TURBO INTEGRA ANYBODY?
well some people might say that this belongs to forced induction but it's also about integras which is what we are into on this part of the forums. I want to hear from people that have a fully built integra ls turbo! Hell yeah turbo with everything that will be sleeving, pistons,studs,rods,block worked, head worked, cams, retainer etc... please tell us any mistakes so that we can be educated and learn!
How do you get a properly built ls motor turbo?
What parts are need it/what exactly did you use and how's working for you?
is this a reliable motor for you so far?
Just my idea of parts need it here? there are other brands but this is so that we can read and recommend what works best let me know what I'm missing
Golden Eagle Sleeves
CP Forget Pistons 8:5:1 comp to handle real boost!
Eagle rods (any other brand that is better and you guys recommend)
Crower cam shafts
Aem: fuel rail, fuel preassure, pulley kit, cam gears
Walbro fuel pump
Hondatas200 with everying
Exedy clu...
850cc injectors
Fully worked block, balance, blue printed, crank micro polish, hot tank etc
Head port and polish 3 angle valve job... retainers what kind? springs?
Motor mounts?
What else? help me out to make this post really helpfull for those trying to built a good turbo set up please continue with your advice techs
any ideas are welcome?
How do you get a properly built ls motor turbo?
What parts are need it/what exactly did you use and how's working for you?
is this a reliable motor for you so far?
Just my idea of parts need it here? there are other brands but this is so that we can read and recommend what works best let me know what I'm missing
Golden Eagle Sleeves
CP Forget Pistons 8:5:1 comp to handle real boost!
Eagle rods (any other brand that is better and you guys recommend)
Crower cam shafts
Aem: fuel rail, fuel preassure, pulley kit, cam gears
Walbro fuel pump
Hondatas200 with everying
Exedy clu...
850cc injectors
Fully worked block, balance, blue printed, crank micro polish, hot tank etc
Head port and polish 3 angle valve job... retainers what kind? springs?
Motor mounts?
What else? help me out to make this post really helpfull for those trying to built a good turbo set up please continue with your advice techs
any ideas are welcome?
You will most likely need a upgraded clutch, with all that power.
Ross Pistons rather than CP (ross comes complete with rings and pins) same comp.
E-mail Mike@alphatuning.com
For custom turbo kits, he makes everything to your needs.
Ross Pistons rather than CP (ross comes complete with rings and pins) same comp.
E-mail Mike@alphatuning.com
For custom turbo kits, he makes everything to your needs.
Well, my advice is hang out in the fi forum and read everything. The first part is deciding what you hp goal is. No need to sleeve if your running 10 lbs or less. Also, where are you wanting the power to kick in. (smaller turbo= faster spool, larger turbo = more top end power). yada yada yada There have been a ton of these exact same questions brought up in the fi forum, so if you search you will find the answers. pm me if you have any specific questions that you cant find and I will do my best to answer them.
Just get pistons and rods, then you'll be able to boost 14psi, and that sure is enough already, unless you going for a 300+whp beast. Its all in the tuning.
Ok maybe I should give you more info. You'll need a turbo kit, fuel pump, engine management, and tune it a/f & timing. I don't know how much cams and cam gears are going to help, but it will make it more difficult for the tuner. You'll need good tires too for the traction.
Ok maybe I should give you more info. You'll need a turbo kit, fuel pump, engine management, and tune it a/f & timing. I don't know how much cams and cam gears are going to help, but it will make it more difficult for the tuner. You'll need good tires too for the traction.
First off I don't have a turbo'd ls motor. This is from what I've gathered from doing research.
8:5:1 CR is pretty low. I think 9:1 is enough.
I'm planning on Manley Turbo Tuff rods, in addition to CP pistons. I've heard good and bad about Eagles, but I've only heard good things about Manley rods.
What cams are you looking at from Crower? Most people will recommend GSR cams/ITR cams/ITR intake+GSR exhaust cam combo, you don't want the duration that most big cams give for boost. As far as springs, you can go with ITR inner intake and exhaust, and move your stock springs to the outter side, I think that'll do for the sorts of cams you'll be running in most turbo setups. Retainers is no biggie, stock seem to be fine.
