p08 ecu, any difference between the auto and manual??
hi,
ok I should have probably asked BEFORE ordering,
but I just ordered a p08 auto ecu from hmotorsonline,
I plan to convert it to manual, which from what i've heard is an easy process,
just remove one resistor or something.
BUT!
what I want to know from you guys,
do the auto and manual ecu's vary in any way other than they work for auto and manual?
Like are the fuel maps, timing, and such any different??
thanks so much!
ok I should have probably asked BEFORE ordering,
but I just ordered a p08 auto ecu from hmotorsonline,
I plan to convert it to manual, which from what i've heard is an easy process,
just remove one resistor or something.
BUT!
what I want to know from you guys,
do the auto and manual ecu's vary in any way other than they work for auto and manual?
Like are the fuel maps, timing, and such any different??
thanks so much!
I believe you would like to read this:
http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/ecu.htm
http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/ecu.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you would like to read this:
http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/ecu.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm, I read through as much of that as I could,
didnt find anything in there that answered my question,
there wasnt even a section on swapping auto to manual at all.
http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/ecu.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm, I read through as much of that as I could,
didnt find anything in there that answered my question,
there wasnt even a section on swapping auto to manual at all.
The programming on both the auto and manual ECUs should be the same code #237. The ECU is easy to convert to manual. Remove the SMD resistors from RP17 and RP18, and install a 0 ohm SMD resistor or a jumper wire across RP18. You can also convert it to run the 4 wire o2 sensor by adding a MMBT4401 SMD NPN switching transistor to Q15.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The programming on both the auto and manual ECUs should be the same code #237. The ECU is easy to convert to manual. Remove the SMD resistors from RP17 and RP18, and install a 0 ohm SMD resistor or a jumper wire across RP18. You can also convert it to run the 4 wire o2 sensor by adding a MMBT4401 SMD NPN switching transistor to Q15.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ah ok,
u sure about the programming?
I have a single wire , which is one of the reasons I went p08 in the first place
are the 4wires any better?
ah ok,
u sure about the programming?
I have a single wire , which is one of the reasons I went p08 in the first place

are the 4wires any better?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ah ok,
u sure about the programming?
I have a single wire , which is one of the reasons I went p08 in the first place
are the 4wires any better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am sure about the code, at least with the four that I have sitting in my garage and the one in my car. They all have 237 code in the MCU (2 manual, 3 auto) I have seen different numbers on the MCU of some P08s though. 201 and 244 I believe. Regardless of MCU code, the P08 can run P30 #203 code, so programming with Crome or Uberdata is possible.
I personally prefer the heated 4 wire o2 sensor. I don't have to wait for the exhaust gases to heat the o2 sensor for the ECU to enter closed loop operation.
Further P08 research can be done in the library at http://www.pgmfi.org
ah ok,
u sure about the programming?
I have a single wire , which is one of the reasons I went p08 in the first place

are the 4wires any better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am sure about the code, at least with the four that I have sitting in my garage and the one in my car. They all have 237 code in the MCU (2 manual, 3 auto) I have seen different numbers on the MCU of some P08s though. 201 and 244 I believe. Regardless of MCU code, the P08 can run P30 #203 code, so programming with Crome or Uberdata is possible.
I personally prefer the heated 4 wire o2 sensor. I don't have to wait for the exhaust gases to heat the o2 sensor for the ECU to enter closed loop operation.
Further P08 research can be done in the library at http://www.pgmfi.org
Yeah when you chip the ECU make sure that you have a good solder (power and not to big). Take great care not to touch the board itself. It helps to have an extra hand to pull the resistors too. I know somebody that burned a perfectly fine p28.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah when you chip the ECU make sure that you have a good solder (power and not to big). Take great care not to touch the board itself. It helps to have an extra hand to pull the resistors too. I know somebody that burned a perfectly fine p28.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since the P08 uses SMD components, you would need a soldering iron that is certified ESD safe that also has a small enough tip to solder the SMD 74HC373 gate.
Since the P08 uses SMD components, you would need a soldering iron that is certified ESD safe that also has a small enough tip to solder the SMD 74HC373 gate.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't get the single thing that you just said but could you translate? It's kind of interesting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
SMD means Surface Mount Device. These parts are physically smaller and soldered directly to the circuit board. The P28 is a "through hole" design, using larger components that insert into drilled holes in the circuit board.
