yep it is happening, i was driving my car the other day and i heard the unmistakeable sound of my cv joints clicking. great! does anyone know where i can get a nice set of new drive axels for a good price? the car has 86k on it so its about time to change the drive axles. i just want something that can take a little beating and not break at the track or strip. thanks alot its a 96 gsr.

 

if your car is stock, go to auto zone for axles.

 

go to honda, ***** autozone. honda will have better quality ****. Of course that is just pne guy's opinion

 

honda's prices:

auto zone prices:

if his car is stock why the **** get stronger axles? he doesn't need them

 

autozone = 69.95 before core charge, + lifetime warrenty.... i always use autozone axles, i just go thru them every couple of months... i've only bought 1 set

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">autozone = 69.95 before core charge, + lifetime warrenty.... i always use autozone axles, i just go thru them every couple of months... i've only bought 1 set</TD></TR></TABLE>

allthough i use advance autos axles, you cant beat the lifetime warranty, you break one you bring it back and get anotherone.....good deal if you ask me

 

but who wants to be doing axel installs every 3 months, if u can afford better quality that will last as ong as oem axels,why not go for them..

 

dude, it takes 15 minutes to swap an axle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but who wants to be doing axel installs every 3 months, if u can afford better quality that will last as ong as oem axels,why not go for them..</TD></TR></TABLE>

give Honda a call and find out how much a set of new axles cost, last time I called the guy didn't even want to tell me, he said and I quote "you don't want to know how much they cost, go to a parts store and get a rebuilt one". I have a feeling that it was upwards of $600+

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but who wants to be doing axel installs every 3 months, if u can afford better quality that will last as ong as oem axels,why not go for them..</TD></TR></TABLE>

they last long jut like any other axle, its just that when driven on hard like any other factor strenght axle they wear faster than normal.

 

yeah I'm running on two rebuilt axels for about a year and a half now, and I have no problems whatsoever

 

they last long jut like any other axle, its just that when driven on hard like any other factor strenght axle they wear faster than normal.[/QUOTE]

actually i broke a set of driveshaftshop.com stage 2's (400hp) in shorter time than the autozones. and those weren't replaced for free, i was out $700, i'll stick w/ autozone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they last long jut like any other axle, its just that when driven on hard like any other factor strenght axle they wear faster than normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually i broke a set of driveshaftshop.com stage 2's (400hp) in shorter time than the autozones. and those weren't replaced for free, i was out $700, i'll stick w/ autozone.[/QUOTE]

yea i just see it as hey 150$ for axle for a lifetime warranty with free replacements, dang my gen2 got a good deal...lol

 

moth@$&#@$&$kin acura tried to charged me 350 for one axle plus the cost of labor which altogether came to about 600+ I couldn't help but laugh in his face. LOl funny stuff. I went to autozone and did my own install saved me 500+ dollars.

 

there ya have it,

you go to the dealership you're fucken stupid.

 

does anyone know what the autozone axels are rated at for HP? and my car isnt exactly stock....and its only gonna be getting more mods added. i drive it pretty hard at times so i need something dependable. does anyone have a link for a how-to on the drive axel install because im thinkin about tryin it myself thanks for all the advice.

 

autozone as well as other part stores axles are going to be rated for stock HP unless otherwise noted....they're just rebuilt axles.......i avoided my axles going bad by checking them every couple of months and when i noticed the boots dry rotting or cracking i just took the axle off and rebooted it and put new grease in....this so far has worked for me and saved my axles.......this,however, is a much bigger pain in the *** than putting new ones in, but i'd rather stick w/the honda axles IMO, just my 6 yrs of working at a parts store experience.....i just dont think the quality of the axles at the parts store are that good, even though they're rebuilt, but you cant beat the warranty!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gser67 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone know what the autozone axels are rated at for HP? and my car isnt exactly stock....and its only gonna be getting more mods added. i drive it pretty hard at times so i need something dependable. does anyone have a link for a how-to on the drive axel install because im thinkin about tryin it myself thanks for all the advice. </TD></TR></TABLE>
take the wheel off, with a friend standing on the brakes remove the axle nut w/ a 32mm socket and a huge breaker bar (i use a 24" bar.) after that, unbolt the bottom of the strut fork from the LCA, then pull the cotter pin out from the castle nut on the lower ball joint, remove the castle nut, pry the steering nuckle from the LCA, i usually take my breaker bar and wedge it between the LCA and the brake caliper then stand on it and bouce up and down. after that, swing the whole knuckle and brake assembly w/ the top ball joint still attached toward the back of the car, reach in to the inner joint, hold on to the toulip (sp) of the inner tripot and give it a sharp hard yank.... if that doesn't work, try using a pry bar or i use a pickle fork cause of my lack of owning a pry bar, just simply pop it out of the diff or intermediate shaft depending which side you're on. reverse for instalation, torque bolts to spec. and when done torquing, make sure to key in the new axle nut. thats about it.... should take a first timer like 1 hr. per side max, if its takin longer, something is wrong or you're retarded

 

take off the wheel and examine the suspension set up. It's pretty easy sailing after you look closely at it. Nothing too hard. Prolly the longest part is taking the balljoints apart.

 

alright thanks man. so does everyone pretty much think i should go with the autozone axles then? the warranty is pretty awesome and as long as they dont break too easily i think ill check em out. thanks for all the in put.

 

i'd say go with the autozones. as long as you aren't making 400 hp and you're not lowered 4-5 inches, the autozones will do great and last most likely well over a year or a year and a half on hard driving. plus if they do break, take them back, and if those break, take them back. lifetime warrenty is great.

 

I bought AutoZone axles, they were too short, had to return them.

Went to NAPA, which sells the same brand of reman axles as AutoZone, picked up 2 more axles, one was too short, so they had to bring out another one.

Those made a bad vibration after I installed them, so I took those back and got another set.

The driver side one's outer joint had mad play in it, so I took that one back and got another one.

Now I get vibrations upon acceleration again (now on my 3rd set in a week).

F this, I'm taking these damn things back and demanding a full refund, and getting Gator Stage 1 axles (all brand new). Screw some remanufactured axles.

 

pssst... Pat. R A X L E S!!! from me. Marty is a good guy too.