Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude
So I've gotten to work on my Prelude today, finally.
It did not crank, and I started troubleshooting. I checked the spark, and the plugs and wires were good. I checked the ground straps going between the valve cover, motor mount, and unibody, and sanded it all down so it was definitely getting a good ground. I then moved on to fuel.
If I pull the service bolt on the fuel rail and turn the key on, it spurts fuel, so her fuel pump is fine. I pulled the injectors stuck my multimeter in one of the injector's plugs. I turned the ignition key to ON I got voltage.....a buddy of mine said that's normal, since the injectors use a switched-ground system. So I gave the injectors some juice by running some wires from the points to the battery, and they clicked. BUT one of them clicked much louder than the others.....I assume they're all good since they all clicked. I then put a test light into the harness to see if it pulsed when I cranked the car, and it didn't....but I'm not sure if it may just be that my test light won't show a Honda's pulses, and I couldn't get my multimeter to work right.
So I grab my Helm's and start troubleshooting. One big thing I noticed right off the bat was that MIL light was not coming on for 2 seconds when I turned the key to ON. I checked the METER fuse, and it was fine. So the Helm's says there is a problem in the wire to the dash light.
So anyone got any ideas as to why it is not cranking? I might actually have a MIL, but I just don't know........
Argh!
It did not crank, and I started troubleshooting. I checked the spark, and the plugs and wires were good. I checked the ground straps going between the valve cover, motor mount, and unibody, and sanded it all down so it was definitely getting a good ground. I then moved on to fuel.
If I pull the service bolt on the fuel rail and turn the key on, it spurts fuel, so her fuel pump is fine. I pulled the injectors stuck my multimeter in one of the injector's plugs. I turned the ignition key to ON I got voltage.....a buddy of mine said that's normal, since the injectors use a switched-ground system. So I gave the injectors some juice by running some wires from the points to the battery, and they clicked. BUT one of them clicked much louder than the others.....I assume they're all good since they all clicked. I then put a test light into the harness to see if it pulsed when I cranked the car, and it didn't....but I'm not sure if it may just be that my test light won't show a Honda's pulses, and I couldn't get my multimeter to work right.
So I grab my Helm's and start troubleshooting. One big thing I noticed right off the bat was that MIL light was not coming on for 2 seconds when I turned the key to ON. I checked the METER fuse, and it was fine. So the Helm's says there is a problem in the wire to the dash light.
So anyone got any ideas as to why it is not cranking? I might actually have a MIL, but I just don't know........
Argh!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Bowling Green, KY, 42101
Re: Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude (LudeyKrus)
If your MIL does not light up either the circuit the light is on is screwed up (Possibly a shot bulb) or your computer is not working correctly. But with it trying to start, commanding fuel, and giving spark, I would say your computer is probably ok.
From what i can see you think your Injectors are not getting voltage? If i read correctly.
They make a light called a NOID light that you stick on any one of the injector harness plugs, It will pulse as you try to start it. I think a standard test light would probably show some evidence of trying to light however. If you are sure they are not getting power check the fuel injector resistor box, it is the small aluminum block with cooling fins, located on the driver side close to the firewall.
To check this disconnect the harness, when looking at it, one pin will be by itself, check resistance between that pin and the other four, using it as your ground for the other four terminals. You should have 5-7 Ohms per pin.
Hopefully this will help, Or i could be way off.
If i remember anything else i will be glad to let you know. Good Luck 
From what i can see you think your Injectors are not getting voltage? If i read correctly.
They make a light called a NOID light that you stick on any one of the injector harness plugs, It will pulse as you try to start it. I think a standard test light would probably show some evidence of trying to light however. If you are sure they are not getting power check the fuel injector resistor box, it is the small aluminum block with cooling fins, located on the driver side close to the firewall.
To check this disconnect the harness, when looking at it, one pin will be by itself, check resistance between that pin and the other four, using it as your ground for the other four terminals. You should have 5-7 Ohms per pin.
Hopefully this will help, Or i could be way off.
If i remember anything else i will be glad to let you know. Good Luck 
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,357
Likes: 1
Re: Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude (LudeyKrus)
Is the ecu you're using one that you've used before so you know it is good? Have you tried another ecu? If so or if you can, see if the MIL comes on, if not you might want to fix whatever wiring problem there might be in the dash... Like you said, you could have a MIL and you just don't know...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 6
From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude (LudeyKrus)
the way to check to see if your injectors are getting a pule, is to set your multimeter to a/c volts and put one lead to one wire in the clip adn the other to the other wire, and have someone crank the car,, you should read an a/c voltage while its cranking and no voltage when your not cranking
do me the favor and make sure all your timing marks line up, so i know that we are in in sync here LOL,,, check that the lines all line up at TDC.. if they do:
then get a timing light, paint a little white out on the crank pulley where TDC for cyclinder 1 is or pull the little rubber cover out of the tranny and paint that marker white, and hook the timing light up to cylinder one wire and make sure that when your cranking your getting a spark at the right time for cylinder one
do me the favor and make sure all your timing marks line up, so i know that we are in in sync here LOL,,, check that the lines all line up at TDC.. if they do:
then get a timing light, paint a little white out on the crank pulley where TDC for cyclinder 1 is or pull the little rubber cover out of the tranny and paint that marker white, and hook the timing light up to cylinder one wire and make sure that when your cranking your getting a spark at the right time for cylinder one
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
I also think that the ECU must be workin right if it's workin the fuel injectors, and everything else SEEMS to be working right. I may try swapping it out w/ another one, if I can get ahold of my bud.
