Im planning to build a GSR motor with eagle stroker kit (82mm piston ,rods ,95mm crank) for dailly driving arround 12ish:1 CR , with AEBS mani ,70mm TB and some "FAT" Cams
I wonder why theres a lot of peeps out there say NO to eagle crank for dailly use.
Whats wrong with it ?? Was it so weak and fragile ?? bad material or forging process ?? or the journal wear the bearing quickly?? eazy to crack ?? or theres another reason such as R/S ratio?? (im not planning to rev it pass 8500)
I heard that Endyn and some Tough guy out there succesfully running Eagle Crank in their car
I've already search about the reason people not using it on the daily driving car, but im not find a technical reason about it
And im not looking for an answer like : "Dont use it or motor will go KABOOM" or "It was Cheapo parts ,and cheapo never good" or even "i heard bad story about this crank from a friend of my neighbour cousin"
I need a satisfying technical answer.

And i not plann to go Re-sleeve for big bore like 85 or 86 , because i dont life in america ,there'is no machine shop that has a sleeving quality like Darton Sleeve ,RS , Golden Eagle in my country

If you have an experience with Eagle crank ,please tell me about it


Thanks

 

from what i've heard, from Endyn and a few others, one main problem with the Eagle cranks is that Eagle doesn't plug the oil holes when they grind the journals. this allows lots of metal to get inside, of which it's nearly impossible to remove enough for safe operation.

rumor has it that one local shop blew 5 identical blocks in one month using the 95mm Eagle crank, and it was likely not their machine work or installer error. in every case, the failure was from spun bearings.

i'd try the Crower or Scat cranks, and if those aren't available and you need ~95mm, i'd rather have a good shop weld and grind an OEM stock Honda crank to spec before i'd touch an Eagle crank.

 

arrgghhh..... anymore ??
where can i see scat crank?? how is the price of scat??
any real life experience with scatt crank??
crower was too damn expensive ( it was arround $2500ish )

 

I am currently using the Eagle Stoker 95mm, 84mm sleeved and built by RS machine. There's alot of torque, I haven't dyno the motor, yet. I use it for everyday driving with no problem. I will post my set-up, soon.

 

wow, theres a good news for the stroker kit lover
kazino42 , how long and how mani miles you've been with that crank?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Carlo Gambino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arrgghhh..... anymore ??
where can i see scat crank?? how is the price of scat??
any real life experience with scatt crank??
crower was too damn expensive ( it was arround $2500ish )</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's for the billet crank, list price on their forged 95mm crank is $808.92

http://www.crower.com/cgi-bin/...95266

 

Your motor might not last that long due to the rod ratio.

 

I had the motor for over a year, I probably got over 5000 miles on it. Ran at Woodburn, Or. last year on my 92 Civic Si, ran a best of 13.4et and also won the dyno challenge 194hp and 140lb flat torque starting around 3k. The motor shoud of push more than I expected. Almost the same set-up that RS machine built for somebody else, when I was down @ the shop last year, they had a dyno sheet pushing 250hp and 170lbs torque. Last winter I pulled the motor out and notice that the valve seals was leaking oil on the intake side. Took the head to the machine shop to get the seals replaced. Machine shop called back and told me that I had 2 bent valves. Come to find out that the valve guides where all bad, you can actually wobble the valves. I end up using another GSR head and built a B18c block with CTR pistions and ran a best 13.4 on a 93 Cx. Last week, I pulled my motor out and put the stroker back in. Damm you can really feel the torque, tire will break loose @ 3k rpm. I will be running the car July 10th here in Boise and try to get it dyno next week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Carlo Gambino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im planning to build a GSR motor with eagle stroker kit (82mm piston ,rods ,95mm crank)</TD></TR></TABLE>


why are you only going to use 82 mm piston???........i would only stroke a motor when you have nothing left to bore or whe you are close to the bore limit (about 85.5mm or 86mm)
and you definitely have ALOT of sleeve left to get bigger pistons...

you can still get a big motor without stroking and it will save you the headache or figuring out the right rods and pistons to make everything work.....
85 mm bore x 89 mm stroke = 2020cc (stock stroke)
82 mm bore x 95 mm stroke = 2006cc (eagle crank)

i would think stock stroke and big bore would definitely be better in this case...

5 minutes later.....

ok i didnt read your whole post.....but there have been plenty of 1.8l stock bore engines with factory pistons that have created plenty of power on very shitty fuel (91octance)....i would recommend scraping the whole stroker project and just do a type r block with a really good head.....
simplicity should be used whenever possible.....

82 mm bore is pretty thin on a stock sleeve to be using a crank that large of a stroke....
(increased sideloading+ weaker overbored stock sleeves= something that is going to give you headaches....)

dont mean to sound like an *** or anything...just trying to help



Modified by SUPERNATURAL at 8:00 PM 6/30/2004

 

thanks for all of your replies, but i still have a desire about the 95mm crank that im sure the torque will be so tempting (and i dont plan to rev-it high above 8300ish).
may be i'll plan to run crower stroker kit (it only different arround $500, eagle $1700 and crower $2200) and i can sleep at night without thinking blowing motor.....
But im still wonder how is the R/S ratio will be if we move the piston pin boses up, for a longger rod. (crower didnt tell the whole story about the Rod length etc on the website ,but they say we can custom order this with their stroker kit)
any information about this? max rod lenght? how far we can move the piston pin bose up?

Thanks

 

I would worry more about the 82mm bore, should invest in sleeving and while you're at, bore it 84-85mm. Stock sleeve will probably give out first with the 95 stroke, that's why I got my sleeve.

 

if you're going to spend that much on a crank, just spend it on a resleeve. save some $ to ship the block to the US and back.