amp stopped working
So the other day i'm pumping some beats, normal levels, then turned my music down. turned it back up about 5 mins later and my sub wasnt working.
On my amp i have two lights, a red ground light and a green juice light. The ground light is on, but not the power one.
I checked all connections and fuses which were good.... if my amp blew, would this ground light still light up?
On my amp i have two lights, a red ground light and a green juice light. The ground light is on, but not the power one.
I checked all connections and fuses which were good.... if my amp blew, would this ground light still light up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the other day i'm pumping some beats, normal levels, then turned my music down. turned it back up about 5 mins later and my sub wasnt working.
On my amp i have two lights, a red ground light and a green juice light. The ground light is on, but not the power one.
I checked all connections and fuses which were good.... if my amp blew, would this ground light still light up?</TD></TR></TABLE> check the sub/subs , disconnect sub/subs from amp, will amp come on properly[ the right lights on, test sub/subs with multimeter,if you don't have one use a batt. 1.5v or better a 9v touch the pos. and neg. speaker wire comeing from sub to the pos. and neg. of the batt,[DO NOT USE THE CAR BATT.] the sub/subs will "pop", [ no"pop" no good ]
hope this helps.
94
On my amp i have two lights, a red ground light and a green juice light. The ground light is on, but not the power one.
I checked all connections and fuses which were good.... if my amp blew, would this ground light still light up?</TD></TR></TABLE> check the sub/subs , disconnect sub/subs from amp, will amp come on properly[ the right lights on, test sub/subs with multimeter,if you don't have one use a batt. 1.5v or better a 9v touch the pos. and neg. speaker wire comeing from sub to the pos. and neg. of the batt,[DO NOT USE THE CAR BATT.] the sub/subs will "pop", [ no"pop" no good ]
hope this helps.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sub is good, its the amp thats not working. Ground light on amp is lit, but power light on amp is not.
Its a PYle</TD></TR></TABLE> Chack all connections , check fuse at batt. on amp power wire, if it is a glass BLF type, it may look good ,but may not be, change it, or bypass it to check.
hope this helps
94
Its a PYle</TD></TR></TABLE> Chack all connections , check fuse at batt. on amp power wire, if it is a glass BLF type, it may look good ,but may not be, change it, or bypass it to check.
hope this helps
94
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Chack all connections , check fuse at batt. on amp power wire, if it is a glass BLF type, it may look good ,but may not be, change it, or bypass it to check.
hope this helps
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<U>I checked all connections and fuses which were good.... if my amp blew, would this ground light still light up?</U>[/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Goddamn can't any of you ******* read? He has already checked the connections, as stated in the very FIRST post.
hope this helps
94</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<U>I checked all connections and fuses which were good.... if my amp blew, would this ground light still light up?</U>[/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Goddamn can't any of you ******* read? He has already checked the connections, as stated in the very FIRST post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SICKSOLVTEC-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Goddamn can't any of you ******* read? He has already checked the connections, as stated in the very FIRST post. </TD></TR></TABLE> Can't you ******* read, we are trying to help him, just because he said he checked, it can't hurt to check again, also we add other things to try
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Chack all connections , check fuse at batt. on amp power wire, if it is a glass BLF type, it may look good ,but may not be, change it, or bypass it to check.
hope this helps 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the **** would we know if the light would stay on, if amp was blown if we don't know for sure he has checked all the other things , I still haven't heard if he tested or bypassed the fuse, or if he even has a BLF type fuse.
and then you come and pop off to us, but you do know what the problem is, right?
So from now on if someone asks for help , we should all answer ,
YEA ITS BROKEN GET A NEW ONE
If you are not even going to try an help **** the **** off.
94
Goddamn can't any of you ******* read? He has already checked the connections, as stated in the very FIRST post. </TD></TR></TABLE> Can't you ******* read, we are trying to help him, just because he said he checked, it can't hurt to check again, also we add other things to try<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Chack all connections , check fuse at batt. on amp power wire, if it is a glass BLF type, it may look good ,but may not be, change it, or bypass it to check.
hope this helps 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the **** would we know if the light would stay on, if amp was blown if we don't know for sure he has checked all the other things , I still haven't heard if he tested or bypassed the fuse, or if he even has a BLF type fuse.
and then you come and pop off to us, but you do know what the problem is, right?
