hey,

i read a couple threads some people say they have cooling problems..

I saw one n the recent summit magazines saying its perfect with the cooling system.

Ive heard there only needed for 400+ whp?

if your going to build a motor and your not going to sleeve, should u get a blockguard?

Pros and cons?

So far im leaning at its a waist of money....BUT PLEASE DONT TELL ME ITS A WASTE OF MONEY IF U HAVE NEVER USED ONE.

 

Bump... Anyone?

 

I've never heard of problems with the golden eagle blockguard, if your not going to sleeve it, why not have the extra security? It's only 94.99 for the Golden Eagle blockguard.
http://store.import-palace.com...D=442

 

the block guard is not necessary for all motor applications... it is better suited for stock sleeved blocks for mild turbo applications...

 

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com kicks a$$

 

I put in an AC Autotech blockgaurd in my B17A when I rebuilt it with high comp. and highlift, and I have never had a cooling problem because of it! Though it may be overkill for allmotor, I felt like a hundred bucks wasn't bad for a little extra insurance.......

 

Why is a block guard overkill for an allmotor app? It gives the sleeves more stability up around 9500 rpm. just my two cents

 

Make sure you can hone the cylinders after installing one.

 

cylinder distortion from a block gaurd?? ive always wondred about that, a few motors ive replaced had block gaurds and excessive ring wear, is there a correlation??

 

Lets revive this thread and see about this...<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000ekhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cylinder distortion from a block gaurd?? ive always wondred about that, a few motors ive replaced had block gaurds and excessive ring wear, is there a correlation??</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

b20 sleeves seem to crack right where they meet at the top. id think that these would help them from cracking.

 

good insurance.. not everyone likes it...

 

up for more info on honing afterward-- always necessary?

 

personally i would recomend it. its a 50 50 thing ive noticed that the sleeves tend to distort making the pistons rings not seal as much causing blow by in the exhaust and lower compression. I have 2 freinds with this problem one motor is a gsr and one an ls. I also have another freind who doesnt have a problem with it. so if your going to go that far for added insurance you might as well hone the cylinders

 

cant pull the motor-- no time
so if i HAVE to get the hone--- id rather not use the guard.

 

experienced engine builders have told me that sleeve cracks start mid sleeve and not at the top.

on a different note, some honda engines, nameley certain H22a's and the H23A1 have a closed deck design, which in theory, would make the engine over heat at the top of the cylinder since it acts exactly like a blockguard.

IMO, its not worth it. sleeve the block or nothing at all.

 

im not worried about cracking sleeves, im worried about sleeves shifting

 

i have a blockguard on my lsvtec, i was told by the guy that put it in that it prevented the top part of the sleeves from moving.

 

When my freind had his gsr motor rebuilt, he had it honed for .25 over then the machinist put the blockgaurd in and the walls became out-of-round, so it was then bored to 82mm before they were round again.
I want to use the block gaurd also but cant afford a non honda piston at this time,I was wondering if I had the gaurd pressed in before the hone would it be possibly to retain .25 over? Any comments welcomed.

 

Lets shift the topic slightly from blackguards to block posting.

Posting seems like a fantastic idea, but I wonder if that too would somehow shift the sleeves over time...

 

As Rocket said,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you can hone the cylinders after installing one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-If you install a block guard correctly, you will have no problems. Just make sure you <U>install it properly and then bore/hone </U>the block.

-Some people say you somtimes need to grind a bit off before istalling it (for fitment)- Anyone have any experience with this?

-Are they necessary? - For a boosted/n2o application- definetaly - protection against detonation is very important.- For an all motor application, they're probably not 100% necessary, but if you're spinning the motor beyond 9000rpms with 11.5:1 + compression, it's certainly not a bad idea. and honestly, once the block is apart- why not? it's not very expensive and as the saying goes 'better safe than sorry.'

-As for cooling problems, use the STR design for best cooling... if not, at least use one with holes in it =P -- If you buy a nice block guard, cooling shouldn't be an issue.

I think block guards are a nice, inexpensive alternative to sleeving when sleeving isn't 100% necessary, ie low boost, n2o, high-comp all motor.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gsrturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">up for more info on honing afterward-- always necessary?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<U>YES</U> - if you want to prevent problems (like disfigured cylinders)

 

if properly installed what harm can it do? as long as its installed correctly you will have no problem. so if properly installed what are the con's?

 

none really except people depend on them rather than good tuning in the past-

i think tuning motors has become more mainstream now than before-- still an issue for backyard/shade tree mechanics that dont tune and slap parts together like leggos