I installed an exedy 3puck (6 springs) set with a ACT flywheel, aluminum...when i blew my reverse on my trans...then i installed this set with a new trans but then the tranny ended up grinding after 2 months (my friend swored it was prefect, he even gave a return) but then i installed another tranny and it is starting to feel rough again like the other tranny. I dont want this one to grind too after awhile of driving....AND sometimes my catch point of the clutch drops very low...
WHY WOULD THE CATCH POINT CHANGE ALL OF A SUDDEN?? is it the clutch or something else.....i switched shift linkage but had no differences...help would be GREAT...thx

 

has anyone heard of or had this problem??? plz help

 

pucked clutchs do that. u have to get used to it

 

naw its not the puck, i ran a ACT 6 puck extreme for 2 years before all this started happening...i have never encounter this problem before...

 

Did you break in the clutch and flywheel before beating on it?

 

Rx - Urethane shift linkage bushings and synchromesh.

 

First question would be: How do you drive the car? Is the transmission under or overfilled? Is the transmission cable or hydraulically operated? if it is cable check your cable to see if there is any binding. If the transmission is fine for two months then it is not the trans(unless you have a little dark cloud that just doesn't go away). It is either a driver issue or other mechanical parts failure that has to do with the drivetrain.

 

Make sure your slave cyliunder and master cylinder are still okay and not leaking. HTey also might be leaking internally.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rtype16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure your slave cyliunder and master cylinder are still okay and not leaking. HTey also might be leaking internally.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Sounds like a clutch/slave problem.

 

i do drive my car ALOT but its not my driving, trust me....my master cylinder did leak but was changed before the lastest tranny was installed.
Since it feels rough like my other tranny, i havent been harsh to it...but a lot of my friends ALSO think its the slave but im not missing any liquid from the master cylinder..what can it be???

 

Teh slave and the master can leak internally and the fluid level will not change.

 

coo ill change the slave but one more question....with the clutch pedal down, and i put the car in gear and take it back out...then i release the clutch, it makes a "cluck" nosie and i feel a little movement in the shifter..any idea...tahnks for the info

 

When you say it could be leaking internally how can you find out?? my 2nd and 3rd gears grind every once and a while and i've noticed that my clutch seems to get stuck like 1/3 sometimes and pops out late.. i've bled my lines too..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSlowR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say it could be leaking internally how can you find out?? my 2nd and 3rd gears grind every once and a while and i've noticed that my clutch seems to get stuck like 1/3 sometimes and pops out late.. i've bled my lines too..</TD></TR></TABLE>

My brake master cylinder is leaking internally. The way I can tell is by sitting on a hill and holding in the brake pedal. After about 2 minutes the pedal has sunk all the way to the floor and the brakes will no longer hold. I am not losing any fluid though. I guess to test the clutch system, turn your car on, put it in gear [do this on a flat place] and hold the clutch in. If after any amount of time the car starts to grab the clutch, you have a leak, and if you're not losing any fluid, it is an internal leak.

 

and what is required to fix this problem??

 

Rebuild or replacement.

 

both have been replaced...i used a jdm itr master cylinder...thats fine right? they are the same right? but my problem is still there...can it be the ACT lighten flywheel?

 

im going to change out my whole clutch soon...i couldnt go in 4th at rev over 8000rpm....that suck ***....wasted money at test n tune