So from now on if someone asks for help , we should all answer ,
YEA ITS BROKEN GET A NEW ONE
If you are not even going to try an help **** the **** off.
94
Fuses are GOOD (regular type). Connections are good. I checked each 4-5 times before making a post.
I dont know much about audio equipment, but it sounds like if a light is working, the amp can't be blown ( at least completely?)
I dont know much about audio equipment, but it sounds like if a light is working, the amp can't be blown ( at least completely?)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuses are GOOD (regular type). Connections are good. I checked each 4-5 times before making a post.
I dont know much about audio equipment, but it sounds like if a light is working, the amp can't be blown ( at least completely?)</TD></TR></TABLE> Ok one more time , how did you check the fuse? just because it looks good, does not mean it is good, even testing with a DVM,[multimeter] can't tell you if it's good, it must be done under load, or just swap it for a new one to be sure. What type of fuse, [regular type] means nothing there are lots of "regular type" fuses, because on your first post you said the red ground light is on but the green "juice" light was not on, one or both of these lights can be on, on some amps, with no more power then the what is supplied by the amp turn on lead, the green light on some amps , means amp is on and everything is ok, red lights mean something is wrong, and most of the time when there is a red light on, it is something wrong after the amp,[ a speaker wire or speaker is shorted out] and the thermal sen.in the amp will turn the amp off [ no green light] that is why I asked you to check by-------
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> check the sub/subs , disconnect sub/subs from amp, will amp come on properly[ the right lights on, test sub/subs with multimeter,if you don't have one use a batt. 1.5v or better a 9v touch the pos. and neg. speaker wire comeing from sub to the pos. and neg. of the batt,[DO NOT USE THE CAR BATT.] the sub/subs will "pop", [ no"pop" no good ]
hope this helps. 94</TD></TR></TABLE> did you try this?
Now if you have checked the subs and and you are positive they are good, and you have checked the speaker wire running from amp to sub box and you are sure it is good, and you have checked power, ground, and amp trigger, and you are sure they are good, and you know for sure that the fuse is good and you have checked all the connections, and you are sure they are good, that only leaves the amp, its blown, hooped, gonewest ,bit the big one, dead, fubared,not working,.
Sorry all I can do.
94
I dont know much about audio equipment, but it sounds like if a light is working, the amp can't be blown ( at least completely?)</TD></TR></TABLE> Ok one more time , how did you check the fuse? just because it looks good, does not mean it is good, even testing with a DVM,[multimeter] can't tell you if it's good, it must be done under load, or just swap it for a new one to be sure. What type of fuse, [regular type] means nothing there are lots of "regular type" fuses, because on your first post you said the red ground light is on but the green "juice" light was not on, one or both of these lights can be on, on some amps, with no more power then the what is supplied by the amp turn on lead, the green light on some amps , means amp is on and everything is ok, red lights mean something is wrong, and most of the time when there is a red light on, it is something wrong after the amp,[ a speaker wire or speaker is shorted out] and the thermal sen.in the amp will turn the amp off [ no green light] that is why I asked you to check by-------
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> check the sub/subs , disconnect sub/subs from amp, will amp come on properly[ the right lights on, test sub/subs with multimeter,if you don't have one use a batt. 1.5v or better a 9v touch the pos. and neg. speaker wire comeing from sub to the pos. and neg. of the batt,[DO NOT USE THE CAR BATT.] the sub/subs will "pop", [ no"pop" no good ]
hope this helps. 94</TD></TR></TABLE> did you try this?
Now if you have checked the subs and and you are positive they are good, and you have checked the speaker wire running from amp to sub box and you are sure it is good, and you have checked power, ground, and amp trigger, and you are sure they are good, and you know for sure that the fuse is good and you have checked all the connections, and you are sure they are good, that only leaves the amp, its blown, hooped, gonewest ,bit the big one, dead, fubared,not working,.
Sorry all I can do.
94
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