code 9
I have a 90 crx si. Just put a built head on my zc and im throwing code 9(No.1 cylinder position). Yes i have reset my ecu and everything and it still comes up. Anyone know y it might be getting this code?
My car also starts really rough. It will never crank over on tha first turn. I always have ta shut tha key off and do it again. Its like it locks up or something. Anyone know whats up with it?
code 9 = CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bo0sT3d_CrX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car also starts really rough. It will never crank over on tha first turn. I always have ta shut tha key off and do it again. Its like it locks up or something. Anyone know whats up with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ what is the battary volts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bo0sT3d_CrX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car also starts really rough. It will never crank over on tha first turn. I always have ta shut tha key off and do it again. Its like it locks up or something. Anyone know whats up with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ what is the battary volts
One of the sensors in the distributor could be unplugged?
I've got a code 9 as well, but on a hondata/p28/b20vtec in my '94 hatch. The screw came out of the rotor and tore the cap/rotor up a bit, but a new cap/rotor hasn't fixed the problem. Car seems to run good, but doesn't idle for ****.
Any thoughts???
I've got a code 9 as well, but on a hondata/p28/b20vtec in my '94 hatch. The screw came out of the rotor and tore the cap/rotor up a bit, but a new cap/rotor hasn't fixed the problem. Car seems to run good, but doesn't idle for ****.
Any thoughts???
I have a similar problem with my B16A/PR3 4th gen Hatch.
I'm throwing a code 9 also (#1 cylinder position / CYP)
the car doesnt want to start (when cold) on the first try.
i have to prime the pump and then start it,but no start, and then i do it again
and it starts up but runs rough for a while until its warm.
Also...you know how when you turn the key to the "ON" position and the
check engine light goes on until the fuel pump is done priming ,then it goes off, and after the engine is running the check engine light goes back on and then
you can check your codes?
well, my check engine light is on constantly and it must be in limp mode because i have no Vtec. i used to be able to reset the ecu to make it go away but the ecu doesnt want to reset anymore?
also throwing a code 6 (engine coolant temp / ECT)
any help would be great, maybe we can all get this **** figured out
I'm throwing a code 9 also (#1 cylinder position / CYP)
the car doesnt want to start (when cold) on the first try.
i have to prime the pump and then start it,but no start, and then i do it again
and it starts up but runs rough for a while until its warm.
Also...you know how when you turn the key to the "ON" position and the
check engine light goes on until the fuel pump is done priming ,then it goes off, and after the engine is running the check engine light goes back on and then
you can check your codes?
well, my check engine light is on constantly and it must be in limp mode because i have no Vtec. i used to be able to reset the ecu to make it go away but the ecu doesnt want to reset anymore?
also throwing a code 6 (engine coolant temp / ECT)
any help would be great, maybe we can all get this **** figured out
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code 9= timing belt misaligned i changed my timing belt did it by the book somehow ended up being of and it threw a code 9 it ran like **** would stall out sounded like it was running on three cylinders. i fixed it the next day ran as smooth as it did before so check your timing belt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by messeduprex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">code 9= timing belt misaligned i changed my timing belt did it by the book somehow ended up being of and it threw a code 9 it ran like **** would stall out sounded like it was running on three cylinders. i fixed it the next day ran as smooth as it did before so check your timing belt</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what I was thinking.. when you put the head back on something got mis-aligned... check it out.
thats what I was thinking.. when you put the head back on something got mis-aligned... check it out.
yea. I am getting my head rebuild as we speak and what should the tension on the timing belt be (d16a6) when i took the head of i just slide the timing belt right off the camshaft sproket
code 9 - Cylinder Position Sensor - on the DOHC ZC, the cylinder position sensor is not in the distributor - it is on the end of the exhaust camshaft - this sensor doesn't usually go bad - more likely the camshaft timing is not correct
"well, my check engine light is on constantly and it must be in limp mode because i have no Vtec. i used to be able to reset the ecu to make it go away but the ecu doesnt want to reset anymore?
also throwing a code 6 (engine coolant temp / ECT)
any help would be great, maybe we can all get this **** figured out"-die laughing.
without ect you'll be in open loop, causing vtec not to work,poor gas mileage etc etc.
also throwing a code 6 (engine coolant temp / ECT)
any help would be great, maybe we can all get this **** figured out"-die laughing.
without ect you'll be in open loop, causing vtec not to work,poor gas mileage etc etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
without ect you'll be in open loop, causing vtec not to work,poor gas mileage etc etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks..that explains a lot. now, how do i go about taking care of this problem?
is the engine coolant temp sensor the 2 prong plug on the back of the block near the oil filter? if it is i went under there yesterday and one the plugs was not connected. so i connected it back together and tryed to reset the ecu with the same results as before / nothing.
could this sensor be bad?
so i guess we decided that code 9 is a fucked up dizzy or mis-aligned timing belt?
thanks
without ect you'll be in open loop, causing vtec not to work,poor gas mileage etc etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks..that explains a lot. now, how do i go about taking care of this problem?
is the engine coolant temp sensor the 2 prong plug on the back of the block near the oil filter? if it is i went under there yesterday and one the plugs was not connected. so i connected it back together and tryed to reset the ecu with the same results as before / nothing.
could this sensor be bad?
so i guess we decided that code 9 is a fucked up dizzy or mis-aligned timing belt?
thanks
I used to reset the ecu by pulling the hazard fuse for 10-30 seconds until, someone told me to pull the fuse labeled "ecu". i guess this method worked but, im not sure because i always pulled both the fuses after i heard that.
i've also tryed unhooking the battery, and unhooking the ECU from its 3 main clip plugs. still the light is constant. im going right now to try and reset it just by pulling the hazard fuse on its own and leave it out for a while
we'll see what happens
thanks guys.
anyone else?
i've also tryed unhooking the battery, and unhooking the ECU from its 3 main clip plugs. still the light is constant. im going right now to try and reset it just by pulling the hazard fuse on its own and leave it out for a while
we'll see what happens
thanks guys.
anyone else?
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