Ok, yes, I have searched, and read up on most of what is out there in the archives.

I have this problem that I can't seem to nail down. Hesitation once warmed up, for example when cruising at most any speed, in any gear, 5-15% throttle, and then you give it more gas, and it hesitates badly until it decides to 'catch' and I can wind her up right to red line without hesitation, pulls great.

From what I have read in the archives, there have been a number of similar experiences that people have isolated to the KS. My question concerning the KS is it has not thrown me a code for the KS, and others have had that experience as well, and the thing was bad.

What I would like to try, is basically just unhooking the damn thing, for no more than a short drive, like my normal 20 mile drive home, where I would be able to tell if it made a difference or not. Now I know it will probably throw me a code 23 for that, but will it really hamper performance? I know I have never had an issue with VTEC engaging, and others have said it won't prevent the motor from running 'normally'.

Thoughts? Other ideas? I'm open to suggestions.

Setup: Rebuilt motor last summer, new Type-S pistons, rings, Eagle rods, Crower stage 2 cams/springs/retainers, Apexi V-AFC tuned, Manual tensioner conversion, and the basic bolt ons: I/H/E/P

 

When i suspected the k/s for some problems i had on the dyno, someone(sharkcohen, iirc) told me to disconnect the k/s and see if the hesitation goes away. I wouldn't think driving with it unplugged would cause any problems. I believe it can only pull timing below 4 or 5k rpms anyway. The only thing you have to consider is whether or not it will put you in limp mode, which i doubt it will.

 

Your comments are what I expected, and helpful, especially the 4-5k thing, because I have not noticed the hesitation above 4k, and I have read it will not put you into limp mode.

Thanks, pulling that damn wire today!

 

let us know what your findings are...

 

Absolutely, this is really getting on my nerves......

 

dirty injectors?

 

Runs like a champ when it gets above 4k, I've been running the AmsOil injector cleaner in every other tank full, so maybe? I've also been told it may be a dirty fuel filter, that prevents the instant requirement for fuel, but once it gets going, it's ok. Possibly???

 

I would try adjusting ignition timing and incrasing the fuel pressure via a fuel pressure regulator...

 

i have encountered this problem with my prelude also initially. i think i can help. retard your timing all the way. if need to notch the distributor holes to retard more. this is if you do not have any eng. management. i dont as of yet but my car became smoother and smoother as i retarted the timing. i also kept gaing horse power on the dyno as well. my symptoms were identical. my dizzy has been notched to **** but the drivability and gains on the dyno made a world of difference.

if this doesnt work im me.

 

i tried retarding my timing to cure this problem but i think that the poor performance you get when retarding your timing that much just disguises the timing pulled by the KS...i personally think that it's the knock sensor wire...the past 3 weeks my car, even in 90 degree heat, ran like a champ without the lag...i went under the car to mess with some things yesterday, and i touched and moved the KS wire...today the car has been bogging on and off... that means either the KS is working on/off or the wire has a short in it and triggers the KS to malfunction.

junbb1..how far did you retard your timing? i can't figure out my exact timing so how far would you say it is just by looking at it?

i'm about ready to throw the p13 away, take the KS out, and buy a p28; just to see if it works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have encountered this problem with my prelude also initially. i think i can help. retard your timing all the way. if need to notch the distributor holes to retard more. this is if you do not have any eng. management. i dont as of yet but my car became smoother and smoother as i retarted the timing. i also kept gaing horse power on the dyno as well. my symptoms were identical. my dizzy has been notched to **** but the drivability and gains on the dyno made a world of difference.

if this doesnt work im me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had this exact same problem on my old H23. I have not had it on my new build.

I always thought that if you pulled the wire, it would make the car go in limp mode?!

The hesitation, in theory, is from the faulty knock sensor sensing a phantom ping and pulling timing. If you retard your timing, you are only hiding the fact that timing is being pulled.

I would try buyin a new sensor, poppin it in, and seeing if it fixes the problem. If it does, then you just got a new sensor and fixed the problem. If not, bring the sensor back for a refund!

 

Well, much to my dismay, I discovered the true issue here, LEAN!

