Tried to install tach and... =(
Got a small little sun pro tach yesterday, and tried to install it. Well it has a Green wire for RPM's, White wire for illumination, Red wire for power, and a Black wire for a ground.
-I took the Green to the infamous blue wire that goes nowhere for the RPM's.
-Then i took out the light dimming switch on the dash and spliced my White wire into the top Red wire. (there are 3 wires (Top Red, Black then a Bottom Red)
-I put my Black wire onto the bare metal bracket that holds the steering column up.
-The Red wire went to an open fuse outlet.
Well when i got all done everything was working fine, it light up when i turned on the lights, and the needle moved like it should, so i took it for a drive. Well i found out on my drive that the Blinkers werent working..i thought ok, and tried my Hazards, those didnt work either. Brake lights, Back up lights, Head Lights, etc all work...Well i took it back home, turned the ignition off, and took the key out..but the ****** car was still running...I had to put it into gear and kill it to turn it off...
Sorry for the long post, but i hope this can help you all understand whats going on with my car.
-I took the Green to the infamous blue wire that goes nowhere for the RPM's.
-Then i took out the light dimming switch on the dash and spliced my White wire into the top Red wire. (there are 3 wires (Top Red, Black then a Bottom Red)
-I put my Black wire onto the bare metal bracket that holds the steering column up.
-The Red wire went to an open fuse outlet.
Well when i got all done everything was working fine, it light up when i turned on the lights, and the needle moved like it should, so i took it for a drive. Well i found out on my drive that the Blinkers werent working..i thought ok, and tried my Hazards, those didnt work either. Brake lights, Back up lights, Head Lights, etc all work...Well i took it back home, turned the ignition off, and took the key out..but the ****** car was still running...I had to put it into gear and kill it to turn it off...
Sorry for the long post, but i hope this can help you all understand whats going on with my car.
This is why i dont hack into fuses, to risky. Its a damn little gauge. Just plug it up to your batt. It wont suck that much out that the alt. cant put back.
You could have made life much easier if you tapped into your radio wiring harness. You have the 12V, ground and, dim all in one place. All you have to do is run the tack wire to the computer or the distributor.
did you take off the gauge cluster surround thing...and your hazard switch? if the car does not have a clock there should be 2 switches where the hazards go they both will fit but only one is right...just switch the plugs. Same thing happened to me when i switched my gauges...the car would stay on even with the key out
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OK, well at lunch today i went out and snipped all the tach wires, and i was still having the same problems, im pretty sure that i just blew the hazards/turn fuse. But i have no idea about the ignition problem. I dont know why it would be staying on like that...
94civicpat
"...if the car does not have a clock there should be 2 switches where the hazards go they both will fit but only one is right...just switch the plugs. Same thing happened to me when i switched my gauges...the car would stay on even with the key out."
94civicpat
"...if the car does not have a clock there should be 2 switches where the hazards go they both will fit but only one is right...just switch the plugs. Same thing happened to me when i switched my gauges...the car would stay on even with the key out."
Well a blown fuse means an open circuit. There is no way that a blown or burnt fuse could keep your car from turning off. Somewhere you created a short so that when you turn the key to the off postion it won't open the circuit because the short has routed the signal. check where you ran the wire to the open fuse port. make sure you didn't cross over to another fuse or maybe your ground wire on the steering column got frayed and is touching another board or connection. Just cutting the tach wires eliminates the possibilty the tach is shorted. You will have to unwire everything you wired up and make sure to check for burn marks or melted insulation of the other wires you spliced. May have to invest in a DMM but then again maybe a simple hot wire tester may do the job.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94civicpat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you take off the gauge cluster surround thing...and your hazard switch? if the car does not have a clock there should be 2 switches where the hazards go they both will fit but only one is right...just switch the plugs. Same thing happened to me when i switched my gauges...the car would stay on even with the key out</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've seen this before also.
I've seen this before also.
could also be a stuck relay. The switch inside the relay is stuck and won't open when clocked to do so. in the case above they could have bypassed the relay by using the wrong connections when the gauge was installed.
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