Hi

I have a B16a I will turbocharge it soon, what do you guys think about the block gaurds?

I have heard of good and bad things, like over heat and such.

Does it matter what brand or should I get the nuformz?

One last thing any info on copper head gaskets? Is it better then stock?

Thanks

 

bump i'd llike to know

 

like to know too...also do you just put the block guard in without any modifications?

 

Here, there should be good information within both these threads:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=484630

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=412298

 

This might change your mind... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=485070

 

block guard is a fine. I have used one for two years no problems. no overheating.
Mine is race engineering.

 

Here's some pics of my friend's LS turbo that I'm building. It's Golden Eagle block guard.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D


http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

 

nice pictures...how hard was it to install??...how long did it take you and what did u have to do?


EDIT: also when is it nessecsary to install one??

 

blockguards are only bad if you dont do it right!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Powered By D15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice pictures...how hard was it to install??...how long did it take you and what did u have to do?


EDIT: also when is it nessecsary to install one??</TD></TR></TABLE>

It only took me no more than 10 min. maybe less. It's not hard at all. All you have to do is line the BG to the hole and make sure the chamfered side facing down and tap it light with a rubber mallet down pass the flush of the deck a little bit. If you have to force it in there, don't do it, take it off and shave the area that is tight with a file and try it again until it slide right in quite easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It only took me no more than 10 min. maybe less. It's not hard at all. All you have to do is line the BG to the hole and make sure the chamfered side facing down and tap it light with a rubber mallet down pass the flush of the deck a little bit. If you have to force it in there, don't do it, take it off and shave the area that is tight with a file and try it again until it slide right in quite easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

isnt this bad? from what ive heard you need to weld it in, bore and hone to make sure that it doesnt warp the cylinders in the future (like turning egg shaped)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jvithayapun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

isnt this bad? from what ive heard you need to weld it in, bore and hone to make sure that it doesnt warp the cylinders in the future (like turning egg shaped)</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's perfectly safe. After I installed the BG, I took the motor to the shop and have them check for roundness of the cylinder and it turn out that #1,#2 & # 4 are zero. Meaning its perfectly round. and #3 is .0005 off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's perfectly safe. After I installed the BG, I took the motor to the shop and have them check for roundness of the cylinder and it turn out that #1,#2 & # 4 are zero. Meaning its perfectly round. and #3 is .0005 off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how bout after driving it around and all that, wont that affect the cylinder shape after a while?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jvithayapun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how bout after driving it around and all that, wont that affect the cylinder shape after a while?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I highly doubt it. Look at those people that are using it, the majority of them have no problem at all.
Vic

 

I think that if it's rather loose (like a couple thousandths of an inch) that would be the safest, allowing a little bit of expansion...even if you only have to tap it in, it would seem that the sleeves would expand enough to apply a lot of pressure where the sleeve is.

It seems that Sonny and Bryson have or will brace their blocks with with some studs about 2/3 of the way up the sleeves...does anyone know if this will pose a problem with expansion of the sleeve and having such a small contact area?

I can't afford to get my block sleeved, so I think I am going to stud it and POUND in a block gaurd sound like a good plan?

 

i would say no but ive seen bad experiences with blockguards. But it may have been the install. Basically if you have to cram the blockgurad in the coolant passages to get it to fit then when the engine goes through a few heat cycles it may egg-shape the cylinders. Just something to think about. also i have seen many dyno graphs on stock sleeves that made well over 300whp so why mess with a good thing. detonation kills motors not necessarily just the boost level.