You most likely will not be needing all the optional features that Hondata offers in addition to the base s200. If you're not planning on tuning it yourself, you can settle with the s200 with the boost option.
Although a balance and blueprint would be nice, its not totally necessary for a turbo buildup. A serious turbo build is already a very expensive venture. Re-sleeving would be fine.
In any case, as Tegmech said, you need to decide what your goals are. Most of this is unecessary if you're not trying to hit mega-huge whp numbers. eg. 850cc injectors are overkill for 250whp, as are new sleeves and forged internals, two of the more expensive components in a turbo build.
A properly built turbo motor is more than the components, its the tuning and the builder also. You can have the most $$$ stuff in the world, but if you take it to some hackjob garage to save money on labor, you'll just have a very expensive timebomb under your hood. By the same token, if you skimp on all the components and think that an experienced and well-known tuner will be able to make you a fantastic motor with just their skills, you'll most likely see problems real soon.
8:5:1 CR is pretty low. I think 9:1 is enough.
I'm planning on Manley Turbo Tuff rods, in addition to CP pistons. I've heard good and bad about Eagles, but I've only heard good things about Manley rods.
What cams are you looking at from Crower? Most people will recommend GSR cams/ITR cams/ITR intake+GSR exhaust cam combo, you don't want the duration that most big cams give for boost. As far as springs, you can go with ITR inner intake and exhaust, and move your stock springs to the outter side, I think that'll do for the sorts of cams you'll be running in most turbo setups. Retainers is no biggie, stock seem to be fine.
You most likely will not be needing all the optional features that Hondata offers in addition to the base s200. If you're not planning on tuning it yourself, you can settle with the s200 with the boost option.
Although a balance and blueprint would be nice, its not totally necessary for a turbo buildup. A serious turbo build is already a very expensive venture. Re-sleeving would be fine.
In any case, as Tegmech said, you need to decide what your goals are. Most of this is unecessary if you're not trying to hit mega-huge whp numbers. eg. 850cc injectors are overkill for 250whp, as are new sleeves and forged internals, two of the more expensive components in a turbo build.
A properly built turbo motor is more than the components, its the tuning and the builder also. You can have the most $$$ stuff in the world, but if you take it to some hackjob garage to save money on labor, you'll just have a very expensive timebomb under your hood. By the same token, if you skimp on all the components and think that an experienced and well-known tuner will be able to make you a fantastic motor with just their skills, you'll most likely see problems real soon.
thanks Noob for the inf. it helps a lot I apreciate it
I do want to hit 350-450 hp that's why the resleving is there and the big injectors plus forged pistons low compretion for more boost.
I do want to hit 350-450 hp that's why the resleving is there and the big injectors plus forged pistons low compretion for more boost.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by POWERINTEGRA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks Noob for the inf. it helps a lot I apreciate it
I do want to hit 350-450 hp that's why the resleving is there and the big injectors plus forged pistons low compretion for more boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you have the wrong idea about low compression. im no expert and im positive there are tons of low/higher compression threads. you sacrifice one for the other: less compression=more boost and more compression=less boost to get to the same HP. and the less compression you have the higher up in the powerband your power is. you might think about a little higher compression for better street power. unless you want all your power real high.
I do want to hit 350-450 hp that's why the resleving is there and the big injectors plus forged pistons low compretion for more boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>i think you have the wrong idea about low compression. im no expert and im positive there are tons of low/higher compression threads. you sacrifice one for the other: less compression=more boost and more compression=less boost to get to the same HP. and the less compression you have the higher up in the powerband your power is. you might think about a little higher compression for better street power. unless you want all your power real high.
