Well over the weekend i spun a bearing in my gsr

Now i'm debating on rebuilding the bottom end or just junking it and getting a new one. What would be my best bet to go with. I've been told that once u spin a bearing it's hard to get the correct bearing for that block because each block has their own code of what size bearing goes in. Is that true?

If anyone can help me out it'd be greatly appreciated.


thanks, john

 

how did you do it? whats your setup? just curious

 

we think the oil pump died

 

sucky....

well, you will need to get the crank polished, if not grinded, and get new bearings. Just pick what oil clearance you want and plastigauge it to find the clearance. Say you go .010 over stock on the rods, then tell that to Honda...whatever color that is. You could run a bigger clearance for less friction, but that's all up to you or the builder.

Probably damaged the rod also, so that will need to be recon'd as well.

for crank work and bearings, if you assemble yourself, coud be donefor under 300

 

i see, how much does a job like that run you? i have a buddy that could do the work for me.

i was also just thinking of throwing in ctr pistons and rods if i had to change the rods

bump up the compression

 

crank grind/polish is usually about 60 bucks, bearings my cost is cheap(work for Honda) and labor is free

and find a good machnist to press out the old wrist pins if you want to keep your old pistons in good shape

 

i gotcha, thanks for the help

 

 

bump...anyone else think it's worth it/not worth the trouble?

 

Honestly I'm not a fan of having a cank turned and running oversized bearings.

Example?

My shop just had to eat an entire H22A engine for a customer because we decided to get a crank turned and polished and we installed it into his H22A engine that we swapped in a few years ago.

His crank was fucked up on the end where the crank pulley bolt went in, so we sent the crank off to be fixed and it could not be fixed. The crank shop instead gave us another crank that had been welded up and turned and they provided the "correct sized" bearings too.

Well that was in January and the ******* crank started moving side to side because the crankwork wasn't fantasic. Seems as though the thrust washer moved and we got end play on the crank.

Now we're just replacing the entire engine because of a bad decision with getting a worked crank to fix a problem - this costs the customer ZERO dollars.

I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm...good point

 

ttt

 

buy a new engine and part out the old engine...

 

why would i sell the old engine if the head has 5 miles on it and MINT and it's just a spun bearing

 

up

 

some more feedback please

 

There is nothing wrong with running a crank that has been ground. You can specify the clearance you want usually within .0001-.0002" depending on how good the crank grinder is. Using a welded crank is something entirely different that I would never do.

 

I ran into the same prob with my d series, it seemed to be cheaper to find a new complete bottom end then to replace everything.

 

But then again d series are alot cheaper and easier to find then b series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skuby_do &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran into the same prob with my d series, it seemed to be cheaper to find a new complete bottom end then to replace everything. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude what do you have to replace? The bearings and rings..that's it. It's cheap, it will work and the bottom end will be fresh. Why would you rather buy a whole new bottom end that you don't even know the condition of.....it just doesn't make any sense.

 

yup the bottom is at the machine shop right now getting new bearings and rings

 

why do you believe it spun a bearing? What exactly happened, sound like?

 

just put a rebuilt head on my bottom, took it out for a spin, opened vtec a couple times, only brought it up to like 7500.

went to turn around to go back to the shop we were doin it at and you heard a loud nasty banging from the bay. sounded like a rod knock, took the motor out, head off, then cranked the block with a 3/8ths ratchet and there was a sound comming from cylinder 1, sure enough it was what we assumed it was

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly I'm not a fan of having a cank turned and running oversized bearings.
Well that was in January and the ******* crank started moving side to side because the crankwork wasn't fantasic. Seems as though the thrust washer moved and we got end play on the crank.

Now we're just replacing the entire engine because of a bad decision with getting a worked crank to fix a problem - this costs the customer ZERO dollars.

I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this crank walk problem is not a problem due to bad crank polishing, who ever put the motor together put the thrust bearing in wrong. this happend to 3 of my customers in 3 different motors. when the blocks were put together by somebody else the second time around we fixed the problem.

when using a worked crank i never use honda bearings as they dont come in sizes but colors. i have always used acl bearings in what ever size i machined the crank and i have never had problems. i ran my turbo d motor to 8200rpms on 10lbs hard as hell for about 6months and now i have a zc piston d16z6 turning 8500 and i have not had any problems in 3500miles