CRX won't start, but was just running.
Ok...here's the deal...was just tooling around town in my REX and returned home. Bud and I were going to do some work on it and went to move it from the street to the garage after being turned off for about 15 minutes. Was running like a champ.
Would not start when I went to move it. Main Relay, Battery and starter are all working...and it sounds the the distributor rotor is trying to turn, but no dice on ignition. The distributor rotor/cap/main relay/and starter are all new.
Sounds like the coil is gone...not sure...ride has 188k on it.
Any ideas? I can always go to the junkyard and pull whatever I need manana.
Would not start when I went to move it. Main Relay, Battery and starter are all working...and it sounds the the distributor rotor is trying to turn, but no dice on ignition. The distributor rotor/cap/main relay/and starter are all new.
Sounds like the coil is gone...not sure...ride has 188k on it.
Any ideas? I can always go to the junkyard and pull whatever I need manana.
Actually I think it is the fuel pump...I hear nothing...even if the relay was out you would hear it...that I know from experience.
Actually I put in a new battery...problem masked itself and now still persists. Put in new battery...and car cranked up just like new. Let it run a bit...drove it around the block and then parked it again in the driveway. For the heck of it I started it up again immediately after turning it off and again it would not turn over. Noticed the clamp on the negative terminal lead to the battery is 3/4 broke through on one side. Relay is clicking, starter is engaging and you can hear the dizzy rotor trying to turn...but no dice. This is really starting to **** me off!
What else should I try?
Modified by Therapy at 11:27 AM 6/7/2004
What else should I try?
Modified by Therapy at 11:27 AM 6/7/2004
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Relay is brand new as of last year. Car stored the winter.
One thing I noticed when the old battery was still in (after jumping car) was that the door light when the driver door was opened was going dim. Car was acting like it wanted to die.
Relay is clicking and working...as I know since I've experienced what happens when it is burned out.
One thing I noticed when the old battery was still in (after jumping car) was that the door light when the driver door was opened was going dim. Car was acting like it wanted to die.
Relay is clicking and working...as I know since I've experienced what happens when it is burned out.
I'm just gonna replace the battery clamps and leads. Fella at work had a similar issue on an entirely different car and said it solved this problem. The clamps look like they have been squeezed too tight one too many times on the battery posts. Obviously by the previous owner. Hence the negative clamp being almost totally broken. But still seems odd if that fixes the issue.
This is bullshit now.
The battery and all the battery leads checkout perfectly. The starter is new and when doing the different jump and multimeter checks everything is good. The Main relay is good. The check instructions that came with the new started suggested some checks...and said something to do with the ignition/starting line/circuit is bad. A honda technician said there is a separate starting relay...somewhere next to the main relay...where the heck and what does this look like?
The battery and all the battery leads checkout perfectly. The starter is new and when doing the different jump and multimeter checks everything is good. The Main relay is good. The check instructions that came with the new started suggested some checks...and said something to do with the ignition/starting line/circuit is bad. A honda technician said there is a separate starting relay...somewhere next to the main relay...where the heck and what does this look like?
The Optima battery always checks at 12.47...even when I was able to to get it running for awhile after jumping it....turned 'er off and multi'd the battery again and still 12.47 or there abouts. I can hear the fuel pump no doubt priming now...and you can hear the fuel flowing into the rail if you've released the pressure by pulling and replacing the gas cap and someone starts it for you while your head is over he engine.
For the heck of it I started to check all of the wire connections under the hood and push and pulled on all of the...including the main harness that comes throught the middle of the fire wall.
Went to turn car over and she started with no problem...drove around the block with no issues and started up 3-4 times there-after with no issues. Anyone had wiring issues like this before?
Went to turn car over and she started with no problem...drove around the block with no issues and started up 3-4 times there-after with no issues. Anyone had wiring issues like this before?
For the heck of it I started to check all of the wire connections under the hood and push and pulled on all of the...including the main harness that comes throught the middle of the fire wall.
Went to turn car over and she started with no problem...drove around the block with no issues and started up 3-4 times there-after with no issues. Anyone had wiring issues like this before?
Went to turn car over and she started with no problem...drove around the block with no issues and started up 3-4 times there-after with no issues. Anyone had wiring issues like this before?
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