Bspec18 the car will be driven on the streets once in a while but It will be at the track most of the time, but I still want the car to be able to run on 92octane and for nickgmiller04 is been proven and recommended that if you want al ot of power or are planing to run at least 20 psi of boost you will need really low compresion have you hear of the Honda Acura persormance book. If you have! read the turbo section! it has a lot of information and also talks about some of the stuff that the big racers have done to their cars for example the AEM car. Is your car turbo from where are you getting this low, high compresion asnwer? High compresion is for all motor, low compresion is for boost 9:5:1 comp might be ok but 8:5:1 on fully built is better! high compresion on boost The motor will blow. any body want to add anything or correct me if I'm wrong?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mademan2723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont have to resleeve fore 350-450 hp. People make that all the time on stock sleeves with blockgurard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
block gaurd isn't needed. You need a better clutch. Get higher compression, if that book tells you to get low compression throw it in the garbage. Go ask in FI how many people are making 500+ on less then 9:1. I would go benson sleeves over golden eagle. AEM FPR and cam gears are shitty get something else. GSR cams are fine for boost, you do have a gsr correct?
block gaurd isn't needed. You need a better clutch. Get higher compression, if that book tells you to get low compression throw it in the garbage. Go ask in FI how many people are making 500+ on less then 9:1. I would go benson sleeves over golden eagle. AEM FPR and cam gears are shitty get something else. GSR cams are fine for boost, you do have a gsr correct?
i wanted to run 10:1 compression....but ive bumped mine down to 9.5:1 with a thicker headgasket. im gonna keep it conservative to keep it all in one piece. i should be somewhere in the 12's.
Im not your mom or anything but I always recomend taking smaller steps, trying to build a Custom kit/Fully built motor/The works isn't something that happens overnight. This sounds like this is your first Turbo project this is the only reason im saying this.
My advice is dont get over your head, hang around the FI forum, learn the ropes and then start small, but Aim big. It's the only way to learn
Your list seems like it's on track, If I were to sleeve my motor I would look into Benson(Search under Earl as creator) theres an excellent thread in the archives. Eagle rods are descent, and well priced but if your going to spend the $$ look into Pauter/Crower/Full-Race. Clutch well your going to need something alot better than an Excedy, but your clutch choice will be determined by how much torque you plan on making.
My advice is dont get over your head, hang around the FI forum, learn the ropes and then start small, but Aim big. It's the only way to learn
Your list seems like it's on track, If I were to sleeve my motor I would look into Benson(Search under Earl as creator) theres an excellent thread in the archives. Eagle rods are descent, and well priced but if your going to spend the $$ look into Pauter/Crower/Full-Race. Clutch well your going to need something alot better than an Excedy, but your clutch choice will be determined by how much torque you plan on making.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not your mom or anything but I always recomend taking smaller steps, trying to build a Custom kit/Fully built motor/The works isn't something that happens overnight. This sounds like this is your first Turbo project this is the only reason im saying this.
My advice is dont get over your head, hang around the FI forum, learn the ropes and then start small, but Aim big. It's the only way to learn
</TD></TR></TABLE>
word up, quik
do you plan on doing all the install yourself? It's definitely best to start small, and do what you can to keep your long term options open. Learn what it's like to drive it at 8-10 psi (240ish whp) first, before you nearly double the whp.
chill in the FI forum for a few hrs a day and just SEARCH, READ, READ, READ, READ, READ. Even though you think you know what you want, it's not clear that you've done the research to supplement your wants.
Sounds like you're craving the super tyte, 11sec, $8K setup (probably like $10K if you get someone else to do it)though, and well damn, sounds like you've got a lot more disposable $$$ than me, you must be doing pretty good for a 20yr old
My advice is dont get over your head, hang around the FI forum, learn the ropes and then start small, but Aim big. It's the only way to learn
</TD></TR></TABLE>word up, quik
do you plan on doing all the install yourself? It's definitely best to start small, and do what you can to keep your long term options open. Learn what it's like to drive it at 8-10 psi (240ish whp) first, before you nearly double the whp.
chill in the FI forum for a few hrs a day and just SEARCH, READ, READ, READ, READ, READ. Even though you think you know what you want, it's not clear that you've done the research to supplement your wants.
