12v Switched Power Source
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Wheres a good spot to get a 12v switched (accessory) power source from? I know theres one switched 12v power source plug on the fuse box. But I need a few sources for various things (gauges, sensors etc).
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From: Buffalo, NY
Would I have to T off a wire there? I need a super clean power source for a wideband controller that is hypersensative to power and ground.
If you are talking about T taps, then no. Don't ever use those for anything, they cut almost completely through the wire. Always solder your connections, this is what the MECP recomends.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are talking about T taps, then no. Don't ever use those for anything, they cut almost completely through the wire. Always solder your connections, this is what the MECP recomends.</TD></TR></TABLE>
T taps suck ***
T taps suck ***
You can set up your own switched relay. I was in the exact situation (I needed power for 8+ accessories. I just went to an electronics shop and picked up a couple of multi-output relays and used the accessory voltage for the switch. Came out very clean. Let me know if you need pics.
Hate to tell you but all that power comes off the same source anyhow. Not to mention your ignition line in the steering column is going to be one of the bigger ignition lines you'll find in your car and be able to handle the load better
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would I have to T off a wire there? I need a super clean power source for a wideband controller that is hypersensative to power and ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would I have to T off a wire there? I need a super clean power source for a wideband controller that is hypersensative to power and ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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if 'clean power' is the issue here, going to the IGN harn should be fine. He can use ACC and IGN from there as triggers for the relays that send the 'clean power'.
and as above: t taps suck ***.
and as above: t taps suck ***.
the 12v accessory wire for a 2000 gsr is the yellow wire in your ignition harness. this is the best place to get your power from. dont use and kind of crimp connectors. be sure to splice, solder, and tape it! ground the **** to the chassis.
OK so say I have 2 gauges and an aftermarket ignition, can I tap all 3 accessories into the same yellow 12v accessory wire on the ignition harness without having to worry about starting my car on fire because of a wire getting too hot? Anybody with experience installing numerous accessories please let me know the best way to get a switched 12v source for say 3-5 accessories. Thanks in advance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK so say I have 2 gauges and an aftermarket ignition, can I tap all 3 accessories into the same yellow 12v accessory wire on the ignition harness without having to worry about starting my car on fire because of a wire getting too hot? Anybody with experience installing numerous accessories please let me know the best way to get a switched 12v source for say 3-5 accessories. Thanks in advance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The absolute best way is to run a 12ga or 10ga ,[depending on load] right from batt. [with fuse at batt] to a 25/30 amp SPST relay and use acc. or ign2 to trigger relay, then you can safely draw up to 25 amps off relay.
If all you need is less then, say 8 amps you can get that at ign. harness, just unplug ,pop out acc.,ign.,or ign.2 metal pin ,open one of the insulation grips,strip and pre tin wire, clamp down to metal pin with grip, solder wire to pin,and reinstall pin into plastic plug. "clean" and no cutting or stripping oem wireing and no Ttaps
hope this helps.
94
The absolute best way is to run a 12ga or 10ga ,[depending on load] right from batt. [with fuse at batt] to a 25/30 amp SPST relay and use acc. or ign2 to trigger relay, then you can safely draw up to 25 amps off relay.
If all you need is less then, say 8 amps you can get that at ign. harness, just unplug ,pop out acc.,ign.,or ign.2 metal pin ,open one of the insulation grips,strip and pre tin wire, clamp down to metal pin with grip, solder wire to pin,and reinstall pin into plastic plug. "clean" and no cutting or stripping oem wireing and no Ttaps
hope this helps.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The absolute best way is to run a 12ga or 10ga ,[depending on load] right from batt. [with fuse at batt] to a 25/30 amp SPST relay and use acc. or ign2 to trigger relay, then you can safely draw up to 25 amps off relay.
If all you need is less then, say 8 amps you can get that at ign. harness, just unplug ,pop out acc.,ign.,or ign.2 metal pin ,open one of the insulation grips,strip and pre tin wire, clamp down to metal pin with grip, solder wire to pin,and reinstall pin into plastic plug. "clean" and no cutting or stripping oem wireing and no Ttaps
hope this helps.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just use the accessory feed from your radio to switch your relay on and off.
