My friend has a fully built B18c R with drag gen 3 ,darton sleeves,je pistons, eagle rods and all valvetrain changed etc.....
At idle the car smokes but just at idle and the#4 piston is covered with some type of liquid( petrol or oil ).
The #4 plug is all covered with black ,maybe oil or petrol.
We already changed the head gasket and new valve seals and remained the same.Can somebody give us a clue of what is happening?
Thanks alot guys

 

ttt for help please

 

Where do you have your PVC resivor line connected to? Or where is the line on your valve cover hooked up to? Do you have these ran to a catch can? IF you have these connected to a boosted source than you could be sucking in oil to the manifold. If these aren't the problem than it could be that the turbo seals are leaking alittle too.

It doesn't burn anything out of the exsaust when you drive the car?? You said it burns only at idle.....what does it do when you drive?? Do you have an irratic idle??

What is the fuel setup and ignition setup?? You could be running rich in a cylinder or your plug could be faulty or weak.

 

Even if they are hooked to the turbo outlet - hes not boosting at idle!

 

Ignition is Crane Cams.

And it is using a Vortech FMU and an in line pump on stock ecu.

Rgds,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if they are hooked to the turbo outlet - hes not boosting at idle!</TD></TR></TABLE>

But if he already took it for a ride, boosted, and got a **** load of oil in the engine. It could still be burning off at idle right??

 

I think it would only take a few cycles to burn it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it would only take a few cycles to burn it off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the reason i brought that up is cause i did that and it took about three days of driving to burn it off.

 

Thanks guys for your help you 're giving.
Could it be a valve guide broken or leaking?

 

If guides are worn or there is too much clearance between the guide and valve stem, the engine will use oil. Oil consumption is more of a problem on the intake side due to constant exposure to engine vacuum, oil can also be pulled down the exhaust guides by suction in the exhaust port which could cause the smoke at idle.

When you did the rebuild did you look at the valve guides?? Or if you didn't rebuild it yourself ask whoever did.

 

I rebuild it myself this engine and they were fine but before i did this the c head was at the machine shop for valve seating which i've better if i did them myself like the b18c i've done after this one.
I'm thinking that at the machine shop they have cracked a guide in my opinion,i can't imagine how but.......
If you think like me ,do you know how can i check a cracked guide?

 

Hear its long but informative. Found it off the internet.

"To check guide wear, some machinists insert a valve stem into a guide and "feel" for looseness by wobbling the valve. Others may use a valve seat pilot tool to check the guides. Though either technique will reveal badly worn guides, neither is a very accurate method of gauging guide clearances or wear.

The best way to check guide wear is with a gauge set designed for this purpose. A gauge set will give you precise measurements and can be used to measure any portion of the guide. To check guide wear (as well as taper) using a telescoping or split ball gauge, measure the guide ID at both ends and in the middle. Subtract the middle reading from the ends to determine taper wear. Compare the smallest ID measurement (usually in the middle of the guide) to the factory specs to determine total wear.

Valve stems should also be measured to check for wear and sizing. Nominal sizes vary quite a bit depending on the application, and there’s no way of knowing if the valve has been replaced previously with one of a different size without measuring.

Many late model engines have tapered valve stems. Taper stem valves are ground with the stem diameter smaller at the head end of the valve. This is done to create a larger clearance at the head where the temperatures are highest. This reduces the change of galling with unleaded fuel and narrow three-angle valve seats. When measuring a tapered stem, check the outside diameter about an inch in for each end."

 

Thanks alot guy for this info.
The valves are new from crower so i don't think that the valve stem is worn.
So i 'll check well for the guide but first of all i 'll check for small cracks coz the other 12 guides are not worn at all,and the problem is only on the #4 ,

 

Good point!! That narrows down your search to just cylinder 4 hope you find out whats wrong...cause that's a nice engine to not be running right. Good luck and let us know what happens.

 

Thanks alot again.
I'll let you know for sure