As of right now when i test-mount my turbo it wont fit because it hits against the block...i cought wind of a...spacer...to go inbetween the turbo manifold and the engine.

Does anybody know where i can get these? BTW i have a D16. Thanks.

 

grind the block

 

you could do that and it probably would work, but you need to consider how mich money thats going to cost ya. You cant just get any old metal cut some holes in it and expect it work.

IMO, just grind the block.

Jon

 

Like Jared said. Grind some material off the block.

 

**** that dont grind the block...use another flange where the turbo bolts to the manni or something...i wouldnt grind the block...that just dont sound right

 

<Sarcasm>It was just a thought ... Who on Honda Tech has ever grinded there block to fit a turbocharger? I would say one or two people. Not much material on the outside of the block either </Sarcasm>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20luda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** that dont grind the block...use another flange where the turbo bolts to the manni or something...i wouldnt grind the block...that just dont sound right</TD></TR></TABLE>

well if u run another flange behind the mani your gonna have to replace the studs in the head with longer ones in order to get enough thread in the nut. so it would just end up costing more money and being more of a pita

 

Grind it and call it a day.

 

grind it... i have a d-series too i had to do the same

 

Grin-din', when you know what I keep in a lining....


Do it... All the cool kids are grindin'...

Seriously, it's not like they're telling you to poke a hole in the block for your turbo to sit in... You'll probly only remove a small chunk of webbing/reinforcement anyway. It'll be fine

 

reread what i said i said inbetween the turbo and the manifold...not the head and manifold...

 

does grinding the webbing harm the block in any way? cuz i dumped like every penny from my entire highschool career into my engines internals, and im not tryin to fark it up now.

 

i grinded my block for the turbo to fit... obviously don't take out like big chunks of it.

 

I had to grind some of the webbing to get my turbo to fit also.

Its not a big deal, just don't go past the webbing into the actual block.

You could use a spacer between turbo and mani but it needs to be made out of relatively the same metal as the mani that way they have the same thermal dynamics (expansion rates etc....) But this might cost a penny or two if you don't have access to a machine shop.

You can also use another flange between block and mani but like said before, you have to replace your manifold studs with long ones and also remember this will put more stress on those bolts and mani. (Possible additional mani/turbo bracing might be needed.

To sum it up, grind the block or buy a different manifold that make you not have to. Did you try rotating the housing on the turbo some more to maybe clear the block?

 

My Revhard kit on my LS required the use of a cast spacer, I still had to trim the webbing a bit though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20luda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** that dont grind the block...use another flange where the turbo bolts to the manni or something...i wouldnt grind the block...that just dont sound right</TD></TR></TABLE>

What a Noob, If you have the compressor side towards the passenger side then you will have to grind the webing off the block a little. Unless of cause you have a tiny turbo which fits.

or if you want you can aim the compressor side towards the driver side and it will clear. The questions do you have A/C?? What manifold do you have??

I am using the cast RevHard mani, and had to grind some off the block. Hell everyone does this **** it ain't going to hurt.

 

And I suppose cramming air and fuel into an engine sounds right? Or fitting an engine from a different model into a civic sounds really really right. If you were unsure of the question, state so in your post, don't jump to conclusions.

Most kits require the block to be grinded down a bit. I think the Greddy kits are the only ones that don't. My Drag kit required grinding too. Dont' worry about it, by now you probably sunk too much into your setup to switch to a greddy kit.

So go for it and enjoy the rush you are bound to feel when it is all up and running. You can find lots of information here on HT if you are in need of help. Don't forget to tune the thing. I myself haven't gotten around to a tuning session yet, but I did get it chipped with Crome.

Either that or Uberdata would be a good budget choice, the afc hack was too rough for my tastes.

Good luck.

 

when you get a manifold you need to make sure it is for the turbo you have.

Many of the manifolds made out there such as Drag, RevHard, Greddy designed their manifolds on a turbo with a 5 bolt exhaust housing (meaning downpipe has five bolts) if you try to fit a turbo with a four bolt exhaust housing or vice versa, sometimes it will place the turbo WAY to close to the manI (this is because the angles of the housings on the turbo are different), so close you would have to grind past the webbing and literally into the block. Other companies such as maxrev and maybe others can't think right now designed their manifold to fit with a 4 bolt exhaust housing turbo. Make sure you have the right turbo to right mani and usually you have no problems. Unless you have a big turbo like myself.......

 

i have a Prescision SC50...im looking into the manifold/bolt shat that u told me about...

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

 

oh and just incase, where can i find a spacer?