To start with, the car in question is the #13 H4 Civic EX. I was a very busy boy this past weekend and replaced the following items by myself.

1) Installed 4.7 final drive (ring and countershaft) and OPM LSD.
2) New SPEC Stage 3 clutch disk (reused old SPEC Stage 3 pressure plate).
3) Bone Stock junkyard D16Z6 engine comlplete with freshly balanced RC injectors.
4) New wheel bearings and hubs.
5) New lower ball joints.
6) New Carbotech Panther XP brake pads.

I know some of these things will have no impact on any of the problems I am having, but I just don't want to leave out any of the changes I made just in case.
Here are the problems I am experiencing after putting it all together.

A) After initial start up, I get a code 14 (Idle Air Controller) and it idles irratically at 1400-1500 RPMs. Replaced the IAC with the one from the other engine and nothing changes. I narrowed it down to the fact that I left out the Trottle Body Gasket when I changed out the throttle body as the TPS terminal got damaged. DUH, RIGHT? I have a new TB gasket on the way and will replace tomorrow. That should fix it, RIGHT?

B) I try to shift gears with it on jackstands with engine off and it shifts fine. Good sign. Then, I start it up with car on jack stands and it won't go into gear, ANY gear. I start freaking out, thinking I did something wrong, which is entirely possible. Anyway, I figure out that if I only push the clutch peddle in half way, it will shift into every gear while running. WHY? My solution, which seems to work, was to utilize a 10mm bolt hole behind clutch peddle, use a long bolt and put 4 washers on it. Works fine now.

C) Car doesn't roll very easily while in neutral. I can push it, but it is like the brakes are on. Rear tires roll easily. Front wheels do not. Maybe worth mentioning that the new OPM LSD is super tight. Much harder to turn one wheel by hand than my previous one. But, is it just tougher to turn by hand because of another issue in the drive line or is it just set up that way? BTW, when both front wheels are off the ground, it is still fairly difficult to turn.

Worth mentioning that I did have to clearance the housing to fit the ring gear. Yes, I did make sure that I clearanced it enough by spinning it and putting pressure on it in every direction.

D) Speedometer does not work. Removed the entire Vehicle Speed Sensor and replaced with another known good unit. Still does not work. I know race cars don't need a speedo, but does the ECU use it to do anything important? I read something about a fuse, but cannot find it anywhere.

I do realized that I replaced so many different variables that I am leaving room for error. However, I was meticulous in my endeavors, and I honestly believe I did everything correctly (except TB gasket). I will be racing the car at Road Atlanta this weekend and Danielle will be doing the HPDE. Need to have car sorted by then. PLEASE ADVISE...

Thanks in advance! |

 

wow, sounds like you have been busy. And I thought I was having problems. As far as the speedometer goes, did it throw a code for a faulty vss? It could just be a problem in the plug at the vss. On some cars the plug can easily get water and stuff in it. Or maybe even on the back of the speedo, About all you could do is test the wires. When you turn the wheels, does it seem like resistance just in the wheels, or in the drivetrain. Did everything check out okay, as far as the brake pads being the correct ones, and the new wheel bearings not being bad?

BTW, I sent you an email a few days ago about some problems I was having with my integra. Was just wondering if you got it, but sounds like you've had your hands full. If you need any help, I'd be glad to give a hand.

 

Yeah, maybe I should get one of those voltage meter thingies...

 

I just got a digital one a few days ago, works pretty well. If you need it, don't hesitate to ask.


Modified by stonebub at 5:11 AM 6/15/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stonebub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got a digital one a few days ago, works pretty well. If you need it, don't hesitate to ask. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just might, if I don't actually buy one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lyonel 13H4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">voltage meter thingies</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

 

Hey Lyonel, I dunno much about the internals of trannies, never did that kind of work myself. However, on my Accord it quit idling one day. I replaced the TB (tps sensor) idled for a few days, then went to irratic idle again, ended up being a faulty fast idle valve, pulled it off, and blocked off the ports on the TB for it, and it has idled perfect for several months now. I dunno if civics have a FIV or not though. Also, I'll be at RA this weekend for the races, you guys camping out? or staying somewhere? I should be down there late friday night. Prob staying at a friends house friday night, and camping Sat night.

Oh yeah, this is Steven w/ the marroon Accord.

 

Regarding the fluctuating idle, make sure the cooling system is bleed properly and topped off.

Regarding the speed sensor, like someone mentioned before, make sure there isn't water shorting the connection. It's happened to me before. Also, did you make sure the plastic ring gear was still in the transmission when you put it back together? The sensor reads off that plastic gear.

Good luck,

AJ

 

vtec doesnt operate without vss

so you have NO throttle body gasket? You must have a humungous vacuum leak. That should fix the idle issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x743x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec doesnt operate without vss

so you have NO throttle body gasket? You must have a humungous vacuum leak. That should fix the idle issue.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

We have the tb gasket in now- idle has cleared up tremendously. However we still need help (I will relay above posts to Lyonel - I came in to check the help you guys are giving THANKYOU!!)
Wheels seem to be turning without resistance- couldn't see the forest for the trees before- once we removed the new unbedded brake pads poof..turns fine....

