weird idle
ever since i put my transmision back into my car for the 2nd time my car jumps from 2,000 to 1,000 when at idle but not all the time but when its not jumping it idles at 1,500 and the scew is all the way in on the TB, i did send the tb out to get bored i replaced the gasket, got a coolant flush to get air out, cleaned out the idle air control valve now im stuck im not sure what this problem could be?????
any help
any help
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Could it be your idle air control (IAC) valve sticking? Try setting your idle.
The proceedire is:
1) Operate the car until the engine is warm
2) Shut off car
3) Disconnect the 2-pin IAC connector
4) Start the car with you foot slightly on the accelerator
5) Slowly remove your foot from the accelerator to establish the idle
6) Set the idle to 480 +-50 RPM with the idle set screw on the throttle body
7) Shut off car
8) Reconnect IAC connector
You need to do this proceedure anyway, since you improperly adjusted your idle set screw. It takes less than 10 minutes.
The TPS check proceedure is more complicated, especially without pictures. The basic check method is to remove the 3-pin connector and use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the outside pins and middle pin. The resistance should ramp linearly with throttle position with one increasing and the other decreasing. The maximum resistance should be about 5 kOhm.
The proceedire is:
1) Operate the car until the engine is warm
2) Shut off car
3) Disconnect the 2-pin IAC connector
4) Start the car with you foot slightly on the accelerator
5) Slowly remove your foot from the accelerator to establish the idle
6) Set the idle to 480 +-50 RPM with the idle set screw on the throttle body
7) Shut off car
8) Reconnect IAC connector
You need to do this proceedure anyway, since you improperly adjusted your idle set screw. It takes less than 10 minutes.
The TPS check proceedure is more complicated, especially without pictures. The basic check method is to remove the 3-pin connector and use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the outside pins and middle pin. The resistance should ramp linearly with throttle position with one increasing and the other decreasing. The maximum resistance should be about 5 kOhm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR4door1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe its a vacuum leak somewhere...or you forgot to put a hose or hose clamp..somewhere...
thats my guess..
</TD></TR></TABLE> mine too
thats my guess..
</TD></TR></TABLE> mine too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR4door1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe its a vacuum leak somewhere...or you forgot to put a hose or hose clamp..somewhere...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could be you bumped the map sensor unknowingly. Also could be a problem with the idle air control or the WHATEVER the heck you call that cold start valve under the throttle body(which is what I would look at first). Sometimes weird stuff happens when you change different things. Hell I've had a coil go out when I changed the injectors, go figure. Also check for any vacuum leaks. You may not hear it but it could still be there(even though thats a far fetch). Try the starting fluid trick.
And your check light doesn't always turn on when something acts funny. I've seen bad IAC and TPS with no check light.
And your check light doesn't always turn on when something acts funny. I've seen bad IAC and TPS with no check light.
how about your throtle cable?...there is suppose to be some slack on the cable...
before I didn't know and i adj the nut to take the slack out...and my car start to idle 2000 .....
just another thought
before I didn't know and i adj the nut to take the slack out...and my car start to idle 2000 .....
just another thought
that could b a good point with the cable put on a type r not to long ago for the clean skunk2 look, also the throttle body was mailed to florida to get bored so in the shipping there is a good chance something may have gotten bumped
Can you tell me if this procedure is nec. after installing a turbo kit? I slso have a weird idle @ times since I installed stage 2 crane cams. sometimes it idles very nice. other times..............
Sorry; my net has been down. As mentioned before, you either have a vacuum leak or a stuck throttle, or your IAC is stuck open, effectively causing a vacuum leak. Your car is getting air from somewhere to idle that high.
My '97 GS-R has been surging from 500 RPM to 1200 RPM after I installed 310 cc/min RC Engineering injectors. I think that either my IAC is dirty or the injectors are dumping too much fuel. I'll clean the IAC this weekend.
BTW: I forgot to mention resetting the ECU after the idle set. The ECU should have thrown a code during the procedure. To reset the ECU, pull the 7.5A fuse from the under hood fuse box for 10 seconds. Unfortunately, this will also reset you radio and clock.
Regarding integ2's question, I would say yes, this needs to be done after a turbo install, as the pre-TB pressure may differ.
-D
My '97 GS-R has been surging from 500 RPM to 1200 RPM after I installed 310 cc/min RC Engineering injectors. I think that either my IAC is dirty or the injectors are dumping too much fuel. I'll clean the IAC this weekend.
BTW: I forgot to mention resetting the ECU after the idle set. The ECU should have thrown a code during the procedure. To reset the ECU, pull the 7.5A fuse from the under hood fuse box for 10 seconds. Unfortunately, this will also reset you radio and clock.
Regarding integ2's question, I would say yes, this needs to be done after a turbo install, as the pre-TB pressure may differ.
-D
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ITRacer121
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Mar 25, 2005 01:49 PM




