i was just about to go buy new Pads and have my stock Rotors resurfaced (because all the rotors i found were $100 for a front set)

however i was told the Autozone and Pepboys have stock rotors for $22... however i read in another thread that when buying rotors it's a good idea to resurface the new one's as well.

Is that true?

and if so, should we just stick with the stock rotors and resurface them?

(btw, i'll be running Green Stuff pads)

 

dont need to resurface new rotors... they come machined.... you just have to properly break them in by going through a few medium and hard pressure braking cycles to allow the rotors to warm up and cool down. if you decide to turn your rotors you dont have to worry about this as much, but i still go through cycles no matter what

 

can you explain these Cycles?

 

in other words, break them in properly and not jamm on them immediately after install.

 

actually you do jam on them immediatly after install. install.... drive down the road... give firm to the point of almost locking pressure about 4 or 5 times. then do some moderate pressure braking in the same pattern. then park the car and let the brakes cool. do the procedure again. let cool.... then drive normal

 

I thought doing that would glaze over the brake pads?

 

Read this, all of your questions will be answered.

http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm

 

so according to that article...

5 stops... from 60mph down to 5mph... (never fully stopping) each increasingly harder.

then let her sit and cool... then good to go.

Correct?

 

Yeah, it's pretty difficult to do that break-in method if you live anywhere near a city. But that is one of the methods that many people like to use. I would do what 3.504 said, and repeat the cycle after it cools, just to make sure.

Also, you might try using Garnet Sand Paper to get the pad material off of the rotors before you try resurfacing or buying new ones - it might save you some money.

 

hmm, i'm not even sure if my rotors are stock or not, or even if the've been resurfaced. it's a '97 GSR and i've had her for a bit over 2 years... and already had put new front brakes on her about a year and a half ago.
now i hear the brake "grind" she shakes when braking... a LOT. (she actually shook for about 6 months before i started to hear the screach from the pad)

 

If you visually inspect the rotors and they don't appear cracked or anything, you might want to see if the garnet paper will help. You could measure your runout on the rotor, then sand it, and measure it again. You might also look for pad imprints or any other rough spots.

Your case sounds like typical 'warping', and it may be a bit too much to machine them or sand them - just get Autozone blank rotors, put on the new pads, and break them in properly.

 

will do... thanks boss!

 

I recently had my car inspected and they failed me for my rotors - asked them how much to machine them and they replied $85! No thanks - rather buy new ones at $24 a pop and not have some shop monkey mess with 'em.

No real need to have $100 rotors for the street - unless those 3 to 6 feet you gain is worth 4x the money. Good idea to do the pads too - b/c your rotors are def f'ed up so your pads will be shot as well.

If your rotors are both worn/warped you may consider new calipers too - can be a bit pricey when it all adds up - but pretty simple to replace.

 

also always a smart idea to get a few of the rotor screws too. the philips ones that hold the rotor on. i always strip 1 or 2 out. get 4 of em just incase and you'll never strip the ones on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also always a smart idea to get a few of the rotor screws too. the philips ones that hold the rotor on. i always strip 1 or 2 out. get 4 of em just incase and you'll never strip the ones on the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need the rotor screw. The rotors are held in place by the wheels and not those little screws.

 

you just need to break it in at all speeds , very simple

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy8151 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't need the rotor screw. The rotors are held in place by the wheels and not those little screws. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont need them but its a good idea to use them.

 

Use an impact driver for the rotor screws - $20 at any parts store. It is very easy to destroy the heads on these screws.