And Prelittlelude: I thought you could only get an accurate timing reading if your car was idling?
How hard is it to get ot the MIL light's bulb? I don't have my manual.....
And Prelittlelude: I thought you could only get an accurate timing reading if your car was idling?
How hard is it to get ot the MIL light's bulb? I don't have my manual.....
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
From: Szczecin, Poland
Re: (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How hard is it to get ot the MIL light's bulb? I don't have my manual.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
You must pull the gauges out. Just about 10 screws and you are there.
How hard is it to get ot the MIL light's bulb? I don't have my manual.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
You must pull the gauges out. Just about 10 screws and you are there.
Trending Topics
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 6
From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And Prelittlelude: I thought you could only get an accurate timing reading if your car was idling?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you can get an accurate reading because reguarless of whether its idling or not you should still be getting a spark a couple of degrees from TDC.. to get and absolute precise reading then yes it needs to be idling. but the idea is to see if you have a spark close to TDC..
And Prelittlelude: I thought you could only get an accurate timing reading if your car was idling?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you can get an accurate reading because reguarless of whether its idling or not you should still be getting a spark a couple of degrees from TDC.. to get and absolute precise reading then yes it needs to be idling. but the idea is to see if you have a spark close to TDC..
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Well I pulled the dash apart today and it turns out that someone had pulled out the CEL light bulb!
MORE reason to never let anyone else work on my car.....
But the only code I was getting was #21- VTEC, which I already knew I would be getting. So now i'm stumped.
I have checked over everything, and it all looks right. Everything's hooked up. I just don't know now....
MORE reason to never let anyone else work on my car.....
But the only code I was getting was #21- VTEC, which I already knew I would be getting. So now i'm stumped.
I have checked over everything, and it all looks right. Everything's hooked up. I just don't know now....
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
I went to check over things and I found that I forgot to connect the grounding bracket that connects the battery ground cable to the tranny housing, but that didn't make the car start.
I'm really getting frustrated with this bitch, I may be paying someone to fix it soon.....
I'm really getting frustrated with this bitch, I may be paying someone to fix it soon.....
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Re: (LudeyKrus)
So I got my Mustang-building cousin in the garage tonight and we started brainstorming. I pulled the valve cover and looked at the cam markings, and they were set correctly.
We then pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the distributor rotor is not pointing at the #1 wire, as it should; instead, it is pointing about 40-50 degrees counterclockwise!!!
The only thing I can think of is this: maybe I got the exhaust and intake cams swapped. They both have a groove cut in the end for the distributor; therefore, they both would bolt up to the dizzy.
How can I determine which cam is which on the H22? My H23 has it labeled on the cam, but I don't see it on my H22 cams...
We then pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the distributor rotor is not pointing at the #1 wire, as it should; instead, it is pointing about 40-50 degrees counterclockwise!!!
The only thing I can think of is this: maybe I got the exhaust and intake cams swapped. They both have a groove cut in the end for the distributor; therefore, they both would bolt up to the dizzy.
How can I determine which cam is which on the H22? My H23 has it labeled on the cam, but I don't see it on my H22 cams...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 6
From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I got my Mustang-building cousin in the garage tonight and we started brainstorming. I pulled the valve cover and looked at the cam markings, and they were set correctly.
We then pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the distributor rotor is not pointing at the #1 wire, as it should; instead, it is pointing about 40-50 degrees counterclockwise!!!
The only thing I can think of is this: maybe I got the exhaust and intake cams swapped. They both have a groove cut in the end for the distributor; therefore, they both would bolt up to the dizzy.
How can I determine which cam is which on the H22? My H23 has it labeled on the cam, but I don't see it on my H22 cams...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
first off are you sure that you have all the plug wires right where they should be,
and i can't remember but also are you POSITIVE that the exhaust and intake have the grove in the end for the ditributer teeth to slide into..?
also make sure that cylinder one is at absolute TDC when the came markings are both pointing up and marking line up.
often when troubleshooting its not just one thing wrong. so don't get frustrated, take your time. troubleshooting is the most pain in the *** but SO rewarding. if you fix it you can say YOU did it YOURSELF.