The absolute best way is to run a 12ga or 10ga ,[depending on load] right from batt. [with fuse at batt] to a 25/30 amp SPST relay and use acc. or ign2 to trigger relay, then you can safely draw up to 25 amps off relay.
If all you need is less then, say 8 amps you can get that at ign. harness, just unplug ,pop out acc.,ign.,or ign.2 metal pin ,open one of the insulation grips,strip and pre tin wire, clamp down to metal pin with grip, solder wire to pin,and reinstall pin into plastic plug. "clean" and no cutting or stripping oem wireing and no Ttaps
hope this helps.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just use the accessory feed from your radio to switch your relay on and off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyzbus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just use the accessory feed from your radio to switch your relay on and off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is acc. and ign.2 on fuse box, no need to go to radio.
94
Just use the accessory feed from your radio to switch your relay on and off.</TD></TR></TABLE>There is acc. and ign.2 on fuse box, no need to go to radio.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wheres a good spot to get a 12v switched (accessory) power source from? I know theres one switched 12v power source plug on the fuse box. But I need a few sources for various things (gauges, sensors etc).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the battery
</TD></TR></TABLE>the battery
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The absolute best way is to run a 12ga or 10ga ,[depending on load] right from batt. [with fuse at batt] to a 25/30 amp SPST relay and use acc. or ign2 to trigger relay, then you can safely draw up to 25 amps off relay.
If all you need is less then, say 8 amps you can get that at ign. harness, just unplug ,pop out acc.,ign.,or ign.2 metal pin ,open one of the insulation grips,strip and pre tin wire, clamp down to metal pin with grip, solder wire to pin,and reinstall pin into plastic plug. "clean" and no cutting or stripping oem wireing and no Ttaps
hope this helps.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, but I have one more question for you then. Do I need to get a seperate relay for each accessory or can I run all of my accessories off the same relay as long as they don't draw more than 25 amps? I'm not real familiar with relays so if someone could maybe draw me up some sort of diagram it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
The absolute best way is to run a 12ga or 10ga ,[depending on load] right from batt. [with fuse at batt] to a 25/30 amp SPST relay and use acc. or ign2 to trigger relay, then you can safely draw up to 25 amps off relay.
If all you need is less then, say 8 amps you can get that at ign. harness, just unplug ,pop out acc.,ign.,or ign.2 metal pin ,open one of the insulation grips,strip and pre tin wire, clamp down to metal pin with grip, solder wire to pin,and reinstall pin into plastic plug. "clean" and no cutting or stripping oem wireing and no Ttaps
hope this helps.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks, but I have one more question for you then. Do I need to get a seperate relay for each accessory or can I run all of my accessories off the same relay as long as they don't draw more than 25 amps? I'm not real familiar with relays so if someone could maybe draw me up some sort of diagram it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2ndchancehonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be sure to splice, solder, and tape it! ground the **** to the chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>
never use tape to cover a connection, thats just ghetto. use heat shrink tubing.
never use tape to cover a connection, thats just ghetto. use heat shrink tubing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
never use tape to cover a connection, thats just ghetto. use heat shrink tubing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are splicing in to a source and not cutting things, you can't use heat shrink. Just make sure to use a quality tape (Scotch Super 33 and 88 are the only ones I trust) I know 3M did also come out with a super nice method of insulating connections, but I have only seen it from a rep and don't know the name of it.
never use tape to cover a connection, thats just ghetto. use heat shrink tubing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are splicing in to a source and not cutting things, you can't use heat shrink. Just make sure to use a quality tape (Scotch Super 33 and 88 are the only ones I trust) I know 3M did also come out with a super nice method of insulating connections, but I have only seen it from a rep and don't know the name of it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyzbus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are splicing in to a source and not cutting things, you can't use heat shrink. Just make sure to use a quality tape (Scotch Super 33 and 88 are the only ones I trust) I know 3M did also come out with a super nice method of insulating connections, but I have only seen it from a rep and don't know the name of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can still use heat shrink. Just splice the wire so you can run it parallel to the source wire.
Personally, I like to put tape over the heat shrink, but that is probably overkill.
You can still use heat shrink. Just splice the wire so you can run it parallel to the source wire.
Personally, I like to put tape over the heat shrink, but that is probably overkill.
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