is pretty much water proof, if you live near the ocean or a place where it rains a lot, this would be a good investment before you put everything back together.

 

No oceans, i live in Chicago, Home of the shittiest weather around. We use salt on the streets for snow in the winter, i think that has a big deal to do with our cars wearing away. We sprayed the bolts before we reinstalled em, so we could get em out easier next time if needed.