what oil do u use on initial start up
what grade oil do u use on initial startup after a motor build? i have 2 theories:
1: use thick oil which would minimize the metal to metal contact
2: use thin oil so it gets to the thin layers of metal to metal.
sorry mod if this doesnt fit in this forum. i couldnt decide to put it here, forced induction or general forum.
1: use thick oil which would minimize the metal to metal contact
2: use thin oil so it gets to the thin layers of metal to metal.
sorry mod if this doesnt fit in this forum. i couldnt decide to put it here, forced induction or general forum.
You should have used assembly lube durring the build, which would prevent any extra wear from having no oil upon startup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98B00STED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what grade oil do u use on initial startup after a motor build? i have 2 theories:
1: use thick oil which would minimize the metal to metal contact
2: use thin oil so it gets to the thin layers of metal to metal.
sorry mod if this doesnt fit in this forum. i couldnt decide to put it here, forced induction or general forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both of your theories are wrong. Use a light oil so that is is easier to pump, thus lubricating your engine quicker. Be sure to pre fill your oil filter also, as it can hold quite a bit of oil.
1: use thick oil which would minimize the metal to metal contact
2: use thin oil so it gets to the thin layers of metal to metal.
sorry mod if this doesnt fit in this forum. i couldnt decide to put it here, forced induction or general forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both of your theories are wrong. Use a light oil so that is is easier to pump, thus lubricating your engine quicker. Be sure to pre fill your oil filter also, as it can hold quite a bit of oil.
Use Dino Oil 10w-30 or 5w-30 Personal preference.. I used 5w-30
cheap oil like 2bux a Liter (Sorry but that's cheap in Japan)
You'll have to change your Oil several times (the more often the better)during the break in period.
Prime the engine for a few Minutes to get the Oil FLowing and all over the palce.
I actually used Assembly Lube when putting the engine together. It's a THICK Red Lube that sticks well to engine parts. The Machine Shop Sprayed a thin coat od oil inside the cylinders when the Engine was Machined. I also added some CAM Shaft Formula By Crower. It's supposed to lessen the wear on the Cams.
cheap oil like 2bux a Liter (Sorry but that's cheap in Japan)
You'll have to change your Oil several times (the more often the better)during the break in period.
Prime the engine for a few Minutes to get the Oil FLowing and all over the palce.
I actually used Assembly Lube when putting the engine together. It's a THICK Red Lube that sticks well to engine parts. The Machine Shop Sprayed a thin coat od oil inside the cylinders when the Engine was Machined. I also added some CAM Shaft Formula By Crower. It's supposed to lessen the wear on the Cams.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should have used assembly lube durring the build, which would prevent any extra wear from having no oil upon startup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did that i just wanted to know what everyone is using as far as oil is concerned. what do u mean by priming? put the key in ON position (like when u hear the fuel pump go on)?
i did that i just wanted to know what everyone is using as far as oil is concerned. what do u mean by priming? put the key in ON position (like when u hear the fuel pump go on)?
Pull out sparkplugs, and turn engine over until it builds up oil pressure. Put plugs back in and fire up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98B00STED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do u mean by priming?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98B00STED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do u mean by priming?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EliteCivicX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i go with synthetic!</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't want your rings to seal.
If you don't want your rings to seal.
castrol has a new formula, they say is perfect for this application... its called goodstart or something
94 teg LS SEDAN!! yes because sedans are cooler!
green and tan, stock everything and can make anyone eat dust, its not just the engine, its how you drive.
94 teg LS SEDAN!! yes because sedans are cooler!
green and tan, stock everything and can make anyone eat dust, its not just the engine, its how you drive.
why would you tell him to not use sythetic... its better and more stable... the only thing about sythetic is that is more expensive but its also better for the enviroment because its recycled oil, reformulated to be more stable and last longer than it did the first time around. it doesnt freeze in the winter either.. so cold starts are a thing of the past...
why would you tell someone to not use syntheic? did you know that the earthquakes in cali are because we removed the oil lubricant from the earth over there? the only way to stop it is to pt it back? the only way we can begin to do that is to first stop taking more out... think of the earth as a siezing engine... one you redlined with no oil in it... use synthetic.. it saves lives.
why would you tell someone to not use syntheic? did you know that the earthquakes in cali are because we removed the oil lubricant from the earth over there? the only way to stop it is to pt it back? the only way we can begin to do that is to first stop taking more out... think of the earth as a siezing engine... one you redlined with no oil in it... use synthetic.. it saves lives.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UmaycallmeQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you tell him to not use sythetic... its better and more stable... the only thing about sythetic is that is more expensive but its also better for the enviroment because its recycled oil, reformulated to be more stable and last longer than it did the first time around. it doesnt freeze in the winter either.. so cold starts are a thing of the past...
why would you tell someone to not use syntheic? did you know that the earthquakes in cali are because we removed the oil lubricant from the earth over there? the only way to stop it is to pt it back? the only way we can begin to do that is to first stop taking more out... think of the earth as a siezing engine... one you redlined with no oil in it... use synthetic.. it saves lives.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Synthetic doesnt seal the rings, end of story. If you want to use synthetic for a break in be my guest and welcome to the world of blowby.
why would you tell someone to not use syntheic? did you know that the earthquakes in cali are because we removed the oil lubricant from the earth over there? the only way to stop it is to pt it back? the only way we can begin to do that is to first stop taking more out... think of the earth as a siezing engine... one you redlined with no oil in it... use synthetic.. it saves lives.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Synthetic doesnt seal the rings, end of story. If you want to use synthetic for a break in be my guest and welcome to the world of blowby.
Why would anyone recommend to use synthetic upon break in? Seriously guys you shouldn't post. That's not a good idea.
Use a mineral based oil ALWAYS upon break in. I thought everyone knew this.
Use a mineral based oil ALWAYS upon break in. I thought everyone knew this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sack Master »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would anyone recommend to use synthetic upon break in? Seriously guys you shouldn't post. That's not a good idea.
Use a mineral based oil ALWAYS upon break in. I thought everyone knew this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Use a mineral based oil ALWAYS upon break in. I thought everyone knew this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm rebuilding my Accord right now. The pistons are installed (sprayed a light coat of WD40 on the cylinder walls when installing them. Do I need to lube the cylinders somehow before I put the head on?
Yes, I slathered a bunch of oil on my cylinder walls before installing the pistons, and again before throwin on the head and oil pan.
For break in, I use 10W-30 dino oil.
Synthetic will be too "slippery" and will prevent the friction that you need to break in the motor. If you don't get that friction, things don't mate together well, and you get blowby.
For break in, I use 10W-30 dino oil.
Synthetic will be too "slippery" and will prevent the friction that you need to break in the motor. If you don't get that friction, things don't mate together well, and you get blowby.
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