Timing belt tension adjustment
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Berkeley, CA, United States
Timing belt tension adjustment
The Haynes manual doesn't seem to say anything about adjusting the timing belt tension on a B18B. Should this be done with every valve adjustment? Could someone post the directions from the Helms manual?
thx...
thx...
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: Timing belt tension adjustment (RAK)
I always thought that the maintenance schedule for my '95 says to adjust the timing belt tension every 30k miles. That's the same interval as the valve lash adjustment.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13
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From: Berkeley, CA, United States
Re: Timing belt tension adjustment (JimBlake)
Hmm, seems like there are at least two opinions on this. Can someone post the directions? It seems that it would be necessary to remove the power steering pump to access the locking nut?
thx...
thx...
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Re: Timing belt tension adjustment (dangrass)
This is from memory, so... buyer beware!
Take off valve cover & upper timing cover. Removing spark plugs makes it easier to turn the crank.
You can do it without removing the big circular engine mount, but that sure makes it easier the first time. Next time you can do it by feel.
The tensioner lock bolt is in the lower cover, behind a plug that you pull out. There's almost enough room(!?!) for a 14mm 3/8"drive socket. It's tight, you'll want to hold the socket firmly onto the bolt head, because it's real easy to slip & round the corners of the bolt. (6-point socket!)
Turn the engine forward a turn or 2, then loosen the bolt. Turn the crank forward a tiny bit more, this lets the slack move over towards the tensioner. The tensioner spring will take up the slack, but don't let go of the crank pulley or the slack will move elsewhere. If you want you can use a coathanger to pull upwards a bit on the tensioner. Now tighten the tensioner lock bolt.
The belt isn't supposed to be as tight as, say, your AC belt. You should be able to twist the belt about 90 degrees in the long span from crank to exhaust cam.
Actually, I check the tension first. Sometimes it's OK so I don't have to go thru the motions...
Take off valve cover & upper timing cover. Removing spark plugs makes it easier to turn the crank.
You can do it without removing the big circular engine mount, but that sure makes it easier the first time. Next time you can do it by feel.
The tensioner lock bolt is in the lower cover, behind a plug that you pull out. There's almost enough room(!?!) for a 14mm 3/8"drive socket. It's tight, you'll want to hold the socket firmly onto the bolt head, because it's real easy to slip & round the corners of the bolt. (6-point socket!)
Turn the engine forward a turn or 2, then loosen the bolt. Turn the crank forward a tiny bit more, this lets the slack move over towards the tensioner. The tensioner spring will take up the slack, but don't let go of the crank pulley or the slack will move elsewhere. If you want you can use a coathanger to pull upwards a bit on the tensioner. Now tighten the tensioner lock bolt.
The belt isn't supposed to be as tight as, say, your AC belt. You should be able to twist the belt about 90 degrees in the long span from crank to exhaust cam.
Actually, I check the tension first. Sometimes it's OK so I don't have to go thru the motions...
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