HOWEVER - We keep getting code 1 and code 14, we've tried 2 different O2 sensors and 2 different iac valves (I may have said that acronym wrong- but I am referring to the thing that code 14 is supposed to refer to). We've tried these combinations with 2 ecus as well (and yes we have been "clearing" the codes with each new attempt. ) We bought one of those multimeter voltage thingies (and have someone here who is more familiar than us assisting us with it- so we're sure we aren't "reading it wrong") But everything seems to be fine that we've checked with it- any suggestions on what else to try/do to get these codes cleared!!!!!!
The speedometer still isn't working- but we think we may have gotten something wet - so that probably explains that (excuse stupidity but will it work again when dry or am I on a quest tomorrow for it?)
Once again thanks for all input I'll relay everything to Lyonel (who is at this point ripping more and more hair out- he'll be bald by this weekend at this rate!)
and please forgive me for "stupid errors" I may have made in this post- I am just the messenger and doing the best I can....Danielle

Ok I went out and relayed above posts to Lyonel- checked/topped off cooling (although we had already done that and wasn't needed)... regarding plastic ring in tranny - typical Lyonel response "there were no parts left over so everyhting must've made it back in"
Weird thing though now, when you try to hold accel pedal down (car on jack stands) it won't hold steady- it spikes up on its own a couple hundred rpm (drops then spikes, etx...pedal is being held consistant..but it goes rich..lean...rich..lean..) ARGGHHHHH....HELP HELP HELP- this stuff always happens before its mine turn to drive the car!!!....Danielle


Modified by Lyonel 13H4 at 2:50 AM 6/16/2004


Modified by Lyonel 13H4 at 3:06 AM 6/16/2004

 

You got the terms all right.

What exactly were you measuring with the multimeter?

Try measuring betwen the yellow/black wire on the iacv, and a body ground. There should be 12v there. try manually giving the iacv power, yel/blk wire to +, other wire -. You should hear a click.

Did you just unplug the wiring harness from the old motor and put it on this motor?

You should check all connections associated to the o2 sensor. If you don't have a shop manual and you need me to look them up for you, let me know.

 

regarding the 'fluxuating idle', i would check/replace the VSS. As said previously, when doused with coolant upon engine swap (common occurance) they act 'funny' on occasion.

Might be worth a swap anyway, as I seem to remember at lowes a year or so back you guys were having trouble with VTEC cutting in/out. Definately worth a look.

BTW, ill be in Atlanta this weekend rooting on my favorite single cammer with Willard. Ill drop by to see if things have gotten better

 

Okay, here's what all we did tonight. The only problem that was really solved was the brakes making the wheels hard to turn.

IAC valve--We jumped the two iac valves off, they both clicked and appeared to be functioning properly. The connector going to the iac valve was also checked, read 6.6 volts with ignition turned to ON. Is there a relay that regulates the function of the iac valve? Looking at the wiring diagrams in the helms, I traced the wire, but couldn't find anything suspicious.

VSS sensor--Once again, we were working with two units. But no speedo. There is no code being shown for faulty vss (code 17 I believe). We were wondering if since this is listed as an intermitent failure, will the vtec still engage. With the lsd in, we couldn't really turn the wheel to check for the pulsing voltage.

O2 sensor--Swapped for another known good unit. I know that the code 1 also shows the O2 sensor heating circuit. So is there a chance that it might not be the sensor itself? We did not get a chance to check voltage at sensor with engine running, I know that it is supposed to go between 0.1 (lean) to 0.9 (rich) volts, but still is there a better way to check than to wait for everything to heat up (since voltage isn't produced until like 600 F) and check the reading?

 

sometimes iacv plug and that other plug on back of manifold and IAT get swapped around....

VSSgear is probably not hitting the NEW LSD....most of the time you need a new gear with aftermarket LSD....YOU DO NOT HAVE TO RIP TRANNY APART TO FIX THAT!!!

call opm or omp and see if you can use stock vss gear....

02 sensor....hmmm.....not srue

 

I was talking to Lionel in PM. You should be reading 12v between the yel/blk wire and ground. The wire runs to the main relay, so check between the iacv and the main relay for shorts. Check the connection at the main relay.

If there is no code 17, than I am sure your vtec will still work.

Code 1 is for the heating circuit like you said. Code 43 is for the sensor itself, I believe. I don't know what to tell you about testing it with the engine not running. . .

 

sometimes iacv plug and that other plug on back of manifold and IAT get swapped around....

VSSgear is probably not hitting the NEW LSD....most of the time you need a new gear with aftermarket LSD....YOU DO NOT HAVE TO RIP TRANNY APART TO FIX THAT!!!

call opm or omp and see if you can use stock vss gear....

02 sensor....hmmm.....not srue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x743x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was talking to Lionel in PM. You should be reading 12v between the yel/blk wire and ground. The wire runs to the main relay, so check between the iacv and the main relay for shorts. Check the connection at the main relay.

If there is no code 17, than I am sure your vtec will still work.

Code 1 is for the heating circuit like you said. Code 43 is for the sensor itself, I believe. I don't know what to tell you about testing it with the engine not running. . .</TD></TR></TABLE>


yellow with black stripe wire is ground....dont' think that should have voltage....other wire should be....since yellow black is ground
right???

car will not going into vtec if the speedo is not working....period....unless he has a VAFC!

 

I believe the wire we were checking for the iac was blu/yel(not exactly sure, checked a lot of wires tonight), every manual I checked didn't really specify what voltage should be, just stated it should be present.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stonebub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe the wire we were checking for the iac was blu/yel(not exactly sure, checked a lot of wires tonight), every manual I checked didn't really specify what voltage should be, just stated it should be present.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you want to check between yel/blk and ground. It calls for "battery voltage" which is 12v. I even went out to my own car to verify that its 12v, and I got 12.6 on my multimeter.

Hey chad, I know vtec doesnt work without a vss signal. If the ecu is not throwing a code 17, than wouldnt it think it is getting a signal?