We then pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the distributor rotor is not pointing at the #1 wire, as it should; instead, it is pointing about 40-50 degrees counterclockwise!!!
The only thing I can think of is this: maybe I got the exhaust and intake cams swapped. They both have a groove cut in the end for the distributor; therefore, they both would bolt up to the dizzy.
How can I determine which cam is which on the H22? My H23 has it labeled on the cam, but I don't see it on my H22 cams...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
first off are you sure that you have all the plug wires right where they should be,
and i can't remember but also are you POSITIVE that the exhaust and intake have the grove in the end for the ditributer teeth to slide into..?
also make sure that cylinder one is at absolute TDC when the came markings are both pointing up and marking line up.
often when troubleshooting its not just one thing wrong. so don't get frustrated, take your time. troubleshooting is the most pain in the *** but SO rewarding. if you fix it you can say YOU did it YOURSELF.
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,357
Likes: 1
Re: Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
We then pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the distributor rotor is not pointing at the #1 wire, as it should; instead, it is pointing about 40-50 degrees counterclockwise!!!
The only thing I can think of is this: maybe I got the exhaust and intake cams swapped. They both have a groove cut in the end for the distributor; therefore, they both would bolt up to the dizzy.
How can I determine which cam is which on the H22? My H23 has it labeled on the cam, but I don't see it on my H22 cams...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definitely look into that...
We then pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the distributor rotor is not pointing at the #1 wire, as it should; instead, it is pointing about 40-50 degrees counterclockwise!!!
The only thing I can think of is this: maybe I got the exhaust and intake cams swapped. They both have a groove cut in the end for the distributor; therefore, they both would bolt up to the dizzy.
How can I determine which cam is which on the H22? My H23 has it labeled on the cam, but I don't see it on my H22 cams...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definitely look into that...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Well it turns out the timing marks weren't lined up.....and my water pump's leaking.
Thank god I know what it is now! Shoulda checked that earlier, but oh well! Time to get back into the motor!
Thank god I know what it is now! Shoulda checked that earlier, but oh well! Time to get back into the motor!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 6
From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well it turns out the timing marks weren't lined up.....and my water pump's leaking.
Thank god I know what it is now! Shoulda checked that earlier, but oh well! Time to get back into the motor!</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do me the favor and make sure all your timing marks line up, so i know that we are in in sync here LOL,,, check that the lines all line up at TDC.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ah a!!! i knew it, one of the first things i said, timing marks will do it ever time..
oh and about the leaking water pump, you don't need that anyway .. water pumps are starting to become "rice" anyway, just rip it out, youll be fine lol
Thank god I know what it is now! Shoulda checked that earlier, but oh well! Time to get back into the motor!</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do me the favor and make sure all your timing marks line up, so i know that we are in in sync here LOL,,, check that the lines all line up at TDC.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ah a!!! i knew it, one of the first things i said, timing marks will do it ever time..
oh and about the leaking water pump, you don't need that anyway .. water pumps are starting to become "rice" anyway, just rip it out, youll be fine lol
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Re: Help Me Troubleshoot My B*tch....I Mean Prelude (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ah a!!! i knew it, one of the first things i said, timing marks will do it ever time..
oh and about the leaking water pump, you don't need that anyway .. water pumps are starting to become "rice" anyway, just rip it out, youll be fine lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, if it still leaks when I get done w/ it, then I'm just gonna say the car's sweating from all of the power!
Yeah, I checked the timing marks and they sure weren't right! So I've got the belts off again and am gonna start reassmebling it again tonight.
With my manual tensioner swap and the motor still in the car, it looks like i'm gonna have a hell of a time getting the belts back on!
ah a!!! i knew it, one of the first things i said, timing marks will do it ever time..
oh and about the leaking water pump, you don't need that anyway .. water pumps are starting to become "rice" anyway, just rip it out, youll be fine lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>Haha, if it still leaks when I get done w/ it, then I'm just gonna say the car's sweating from all of the power!
Yeah, I checked the timing marks and they sure weren't right! So I've got the belts off again and am gonna start reassmebling it again tonight.
With my manual tensioner swap and the motor still in the car, it looks like i'm gonna have a hell of a time getting the belts back on!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 1
From: Flowery Branch, Ga
AND THE BITCH IS BACK!!!!!
Just got it running, and let me say that when this thing has no exhaust, it is one MEAN sounding bitch!
I've still got the axles apart, and gotta troubleshoot out a fuel injector and MAP sensor code, but DAMN it feels good to be able to hear your accomplishment!
Just got it running, and let me say that when this thing has no exhaust, it is one MEAN sounding bitch!
I've still got the axles apart, and gotta troubleshoot out a fuel injector and MAP sensor code, but DAMN it feels good to be able to hear your accomplishment!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
