. . .when my best friend was torquing down one of the top two nuts that secure the header flange to the block, he overtorqued it and broke off part of the threaded bolt that comes off the block. So now I have two questions to pose to you:

1. Should I beat him with a wiffle bat, or a sack of door *****?

2. How would I go about fixing this problem, or getting it fixed? Are those threaded bolts replaceable?

Your help is much appreciated.

 

it's not your friends fault. it's yours for having a friend do your work on your car. so please...don't blame it on him.

 

I was working on it as well. At that very time I was threading in the lower bolts into the header. My real question is can the threaded bolt body extruding from the block be replaced?

 

I did the same thing while torquing down on one of the front struts when i installed the springs. does the nut fit on the bolt? like, when (or can) you secure the nut in place, does it clear the broken part of the bolt?

 

first off i say use the whiffle ball bat

and second is it the one where the end stats in the head or is it the kind where you can take the whole bolt out , either way you take it out the same way, but you buy a different bolt, either one you can buy at honda for really cheap just tell them what it is and what year and model your car is and hell go get you one, then go to like home depot or lowes or what ever hardware store is around and get and tap kit, it should be a small bit and another with the threads goin backwords, first you drill in with the small bit and make and whole , then take the other bit with the bak words threads, drill it in, turn drill in reverse, while drilling it out pull on the drill it should come right out,

good luck

 

I say beat him with the wiffle ball bat..

 

You can buy replacement hardware at your friendly neighborhood Honda/Acura dealer.

Use an extractor to get the old stud out.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT

 

Bet you guys weren't using a torque wrench. Don't have the time to do it right but now you gotta make the time to do it over. I learned the hard way too, do it right, the first time.

 

We were using a torque wrench, set for 17ft/lbs which is the factory setting. We think that the adjustable handle was a bit loose at that setting and it may have turned when my friend grabbed it to torque it down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gabe_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can buy replacement hardware at your friendly neighborhood Honda/Acura dealer.

Use an extractor to get the old stud out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Damn, all this for such a simple fix. Header bolts break all the time, just get bolt extractors to get the old one out and go buy a new $.70 one from Acura.

 

how do you like the JR header? im thinking of buying one myself. what did you pay for it, if you dont mind?

 

The JR header is a nice piece indeed, maybe not as nice as the Toda header, but I like the versatility of it with having the removable test pipe. Before I installed the header I dynoed at 182.7whp and 129.xft/lb(with AEM CAI). Dynoed after putting on the header and got 195.1whp and 134.xft/lbs. On the graph the only real hp gains were after VTEC engaged, but it still jumped 10-15whp more than just with the AEM CAI. As far as price, I paid $500 for mine, if you want to know where, pm me.

 

I say just get a new Engine. hehehe.... Oh yah, sack of door ***** would be cool!! Good luck with your prob!

 

if theres a little bit of the remaining nolt coming out of the block just grab some visgrips and twist it out. worked for me.

 

Actually, the bolts that bolt the header to the head is factory spec'd to 33 ft/lbs

http://www.comptechusa.com/instructions/ins109.pdf

 

Search. "extracting stud" "broken stud" "stipped bolt"
-PHiZ

 

Interesting , the instructions that come with the JR header say 16ft/lbs:

https://www.mossketeers.com/gr...1.pdf