I did a SEARCH but, found nothing helpful. I am trying to find info or links to great info in particular to hondas' (F22/H22/H23, OR ANY) and how the machining is done, how many mm is the center moved up on the pin, how much clearence for the end of the rod in the piston and, if any companies make special orders with the pin move up that don't cost a fortune.
Thanks in advance for your post.

 

what are you wanting to do.are you wanting to puta h23 crank in a h22 but are trying to use the h22 rods,or are you trying something else.

 

Your talking about spending a ton of money.
Custom pistions plus a cusom set of rods=$,$$$.$$

Some of endyns pistions have a raised wristpin. http://www.theoldone.com

I saw a set of b series pistions that had a raised pin located up into the oil ring and then they went even further and used a smaller diameter pin from a d sereis piston to raise the pivot point even more. Big bucks

 

No ,I'm just doing research. I have an F22a1 that will be getting a head swap in a year ( p13 or p14 not sure yet). I eventually ( if I win the lotto) plan to get the block sleeved , 11.5: CR pistons and lighter forged rods. I was actually reading the articles in "theoldone" and, now I really understand why our engines (pistons,rings, cyl. wall) last so long.... Small bores ( on long stroke engines) I want to over bore to 88 or 89mm but do not want to put more side load on the pistons but, also did not want to de-stroke to a H22 or F20 crank and lose torque. Guess I could go the easy route and go H22 90.7mm crank and overbore to 89mm to get 2257cc ...

 

torque is affected by both stroke and r/s ratio. you can affect your r/s ratio without having to destroke it also.

what do you want this engine to do in the end?

 

I want it to be a descent dailydriver/weekend track car and, still be reliable past 100k after the build. I was trying to find another to increase the r/s ratio slightly (very slightly) so that reving to 6900-7200 ish would not be like playing chicken with the crank bearings and the head. " you can effect your r/s ratio with out destroking". yea that's why I'm trying to get piston pin placement info so I can fun a slightly longer rod ( that's the only way w/o desrtoking). Yea, yea I thought a deck plate a year ago but, as far as I know that WILL NOT be reliable.

 

easy fix to all of this. buy lighter pistons/rods, this will reduce mass which will reduce sideload in and of itself. run a tighter piston-to-wall clearance. get a plateau hone so when the engine breaks it, it will be nearly a mirror finish. make sure the crank is balanced to the weight of your rotating mass. h-beams cut thru the air easier than i-beam rods. but most importantly, buy Mobil-1 oil from the nearest Mercedes-Benz dealership. it is better than the Mobil-1 at the local Autozone, Checkers, etc...

if you are driven to change the r/s ratio, you probably only need to increase the rod length by 4mm tops. but remember, this will change your torque curve by itself. a higher r/s ratio makes the torque curve narrow, and vice-versa.

 

Yea 'I'm planning to run forged rods and pistons but was not thinking about the lighter rotating mass reducing the side load on the pistons (duh! ). Guess my original plan will be fine. Just wanted to beable to rev past the F22'S 6800 redline although I will not be reving past 7000 if even that much. Man seems like the more stuff and info I learn the dumber I get ( more of a chance of messing somthing up).
Thanks for the info.
What's the difference w/ Mercedes oil and discount? Are they getting theirs from the middle east ( best oil) and everyone else getting it from south America?

 

i dont know if they get oil from a different place, its just slicker. Mobil-1 on an Autozone shelf isnt fit for a MB. it probably has different additives. another great oil is Shell Helix. Shell Helix is what they use in Formula 1 engines, but the Shell you can buy online at a few different sites is a healthy strain of the F1 Shell Helix.

better to learn the easy way than the hard, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

better to learn the easy way than the hard, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it is.