Man I'm in the process of spraying my LS rims gunmetal with a polished lip. I did the front and put them on and I proceeded to the rear wheels. Goddamn stud broke off. I know its ok to run on 3 but I want this fixed ASAP. Is it possible to do it myself? This is on a 91 integra rear passenger side. Thanks!

 

great opportunity to replace some rotors IMO

 

oh yea i did this once on a turbo mazda mx6 i had. you can go to your local honda dealer and buy a new stud. and g1_teggy is right, it sounds like a good time to upgrade some rotors...maybe cross slotted or something

 

well yes it is possible to do it yourself. theres a thread on here somewhere showing you step by step on how to do it. just do a search and you'll find it. basically, you gotta take off everything, rotor, hub, etc... thats just for the front though the back i heard is a little easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geeser01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yea i did this once on a turbo mazda mx6 i had. you can go to your local honda dealer and buy a new stud. and g1_teggy is right, it sounds like a good time to upgrade some rotors...maybe cross slotted or something </TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't really need crossed slotted rotors, the brembo blanks would do just fine.

 

you can get lug nut studs at advance auto parts for like a quarter a piece and just pull off ur rotor and yank it out u should be able to unscrew it from the other side

 

is it screwed in or pressed in?

 

also how tight should I tighten my lugs. i'm using a half inch socket/ratchet. I dont want to tighten them too much. There tight enough by my strength but shold I step on it and make it tighter?

 

go til you strip it then back it off a quarter turn

 

i believe its 80 pounds/ft
I have had 2 studs snap off in the past month....It sucks...

 

Make sure it is pretty tight. BY HAND, DONT USE AIR. I never torque them, I just make they're good and tight. I've never snapped a lug stud. I have friends that have. Every one of them used impacts when they tighten thier lugs, even after I warned them. Those friends don't anymore. If you are going to have to get a new stud you should replace all of them. The other 3 are probably weak as well. When you get new studs in there, you will have to go in and re-torque them a few times becuase of stretch.

 

but how can I replace them myself? Is it hard? If its too much trouble I'll send it to a shop but if its not let me know guys...

 

i just did this last weekend on my passaenger rear,

1. take wheel off
2.. remove caliper,pads,caliper bracket...
3.. i didnt need to remove the rotor,just tap out the old broken stud..
4..insert new stud in from behind,tap it in as much as pusible,i used a hammer and socket extension..
5..then place a closed end wrench around the stud,tighten the lug nut down with the wrench inbetween the lug and stud(helps from tightening the nut into the rotor) get it to pull the stud as far through as posiible..
6.. now unbolt the nut from the stud,replace caliper bracket,pads,then caliper..
7..slap that wheel back on,go for a drive then recheck the tourque on all the studs of that wheel u were just working on...
8...call it day.. worked fine for me on my 96 ls..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NYCz DA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also how tight should I tighten my lugs. i'm using a half inch socket/ratchet. I dont want to tighten them too much. There tight enough by my strength but shold I step on it and make it tighter? </TD></TR></TABLE>

don step on it to make it tighter,thats how i snapped mine,then realized it really doent take much effort to get to 80 ft/lbs of torque,,by hand is fine.....

 

Thanks for the info!

 

what about the front end though? my threads are stripped, so i wanna replace all 8 front end lug studs and lug nuts...any idea how much it will cost from like advanced auto or autozone

 

i just called autozone...its $0.99 for the stud, and $1.49 for the nut...is that a good deal?

 

that sounds about right

 

I just went to NTB (National Tire & Battery) when I snapped mine. They do up to 5 studs for $50 and they have the slide hammer so you don't damage your bearing... I don't think it's a bad deal at all.

 

is it any different when doing the rear ones? Cuz I broke a rear stud. If its as simple as removing the tire and banging it out and replacing it I'd do it myself.

 

up

 

fronts require u to remove the rotor and hub.not easy at all..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NYCz DA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it any different when doing the rear ones? Cuz I broke a rear stud. If its as simple as removing the tire and banging it out and replacing it I'd do it myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>I haven't broken a rear one, but it LOOKS like there's enough room to do it just like you said. Well, you do have to take the brake caliper & rotor off...

 

the rotor didnt need to be taken off when i did my rear broken stud last weekend..just the brakes..

 

great... I think i need pads too. I guess this weekend I'll do the rear pads and bang that stud out. I just hope its safe to drive on 3 lugs for now.