Now, before I get flamed, I did get it dyno tuned, but obviously it was tuned to the ragged edge, meaning for the ultimate hp numbers. I doubt it was tuned for normal driving, ie. the low throttle settings on the VAFC were never touched!

So, now after 12k of daily driving(except when stored in the winter) the plugs are nice and WHITE, and one had already lost a small piece of the electrode. So, the first thing I did was to get a new set of plugs obviously, and then I went into the settings on my VAFC and I cranked up the low throttle settings all 1%, and I went across the high throttle settings, and bumped them up as well 1%. I know, not the best way to tune, but at this point, I need to solve the lean condition until I get to another dyno, which I don't know when that may be (funds low).

So, in short, the KS is probably doing its job, my motor was tuned to what I would guess to be slightly lean based on the plugs, and this is why it took nearly 12k for the issue to show it's ugly face. Bottom line, I should have checked those damn plugs first!

 

so increasing the fuel supply slightly fixed your problem? you didnt say if you had driven your car since you fixed the problem and if it drives better now... I think I am running lean due to the fact that my ecu is for a 2.2L and my motor is a 2.3L not to mention I believe it has some ebay chip that has already probably been leaned out across the board... That is why my top end is meeeean but my lowend will bog on me sometimes... I have a hondata but it isn't going to be put on and tuned until the turbo kit is complete... I think I might get a FPR until then and just up the fuel pressure a little...

 

how much slower was your car when you reduced the timing in low end? i know when i retarded my ignition timing low end torque dropped off the face of the Earth.

for us untuned ppl this really could be a bunch of things. it could be clogged injectors, bad fuel pump, bad FPR, or anything that limit the fuel to make the car run lean

 

Yes, it did fix my problem, it runs a lot better in the low RPM's. However, I consider it a temporary fix, as now I would say I may be running a bit rich in the top end. I'm going to try and watch for the preverbial cloud of black smoke out the back end at WOT, and I may end up leaning it back down on the top end for WOT.

For now though, I am going to head back home after work, and check the plugs again, and hopefully see that nice golden brown. If they are still white, I may need to head to the dyno sooner than I would like. This may be something I check fairly regularly for the next few weeks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had this exact same problem on my old H23. I have not had it on my new build.

I always thought that if you pulled the wire, it would make the car go in limp mode?!

The hesitation, in theory, is from the faulty knock sensor sensing a phantom ping and pulling timing. If you retard your timing, you are only hiding the fact that timing is being pulled.

I would try buyin a new sensor, poppin it in, and seeing if it fixes the problem. If it does, then you just got a new sensor and fixed the problem. If not, bring the sensor back for a refund! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had this exact same problem on my old H23. I have not had it on my new build.

I always thought that if you pulled the wire, it would make the car go in limp mode?!

The hesitation, in theory, is from the faulty knock sensor sensing a phantom ping and pulling timing. If you retard your timing, you are only hiding the fact that timing is being pulled.

I would try buyin a new sensor, poppin it in, and seeing if it fixes the problem. If it does, then you just got a new sensor and fixed the problem. If not, bring the sensor back for a refund! </TD></TR></TABLE>


phantom ping? his compression has been raised. the KS is doing its job. his KS is fine. plus it its a lot easier to turn the dizzy than to replace a KS.

KS dont pick up ghost pings. if you look at the schematic of a KS you will see that it is not just a wire but a shielded wire that shares grounds with other sensors to prevent a ghost ping. plus retarding timing on a high compression h22 will increase power.

remeber ludeykrus that when a car goes into a fail safe on a KS code it runs off programmed base maps. therefore timing is consistant. retarded and constant timing will decrease hesitation on part throttle loads if too high of compression is too blame.

also remember that too much timing will cause too hot of a burn and turn your plugs white also. just food for the thought.

 

What about running a step cooler plug? Would this have a positive affect on how it performs with the slightly higher compression?

 

yes with type s pistons you should be running an ngk heat range 7 or a denso heat range 22.

i use a denso iridium ik22. the heat range is necessary but the plug type is just personal preference.