Quick release hubs: hex, spline, or the new JDM tyte ball bearing?
Sorry for my sarcasm...but I only see the ball bearings one being sold as cosmetic items. But anyways. I've heard many say that their hex/spline drive quick release hubs will slowly get more and more play over time, but usually in the in/out direction. So searching Google brought me to the H-T misc/cosmetic sponsor specials forum.


Will the spring loaded ball bearings result in less play? Seeing that they'll be able to "adapt" to changes since they're spring loaded? Here's another manufacturer on eBay, with the same concept.

Discuss.


Will the spring loaded ball bearings result in less play? Seeing that they'll be able to "adapt" to changes since they're spring loaded? Here's another manufacturer on eBay, with the same concept.

Discuss.
See this thread for a little more info.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=270965
If it's a street car, you probably want a release with very little to no play at all. If it's a race car, and even if it has a little slop, you won't notice it when you're driving. The only time I notice the play in mine is when I sit there and tug on the wheel. Unfortunately, I don't have any first-hand experience with the ball bearing release.
$.02
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=270965
If it's a street car, you probably want a release with very little to no play at all. If it's a race car, and even if it has a little slop, you won't notice it when you're driving. The only time I notice the play in mine is when I sit there and tug on the wheel. Unfortunately, I don't have any first-hand experience with the ball bearing release.
$.02
I have the LTB splined quick release hub and it had ball bearings in it as well. They retract and release the steering wheel when you pull up on the quick release collar, so I don't think they actually "adjust" or anything like that.....they are more "lock," "unlock."
The way I see it is if the spring mechanism were to fail then the wheel would just spin in the cup. If you have something that has a hex or spline shaft then if the release mechanism fails you can still steer the car.
If it's a race car, and even if it has a little slop, you won't notice it when you're driving.
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Agree, mine is hex-type and has just a little slop but I never notice it while moving.
[/QUOTE]
Agree, mine is hex-type and has just a little slop but I never notice it while moving.
I have the LTB piece too and was a little worried about the slop when I installed it. I have NEVER noticed it on the track, however.
K
K
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I've used the LTB hex release and was happy with it. Minimal "slop" that I never noticed on track. The only time I ever noticed it was on the street when I would hit a bump - while barely holding my hand on the wheel.
With the hex adapter, it is harder to initially get everything lined up to get the wheel straight (compared to a splined adapter), but once you do, it's much easier to get the wheel back on straight.
With the hex adapter, it is harder to initially get everything lined up to get the wheel straight (compared to a splined adapter), but once you do, it's much easier to get the wheel back on straight.

IMExperience- No play in the above.
We use a currently Sparco spline type that has gotten loose...but isnt noticable on the track like someone already said.
There was a ball bearing type in AUTOBACS that I checked out. It was inexpensive but I had problems quicky realeasing it, and I couldnt tell if it was completely locked or not. Doesn't qualify for on my list of alternatives (on a racecar)
Dennis "Back to Work" Caco
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used the LTB hex release and was happy with it. Minimal "slop" that I never noticed on track. The only time I ever noticed it was on the street when I would hit a bump - while barely holding my hand on the wheel.
With the hex adapter, it is harder to initially get everything lined up to get the wheel straight (compared to a splined adapter), but once you do, it's much easier to get the wheel back on straight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm using the LTB splined release. It had a decent amount of play in it when I first bought it. Now about 15 months or so later, there is maybe 3/16" of front/back play, and a considerable amount of side/side wobble. I took it apart once, because it jammed on me and I couldnt remove the wheel. I'm actually getting concerned about my safety now, and I'm going to retire this piece to a car that doesn't get driven on the street.
I noticed that most cars I see in the paddock use the hex type release, so I would use that.
With the hex adapter, it is harder to initially get everything lined up to get the wheel straight (compared to a splined adapter), but once you do, it's much easier to get the wheel back on straight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm using the LTB splined release. It had a decent amount of play in it when I first bought it. Now about 15 months or so later, there is maybe 3/16" of front/back play, and a considerable amount of side/side wobble. I took it apart once, because it jammed on me and I couldnt remove the wheel. I'm actually getting concerned about my safety now, and I'm going to retire this piece to a car that doesn't get driven on the street.
I noticed that most cars I see in the paddock use the hex type release, so I would use that.
This Is the best we have tried has no play whatsoever even after 2 years.
The 3405 model
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/115.pdf
The 3405 model
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/115.pdf
To remove the fore/aft play in the hex type adapter, I installed several rubber washers, cut with a hexagon center, over the male hex. These totalled about 1/16" thick.
Now when you attach the female portion, it butts against the rubber washers and puts enough force on the unit to take up the slight slop between the male groove and the female's ball bearing.
Only slight pressure is needed to attach the unit and it still allows the ball to retract smoothly. I still test the unit every time I install the wheel by tugging on it to ensure the ball bearing is seated in the groove.
I have tried the multi-spline units and experienced less overall 'play' than the hex style. However, they were considerally more expensive when I tried to source one and instead chose the hex. Would do so again.
rdj
Now when you attach the female portion, it butts against the rubber washers and puts enough force on the unit to take up the slight slop between the male groove and the female's ball bearing.
Only slight pressure is needed to attach the unit and it still allows the ball to retract smoothly. I still test the unit every time I install the wheel by tugging on it to ensure the ball bearing is seated in the groove.
I have tried the multi-spline units and experienced less overall 'play' than the hex style. However, they were considerally more expensive when I tried to source one and instead chose the hex. Would do so again.
rdj
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