Sounds like you're craving the super tyte, 11sec, $8K setup (probably like $10K if you get someone else to do it)though, and well damn, sounds like you've got a lot more disposable $$$ than me, you must be doing pretty good for a 20yr old
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by POWERINTEGRA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bspec18 the car will be driven on the streets once in a while but It will be at the track most of the time, but I still want the car to be able to run on 92octane and for nickgmiller04 is been proven and recommended that if you want al ot of power or are planing to run at least 20 psi of boost you will need really low compresion have you hear of the Honda Acura persormance book. If you have! read the turbo section! it has a lot of information and also talks about some of the stuff that the big racers have done to their cars for example the AEM car. Is your car turbo from where are you getting this low, high compresion asnwer? High compresion is for all motor, low compresion is for boost 9:5:1 comp might be ok but 8:5:1 on fully built is better! high compresion on boost The motor will blow. any body want to add anything or correct me if I'm wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I suppose you'll be doing some sort of bracket racing ? And with all these compression formulas they are just some guidelines. With the proper fuel management setup you can run 11:0:1 and 25 psi. Its really how you build the car.
What do you have on your car now ?
I suppose you'll be doing some sort of bracket racing ? And with all these compression formulas they are just some guidelines. With the proper fuel management setup you can run 11:0:1 and 25 psi. Its really how you build the car.
What do you have on your car now ?
You are right crawdad I do want to hit the 11's that's my plan, and again I apreciate all the positive help and advice
as far as the install goes I'm having a local builder (kind of famous and recommended in the area)doing the work and yes I work very hard to make my cash. The built up is stimated around $7-10k when completed I hope all this spending is worth, I will keep you guys post it on the outcome!
My car was turbo before blow the engine I run 15psi on stock kind of did it on porpuse to blow engine, so that I could rebuilt it and here I'm!
as far as the install goes I'm having a local builder (kind of famous and recommended in the area)doing the work and yes I work very hard to make my cash. The built up is stimated around $7-10k when completed I hope all this spending is worth, I will keep you guys post it on the outcome!
My car was turbo before blow the engine I run 15psi on stock kind of did it on porpuse to blow engine, so that I could rebuilt it and here I'm!
Selling my whole swap set up. Are you interested?
$12,000 OBO for the complete swap. I will included the Hondata, so everything is already dyno tuned at 377hp 290 ft. lbs. tq. Here's what is included:
Sleeved GSR Block by RS Machine 84.5mm bore
LS Knife Edged Crank
Pro Drive Oil Pump Gear
Mugen Baffled Oil Pan
ARP Head Bolts
Eagle Rods
Arias 9.0:1 Dished Pistons
Ported and Polished Head by Alaniz w/ custom chamber work
Stainless Steel 1mm Oversized Valves
Alaniz Valve Springs and Retainers
Mugen Valve Cover
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Cam Gears
B&M Fuel Regulator
NGK Wires
Custom Turbo Kit w/ Aluminum I.C. piping
Custom Stainless Downpipe w/ Wastegate Dump Tube
Tial Wastegate
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor
Blitz Blowoff Valve
LS Transmission Fully Rebuilt w/ Quaife Differential
Enjo Stage 2 Axles
Hondata s200 w/ Boost Option, Launch Control, Full Throttle Shift
Here's a link to my dyno sheet:
http://www.islandmotorsports.c...w.jpg
Let me know if you are interested.
$12,000 OBO for the complete swap. I will included the Hondata, so everything is already dyno tuned at 377hp 290 ft. lbs. tq. Here's what is included:
Sleeved GSR Block by RS Machine 84.5mm bore
LS Knife Edged Crank
Pro Drive Oil Pump Gear
Mugen Baffled Oil Pan
ARP Head Bolts
Eagle Rods
Arias 9.0:1 Dished Pistons
Ported and Polished Head by Alaniz w/ custom chamber work
Stainless Steel 1mm Oversized Valves
Alaniz Valve Springs and Retainers
Mugen Valve Cover
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Cam Gears
B&M Fuel Regulator
NGK Wires
Custom Turbo Kit w/ Aluminum I.C. piping
Custom Stainless Downpipe w/ Wastegate Dump Tube
Tial Wastegate
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor
Blitz Blowoff Valve
LS Transmission Fully Rebuilt w/ Quaife Differential
Enjo Stage 2 Axles
Hondata s200 w/ Boost Option, Launch Control, Full Throttle Shift
Here's a link to my dyno sheet:
http://www.islandmotorsports.c...w.jpg
Let me know if you are interested.
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