i have a 90 civic hatch - i replaced the altenator with a new/reman one and i tried to return the battery when i did it cause bad alt. wreck battery, but they said it tested good and were asses and said they would let me trade it.,. anyways,

is it normal for my engine to hesitate a little and idle lower/rougher when im sitting there and i flip my headlights on? and i see my lights dim a little at lights when i hit my breaks too... its like my electricle system is really weak, but it starts fine. this altenator dont even really run **** besides some lights and a fan. what u guys think? any of you experience this?

 

the alternator runs EVERYTHING in your car. it's the battery that does nothing but start it and provides power while the car is off.

My CRX does this too. I think it's normal.

 

i know it runs everything, i ment this car doesnt have much of a load. some lights and a fan. my car is so basic and dont have power anything.

 

might be due to your low idle. Your alternator will put out so many amps at a low rpm. Thats why when your driving down the road everything is brighter and voltage is higher. Get a voltometer and check your voltage at idle and raise the idle a little to get the desired voltage you want at idle.

 

Yeah that is normal. It's just loading the alternator down so it is harder for the motor to spin it that is why the idle drops and it gets rough...if you rev it with the lights on you will see them get brighter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that is normal. It's just loading the alternator down so it is harder for the motor to spin it that is why the idle drops and it gets rough...if you rev it with the lights on you will see them get brighter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i noticed that... what a ***** altenator. thing must be like a 50 amp

 

Wouldn't hurt to replace the old-frayed-busted-*** ground connections (if you haven't already). Valve-cover to chassis, Valve-cover to block, chassis to tranny.

I use to have the problem you guys did but ever since I bought a better battery, relocated it to the back running 1/0ga wire from the positive and upgraded all my grounds, I've had absolutely no power problems. I can even boom my system full blast at idle (800w of 15" power) and my lights hardly dim.

-edmCRX

 

Here check it

TESTING
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15–20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.


Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.


If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by edmCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't hurt to replace the old-frayed-busted-*** ground connections (if you haven't already). Valve-cover to chassis, Valve-cover to block, chassis to tranny.

I use to have the problem you guys did but ever since I bought a better battery, relocated it to the back running 1/0ga wire from the positive and upgraded all my grounds, I've had absolutely no power problems. I can even boom my system full blast at idle (800w of 15" power) and my lights hardly dim.

-edmCRX</TD></TR></TABLE>

did it right when i got it

 

thanks blackcrx for the load testing. need to do that.

the short of it is. CHECK YOUR GROUND CONNECTIONS!

 

ok now my car does somthing really wierd, i think it has done it before just not as often.

my car starts and runs, when i turn on the headlights it dies, if i shut them off quik enough it comes back to life. when i do turn the lights on the turn signal indicators on my dash are lit also but dim, and my gas gauge starts to drop all the way down. with the lights off, if i tap the breaks my dash lights come on with them, with turn signal arrows lit dim, and the cars starts to kill.

i think a wireharness on my drivers side headlight is bad, or maybe more, im gona try and replace the harness tonight but if this doesnt fix it, i dont know what the fuc is goin on.

 

umm might be a fucked up alternator u just bought

 

seriously, you think wierd **** like that could just be a bad altenator? i dont know about that...