ESD meand Electrostatic Discharge. ESD is what you feel after walking across the carpet in socks on a dry day, and touching something and getting a spark. The ESD will destroy the silicon chip inside the EPROM and gate chips used to alter the programming on an ECU. An ESD safe soldering iron is grounded to dissipate the static charge before it can damage the electronics.
The small size of and distance between the legs on the SMD 74HC373 require a small tip and correct heat range to avoid overheating the chip during soldering.
SMD means Surface Mount Device. These parts are physically smaller and soldered directly to the circuit board. The P28 is a "through hole" design, using larger components that insert into drilled holes in the circuit board.
ESD meand Electrostatic Discharge. ESD is what you feel after walking across the carpet in socks on a dry day, and touching something and getting a spark. The ESD will destroy the silicon chip inside the EPROM and gate chips used to alter the programming on an ECU. An ESD safe soldering iron is grounded to dissipate the static charge before it can damage the electronics.
The small size of and distance between the legs on the SMD 74HC373 require a small tip and correct heat range to avoid overheating the chip during soldering.
mahhhhhh ****** crap basket
i didnt think it'd be this complicated...
I read somewhere that converting a p28 was just unsoldering one chip!!
didnt think a p08 would be any more difficult..
effin a
i didnt think it'd be this complicated...
I read somewhere that converting a p28 was just unsoldering one chip!!
didnt think a p08 would be any more difficult..
effin a
i think this question will help many a folks out..
anybody in the s.f. bay area experienced in soldering/de-soldering components onto honda ecu's? i ran into a couple, but now seems about the time...
--tad needs his p08 (auto) converted to 5spd..
--i need my p06 (5spd) converted to p08spec (5spd)
thanks all! i just dont feel comfortable dealing with such small and delicate things...
anybody in the s.f. bay area experienced in soldering/de-soldering components onto honda ecu's? i ran into a couple, but now seems about the time...
--tad needs his p08 (auto) converted to 5spd..
--i need my p06 (5spd) converted to p08spec (5spd)
thanks all! i just dont feel comfortable dealing with such small and delicate things...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know if the p08 auto-manual process is the same as a p28 auto-manual???
thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the components and procedure are slightly different. I clearly described the conversion process in my post above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be, since I think they use the same board with just little different fuel map, and 1 wire o2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The boards are not the same. The P08 is smaller and uses surface mount components.
thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the components and procedure are slightly different. I clearly described the conversion process in my post above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be, since I think they use the same board with just little different fuel map, and 1 wire o2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The boards are not the same. The P08 is smaller and uses surface mount components.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsiR20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think this question will help many a folks out..
anybody in the s.f. bay area experienced in soldering/de-soldering components onto honda ecu's? i ran into a couple, but now seems about the time...
--tad needs his p08 (auto) converted to 5spd..
--i need my p06 (5spd) converted to p08spec (5spd)
thanks all! i just dont feel comfortable dealing with such small and delicate things...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm in San Diego and I could modify the ECUs. Shipping is fairly reasonable for a 3 pound package.
The P08 is so easy I would do it for $5 plus return shipping. The P06 converted to P08 spec would be $65 plus return shipping due to the additional cost to convert it to control VTEC. It might just be cheaper to find a P08 and convert it to 4 wire o2 sensor.
anybody in the s.f. bay area experienced in soldering/de-soldering components onto honda ecu's? i ran into a couple, but now seems about the time...
--tad needs his p08 (auto) converted to 5spd..
--i need my p06 (5spd) converted to p08spec (5spd)
thanks all! i just dont feel comfortable dealing with such small and delicate things...
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm in San Diego and I could modify the ECUs. Shipping is fairly reasonable for a 3 pound package.
The P08 is so easy I would do it for $5 plus return shipping. The P06 converted to P08 spec would be $65 plus return shipping due to the additional cost to convert it to control VTEC. It might just be cheaper to find a P08 and convert it to 4 wire o2 sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm in San Diego and I could modify the ECUs. Shipping is fairly reasonable for a 3 pound package.
The P08 is so easy I would do it for $5 plus return shipping. The P06 converted to P08 spec would be $65 plus return shipping due to the additional cost to convert it to control VTEC. It might just be cheaper to find a P08 and convert it to 4 wire o2 sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm,
well I know jdmSir wants to do the p08 conversion,
how long do you think it'd take you to send the ecu's back out once you recieve them?
We might send together, save some shipping costs.
But I do need mine asap, as I'm swapping my motor in once I get my transmission and headers.
However I think I should be able to drive, albiet carefully, on a cx ecu.
lmk.
I'm in San Diego and I could modify the ECUs. Shipping is fairly reasonable for a 3 pound package.
The P08 is so easy I would do it for $5 plus return shipping. The P06 converted to P08 spec would be $65 plus return shipping due to the additional cost to convert it to control VTEC. It might just be cheaper to find a P08 and convert it to 4 wire o2 sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm,
well I know jdmSir wants to do the p08 conversion,
how long do you think it'd take you to send the ecu's back out once you recieve them?
We might send together, save some shipping costs.
But I do need mine asap, as I'm swapping my motor in once I get my transmission and headers.
However I think I should be able to drive, albiet carefully, on a cx ecu.
lmk.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hmm,
well I know jdmSir wants to do the p08 conversion,
how long do you think it'd take you to send the ecu's back out once you recieve them?
We might send together, save some shipping costs.
But I do need mine asap, as I'm swapping my motor in once I get my transmission and headers.
However I think I should be able to drive, albiet carefully, on a cx ecu.
lmk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The P08 would definitely be a quick turnaround, say 2 business days Maximum. The conversion only takes 5 minutes. That would cost $5 plus return shipping for a 4.0 pound package from 92084. If you would be interested in raising the speed limiter from 112 mph to 158, let me know. That would cost $45, because I would need to chip the ECU, and because I have an agreement with the creator of the software I use.
The P06-P08 conversion takes about an hour to an hour and a half depending on the ECU board configuration. There is a part number on the circuit board of the ECU. I need to know if it is an 11F0 board or a 1720 board.
If you wanted to ship them together, figure a 2 day max turnaround and calculate the shipping cost from 92084 for a 7 pound package.
hmm,
well I know jdmSir wants to do the p08 conversion,
how long do you think it'd take you to send the ecu's back out once you recieve them?
We might send together, save some shipping costs.
But I do need mine asap, as I'm swapping my motor in once I get my transmission and headers.
However I think I should be able to drive, albiet carefully, on a cx ecu.
lmk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The P08 would definitely be a quick turnaround, say 2 business days Maximum. The conversion only takes 5 minutes. That would cost $5 plus return shipping for a 4.0 pound package from 92084. If you would be interested in raising the speed limiter from 112 mph to 158, let me know. That would cost $45, because I would need to chip the ECU, and because I have an agreement with the creator of the software I use.
The P06-P08 conversion takes about an hour to an hour and a half depending on the ECU board configuration. There is a part number on the circuit board of the ECU. I need to know if it is an 11F0 board or a 1720 board.
If you wanted to ship them together, figure a 2 day max turnaround and calculate the shipping cost from 92084 for a 7 pound package.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hmm,
well I know jdmSir wants to do the p08 conversion,
how long do you think it'd take you to send the ecu's back out once you recieve them?
We might send together, save some shipping costs.
But I do need mine asap, as I'm swapping my motor in once I get my transmission and headers.
However I think I should be able to drive, albiet carefully, on a cx ecu.
lmk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use cx header, also you can use cx tranny but it's not worth swapping it out later on (so wait for a new one), you can use cx ECU as long as you won't (just no vtec and a lower rev limit).
hmm,
well I know jdmSir wants to do the p08 conversion,
how long do you think it'd take you to send the ecu's back out once you recieve them?
We might send together, save some shipping costs.
But I do need mine asap, as I'm swapping my motor in once I get my transmission and headers.
However I think I should be able to drive, albiet carefully, on a cx ecu.
lmk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use cx header, also you can use cx tranny but it's not worth swapping it out later on (so wait for a new one), you can use cx ECU as long as you won't (just no vtec and a lower rev limit).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use cx header, also you can use cx tranny but it's not worth swapping it out later on (so wait for a new one), you can use cx ECU as long as you won't (just no vtec and a lower rev limit).</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, definetly not putting hte cx tranny back on,
all my cx stuff will probly be sold off anyways.
ima need a header and exhaust fo sho.
yeah, definetly not putting hte cx tranny back on,
all my cx stuff will probly be sold off anyways.
ima need a header and exhaust fo sho.
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